Flashing "Check Flow"
- Thread starter Nickr
- Start date
Um, I don't see this (might be stupid). Could someone explain again how to remove the tri-sensor (yup, I got exactly the same problem, of course).
I went ahead and cleaned out the pool filter (which did need cleaning) and this seems to have restored flow properly, but with this error I want to try *some* of the troubleshooting here and cleaning the sensor seems the next best bet.
I went ahead and cleaned out the pool filter (which did need cleaning) and this seems to have restored flow properly, but with this error I want to try *some* of the troubleshooting here and cleaning the sensor seems the next best bet.
Thanks, got it.
Okay, the sensor doesn't appear to need cleaning, the pressure seems fine, and the cell is clean. I do note that, unlike some here, I get a salt reading when I check (it says 1400ppm and to add 150lbs). That seems to tell me that the sensor is fine (well, at least in terms of salt and connectivity). But still, no flow. The only thing I can't check from this thread is if the flow valve itself might be jammed open.
My valve (I guess) is in a *somewhat* opaque fitting right beneath the loop, but I can't see at all through it and thus can't check whether it's closing or not. The pipes are glued (obviously) but I can't tell if this fitting itself is -- would that normally be the case or should I be able to unscrew it by using a strap wrench around it? (I don't want to force anything here). Otherwise, is there any other way I can check to see if water is going through here and not through the loop? (I tried pushing a strap through but had no luck -- I can use a coat hanger if anyone thinks that's a good idea).
Other than the possibility of the valve being stuck open I'm kind of stumped here, so any and all suggestions would be welcomed.
Okay, the sensor doesn't appear to need cleaning, the pressure seems fine, and the cell is clean. I do note that, unlike some here, I get a salt reading when I check (it says 1400ppm and to add 150lbs). That seems to tell me that the sensor is fine (well, at least in terms of salt and connectivity). But still, no flow. The only thing I can't check from this thread is if the flow valve itself might be jammed open.
My valve (I guess) is in a *somewhat* opaque fitting right beneath the loop, but I can't see at all through it and thus can't check whether it's closing or not. The pipes are glued (obviously) but I can't tell if this fitting itself is -- would that normally be the case or should I be able to unscrew it by using a strap wrench around it? (I don't want to force anything here). Otherwise, is there any other way I can check to see if water is going through here and not through the loop? (I tried pushing a strap through but had no luck -- I can use a coat hanger if anyone thinks that's a good idea).
Other than the possibility of the valve being stuck open I'm kind of stumped here, so any and all suggestions would be welcomed.
The semi-transparent spring check valve at the bottom of an Auto Pilot manifold is glued in. Those valves almost never fail, though once in a very long while they get some debris stuck in them which hold the valve open.
JasonLion said:
And then what do you do?
I'm not saying that's my problem, but if it IS (or at least part of my problem) I'm not sure how I'd fix it.
I tried a coat hanger just to see if I could even tell if the valve was open or not but didn't seem to have any luck. And since *everything* is glued into the pipe I would suspect the only way to proceed is to start cutting (which is NOT going to happen for me -- I guess that's the old "time for a new Timex" sort of thing)
Usually, when there is debris in the spring check valve you can flush it out by blocking the flow to the cell. You can do that by wrapping the strainer in plastic wrap. That increases the flow through the check valve significantly and will usually clean it out.
Typically the plastic is see through enough that you can tell what you are doing when using a coat hanger. It is just barely possible to poke around in there if you can see what you are doing, nearly impossible when you can't see.
Typically the plastic is see through enough that you can tell what you are doing when using a coat hanger. It is just barely possible to poke around in there if you can see what you are doing, nearly impossible when you can't see.
Howdy all, I'm new to the site great info,
I just downloaded the "pin-out" document, & went through the continuity & resistance checks of the tri-sensor and the harness.
No problems found there, I don't think lack of flow is a real issue as the pool vacuum (Kreepy Krawley) is still able to crawl the bottom, and up the sides; when I have had true flow problems in the past that does not happen.
Just to be sure I did tear down my pump, I saw some scoring in the case ring & impeller wear that wasn't bad but since I had a spare of each I changed those, slight improvement (negligible) to what I was seeing before I swapped case & impeller.
Backwash flow seems good in the waste/flush mode from the sand filter, there is some cavitation in the pump when in vacuum mode with bottom drain closed and skimmer suction only; the pump filter basket almost runs dry and the pump pulls very hard through that, there is also a lot of aeration in the pump's filter cover, I have found a few fitting leaks which I will be correcting tomorrow in daylight hours on suction fittings to the pump, possibly flow is being compromised by that to some degree primarily the valve stem packing gland for the bottom suction valve cut out seems to be sucking air a little, I'm hoping that fixes what is going on.
If I correct all the suspect fittings & I still have low flow alarm, what next a circuit board, any known tests to verify for the board ???
When checking the cell the salinity probes are very black, would poor conductivity in those cause low flow light?
Lastly when system is aligned for recirc or normal filter, I can see through the body of the lower crossover, and I can see that the check valve is unseating a little 1/8"-3/16" near as I can best tell, is this normal?
My apologies for being long winded but I wanted to cover all bases of what I have checked so far, oh BTW screen and & the cell itself are clear.
Tim
Pool specs 17' x 35' oval in-ground 8' deep end approx 22K of water in pool, Pool Pilot DIG-220 SWG installed March 2007, Triton TR60 sand filter, Water Ace RSP10 pump 220v/1Hp 1yr old
I just downloaded the "pin-out" document, & went through the continuity & resistance checks of the tri-sensor and the harness.
No problems found there, I don't think lack of flow is a real issue as the pool vacuum (Kreepy Krawley) is still able to crawl the bottom, and up the sides; when I have had true flow problems in the past that does not happen.
Just to be sure I did tear down my pump, I saw some scoring in the case ring & impeller wear that wasn't bad but since I had a spare of each I changed those, slight improvement (negligible) to what I was seeing before I swapped case & impeller.
Backwash flow seems good in the waste/flush mode from the sand filter, there is some cavitation in the pump when in vacuum mode with bottom drain closed and skimmer suction only; the pump filter basket almost runs dry and the pump pulls very hard through that, there is also a lot of aeration in the pump's filter cover, I have found a few fitting leaks which I will be correcting tomorrow in daylight hours on suction fittings to the pump, possibly flow is being compromised by that to some degree primarily the valve stem packing gland for the bottom suction valve cut out seems to be sucking air a little, I'm hoping that fixes what is going on.
If I correct all the suspect fittings & I still have low flow alarm, what next a circuit board, any known tests to verify for the board ???
When checking the cell the salinity probes are very black, would poor conductivity in those cause low flow light?
Lastly when system is aligned for recirc or normal filter, I can see through the body of the lower crossover, and I can see that the check valve is unseating a little 1/8"-3/16" near as I can best tell, is this normal?
My apologies for being long winded but I wanted to cover all bases of what I have checked so far, oh BTW screen and & the cell itself are clear.
Tim
Pool specs 17' x 35' oval in-ground 8' deep end approx 22K of water in pool, Pool Pilot DIG-220 SWG installed March 2007, Triton TR60 sand filter, Water Ace RSP10 pump 220v/1Hp 1yr old
The flow proof is a switch. If you put a jumper across the flow switch wires (pins 1 & 2) the low flow light should go out. If it doesn't then the board or cabling from the switch to the board is bad. To eliminate the cabling put a jumper between the middle pins (1 & 2) in the molex connector on the board. If you still get a low flow indication the board is bad.
CAUTION: DO NOT run the unit with the flow switch jumped except a few seconds for testing.
CAUTION: DO NOT run the unit with the flow switch jumped except a few seconds for testing.
Flashing red light, clean cell, check flow problem solved, underlying problem from the Autopilot DIG 220 power supply:
I had above problem, which made me check the main board on the power supply . I saw there were 5 electrolytic capacitors blown. They were bulged and black electrolyte was oozing out on top. I checked a pool company for the replacement board, there are none, one has to buy the DIG 220 complete box for $600.
If you look at the board once you removed the casing and the metal protection cage, you see 5 capacitors on the left about 1.2cm in diameter (.7 inch), the value is 1000uF/50V. There is a 6th one on the right side, that is probably ok, was in my case. I took the board out. First you have to disconnect it, I always make photos before I do that, but in this case the connections are clearly marked, so no panic in case you forget. There are not only the screws holding the motherboard, there is also a bigger one , which holds a rectifier in place and, I think there were 8, to hold the transistors on top to the cooling strip.
Once you have removed the board, get the 5 capacitors ($6 from RadioShack or $2 on eBay). But don't get any lower voltage!!!, make sure they can withstand 80 deg C, or 135 F, and a soldering iron for less than $594 incl. the solder. (that's just the economist talking). Remove the old ones and put the new ones in. Just make sure the polarity is correct, + is marked on the board. If you get ones with both connectors on one side that's better, If you get them with the connectors on opposing sides , no problem, you have to cut off a piece of the connector of the side which goes on the board and extend the one now on top with the cut off piece to reach the board. Or you put the capacitor in polarity wise on the wrong side, clip it off 4mm from the capacitor, turn it around and put it in the right way and solder the now longer piece to the leftover already soldered in. (just the technician talking). Put everything back in place and reconnect the board and sell the soldering iron on eBay.
Now as a last item check if the 2 fans on top come on, if that's not the case this might have been the problem in the first place. Check the voltage on the connector of the fan or inspect them visually (if the voltage is there that means the fans are bad) If you see the cables to the fans are rotten of on the solder point on the fan, that means they are bad.
Now you can either replace the fans ($5x2 on eBay 12V 1W ) if you replace go up to 1.5W - or what I did, throw them away, get one 120 or 140mm fan for a PC cut an opening in the plastic cover under the flap and put the fan there, the voltage is 12V no problem there. Then cut the sides of the flap that the air has a way in. That keeps the unit really cool. Remove also the mounting plate of the original fans.
I can also provide photos, but I think it's pretty clear. Both clean cell, and check flow didn't come on again (unless the pump just started or the cell is really bad)
I had above problem, which made me check the main board on the power supply . I saw there were 5 electrolytic capacitors blown. They were bulged and black electrolyte was oozing out on top. I checked a pool company for the replacement board, there are none, one has to buy the DIG 220 complete box for $600.
If you look at the board once you removed the casing and the metal protection cage, you see 5 capacitors on the left about 1.2cm in diameter (.7 inch), the value is 1000uF/50V. There is a 6th one on the right side, that is probably ok, was in my case. I took the board out. First you have to disconnect it, I always make photos before I do that, but in this case the connections are clearly marked, so no panic in case you forget. There are not only the screws holding the motherboard, there is also a bigger one , which holds a rectifier in place and, I think there were 8, to hold the transistors on top to the cooling strip.
Once you have removed the board, get the 5 capacitors ($6 from RadioShack or $2 on eBay). But don't get any lower voltage!!!, make sure they can withstand 80 deg C, or 135 F, and a soldering iron for less than $594 incl. the solder. (that's just the economist talking). Remove the old ones and put the new ones in. Just make sure the polarity is correct, + is marked on the board. If you get ones with both connectors on one side that's better, If you get them with the connectors on opposing sides , no problem, you have to cut off a piece of the connector of the side which goes on the board and extend the one now on top with the cut off piece to reach the board. Or you put the capacitor in polarity wise on the wrong side, clip it off 4mm from the capacitor, turn it around and put it in the right way and solder the now longer piece to the leftover already soldered in. (just the technician talking). Put everything back in place and reconnect the board and sell the soldering iron on eBay.
Now as a last item check if the 2 fans on top come on, if that's not the case this might have been the problem in the first place. Check the voltage on the connector of the fan or inspect them visually (if the voltage is there that means the fans are bad) If you see the cables to the fans are rotten of on the solder point on the fan, that means they are bad.
Now you can either replace the fans ($5x2 on eBay 12V 1W ) if you replace go up to 1.5W - or what I did, throw them away, get one 120 or 140mm fan for a PC cut an opening in the plastic cover under the flap and put the fan there, the voltage is 12V no problem there. Then cut the sides of the flap that the air has a way in. That keeps the unit really cool. Remove also the mounting plate of the original fans.
I can also provide photos, but I think it's pretty clear. Both clean cell, and check flow didn't come on again (unless the pump just started or the cell is really bad)
I just replaced the 5 capacitors and my system is now working!!!! Thank you ocnflite!!!! I bought 8 capacitors for $7.00 instead of paying nearly $700 for the new control unit. I already had a good solder iron. If you're having this problem definitely take a look at the capacitors on the board. Three of mine had the dreaded black gunk on their tops. I am one happy dude!
I joined the forum because the problem "Flashing Check Flow" is bothering me in the last 2 days. I checked the flow and it is good. I have not removed the tri-sensor yet but I will do it tomorrow. I am wondering about the possibility of the Magic Lube that I applied on the 2 O-rings of the manifold 10 days ago could have damaged in some way the tri-sensor? Is there any way I can clean it before I replace it? Thank you for any advice.
Hi guys, i have a problem with my autopilot digital 220. i keep getting the message check flow, i did a few things: first i checked all the skimmer basket, cleaned the filter, the manifold screen,etc. im getting great pressure with no bubbles. i read where to check the capacitors and sure three had black stuff coming out the top, i replaced them, also the fans dont come on, i replace them but its still not coming on, any help will greatly be appreciated. I also tested the connector on the main unit for the tri sensor and get no charge or continuity. so what can go bad to cause this. thanks