1st Testing with TF100...

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dirk.melvin

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LifeTime Supporter
May 2, 2015
15
Forney, TX
Ok, got my TF100 today...just got through testing...here are my numbers:
Salt = 3200
CL = 3
Br = 6
Ph = 8
FC = 3.5
CC = 0?
TC = 3.5?
CH = 225
TA = 100
CYA = 55? it was between the 60 and 50...closer to the 50



So pool math says to do the following:

20oz of 6% bleach (I never noticed % on any bleach I had bought for laundry...)
30oz of Muratic Acid
97oz of liquid stabilizer

Do I do these in that order?
Can I add any/all of these at the same time? wait 4 hours between each? (typical the pool store tells us to wait 4 hours between everything) 24hours?
Would superchlorinate of my SWG work instead of bleach? and for how long? Default is 1hour.
 
Fantastic getting your TF-100! SO here's what I see:
- Testing order no such a big deal. Applying chemical in the right order sometime. Yo do NOT have to wait 4 hrs as the PD says - typically 30 min. :)
- Not bad numbers, but definitely get that PH down a bit. See the recommended levels chart (below) and use Poolmath.
- As you mentioned, bump-up the FC with liquid bleach until your SWG is dialed-in to take on the load by itself. Always refer to the Chlorine/CYA Chart (below)

Personally, I would use liquid bleach to augment the start-up of your SWG versus exhausting it. Once it's higher, then you can back-off of the bleach.

When it comes to chlorine testing, we really just need to see: FC and CC. You'll test that the most - each day.

- - - Updated - - -

You can use liquid stabilizer if you want but it costs much more than the granule type. Up to you though.
 
If you have the liquid CYA, use it. Otherwise, the granular is cheaper.

Allow 30 minutes between any chemical additions. The sole exception is granular CYA, since it dissolves slowly. You could speed it up if you make a lap around the pool brushing to get some cross-currents going. I wouldn't bother with bleach, just crank up the % on the SWG. You're still above minimum FC for a SWG pool.
 
Welcome Dirk,

Don't add the liquid stabilizer. Powdered is much cheaper. 6% is the default, and most Bleach is now 8.25%. Most regular store brand bleach now has that strength and it's all you need. Not the stuff that says easy pour, or scented. No need for name brands like Clorox either. Are you just trying to reach a good FC level while waiting on your SWG to get going or is it broken? If you add these products, 30 minutes is enough to wait between additions. You add the stabilizer in a sock, either hung in front of a return, or toss the filled sock in your skimmer. You can do that any time, and there is no proper order for the bleach or acid first.
 
Great! I just added my acid. Need to get the bleach. And a have a 4lb bag if granule stabilizer that was given to me.

I know I have read about a sock before, but is this a 'special' sock? Just some pantyhose? What are the options?

I have 2 bottles if phosfree we bought from the PD at first, is that just a waste? Or can we use it for something?

Something of note, we have seen quite a few of these little bus in our pool, especially the deep end closer to the light. Small, brown, can dart away quickly, haven't been able to catch any in a jar/cup. What are they? why are they here? How do we prevent them?




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Phosfree is a good profit center for the pool store. Guaranteed it will turn your filter media into glue you'll have to scrub off after disassembly.

The sock is any old tube sock or nylon without holes. If it all fits in the skimmer without blocking flow, great. If not, look for the images in Recovering my old inspirational links for other methods.

I have no clue what the bugs are.
 

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dirk.melvin said:
Ok today's numbers...all I have so far is add the acid that was about 3 hours ago:
FC 3
CC 0
TA 90
CH 175
Cl 3
Br 6 does this matter for me?
pH 7.5


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Click to expand...
Nope. The Cl-BR test doesn't even need to be run if you're using the FAS-DPD chlorine test. And if you do use it, just report the CL since you're not using Bromine sanitizer. That's mostly in hot tubs.
 
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