Help! Wife wanting me to go to the pool store!

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TW Pool

TW Pool

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Mar 21, 2015
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The Woodlands, Texas
Hi all. I have be a brand new IG gunite pool. We got water in a week ago and I've been brushing and everything to get it ready for swimming. About 3 days ago, we received a ton of rain in the Houston area which turned my water cloudy. To this point, we had no chlorine in the pool due to startup. On day 5 of startup (after 1 big day of rain), I added 10% liquid chlorine "shock" to get FC in the pool and avoid algae. I've maintained numbers with pump running the since startup (with filter cleans) but I can't kick the haze.

Current numbers are:

PH 7.2 (I've walked this down from >8.2 at fill and it likes to rise on me. Trying to keep the PH a little low early on to help me clean off the Wet Edge pebble dust.)
FC 5
CC 0
CH 350 (I've walked this up from 50 at fill)
TA 100 (I've walked this down from 310 at fill)
CYA Haven't tests lately. Was at 0. Added a sock in each skimmer with a few pounds on there, but I understand this can take up to a week to register.

There is no discoloration to the pool - simply not clear. It was crystal clear until the rain got after it. Now, I can't even see my drains in the deep end of our 7' pool.

Any thoughts? I want to nip this one quickly before the wife hires a pool guy. Thanks!
 
Hello! Because you have a new pool, please make sure you review this thread: Pool School - Start-up New Plaster

You also want to make sure you keep good notes on everything you do in the early stages and follow your PB's instructions to not void any warranty on your new plaster.
 
Richard, target was CYA. Pool math suggested adding 8# of stabilizer. I could only get 2# in each of 2 socks, so I will be adding the other 4 over the next week as I continue to test. I added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine at the onset of the clouds. It took my FC from 0 to 7 in a hurry. I have dropped to 5 in a day. However, I'm thinking this haze isn't an algae and am considering getting a pool store chemical to remove clouds.

Texas, I've been all over it. I also have detailed notes of chemical levels and what has been added. My plaster company recommended TA at 80-100ppm, PH at 7.2-7.4 and CH at 180PPM for the first 4 days. On day 5, they suggest getting FC to an ideal range (1-3) and CYA not to exceed 50. At this point they also suggest getting TA (80-120), PH (7.4-7.6) and CH (2-400) to ideal ranges as well.

Nothing seems to be speaking to the unclear water though...
 
The one thing that jumps-put at me in your recent note is about the FC range "the builder" suggested as ideal. Just be careful about that since many people outside of TFP don't understand the relationship between FC and CYA as noted on the TFP Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below).

I would resist the temptation to buy any products from the pool store since they typically don't work or only serve as a Band-Aid fix. As Richard noted above, implement a SLAM (link below). Even though your CYA is still very low or just trying to build, maintaining the FC level at a SLAM level might be just what your water needs.

Say, one last question because I didn't see it above anywhere .... what test kit are you using?
 
TW Pool said:
Richard, target was CYA. Pool math suggested adding 8# of stabilizer. I could only get 2# in each of 2 socks, so I will be adding the other 4 over the next week as I continue to test.
Click to expand...
What "goal" number were you using for the CYA that it told you to add 8 pounds?

In a manually chlorinated pool you want to start at around 40 and move it up if yo have too much loss to the sun. If you go to CYA 40, the absolute minimum FC is 3 and I would target 5.
 
Test kit is TF100 with Speed Stir. I guess I didn't include that in my signature. I will add it.

Tim, I have 40 as the goal on CYA coming from 0. It says to add 123oz by weight. That is ~8#. I picked 40 because the pool math calculator suggests 30-50, so I figured I would target in the middle. Also, the Pool Math suggests FC of 1-3.
 
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