Did the water start a deep pink after adding the powder?
The FAS-DPD should never really go grey.
The FAS-DPD should never really go grey.
Now we have algae in the stupid pool!
- Thread starter DMS2014
- Start date
100 drops and STILL gray!
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water turned a dark purple
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10 ml from 1 foot down
added the powder.
dark purple
started adding drops - up to 100 now! and the water is a light gray-ish color
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the instructions say to add until it's back to completely clear. it's not clear. it's light gray
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water turned a dark purple
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10 ml from 1 foot down
added the powder.
dark purple
started adding drops - up to 100 now! and the water is a light gray-ish color
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the instructions say to add until it's back to completely clear. it's not clear. it's light gray
You should add the drops until the pink is gone ... I agree that mine sometimes is not 100% clear at this point.
It would be very unlikely for your FC to be > 50ppm.
It would be very unlikely for your FC to be > 50ppm.
150 drops and still light gray!
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seriously? the directions say until and I quote: "back to completely clear"!!!!
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seriously? the directions say until and I quote: "back to completely clear"!!!!
Please stop. Your FC is not > 75ppm.
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At this point you have more reagent than water and that is discoloring the water.
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At this point you have more reagent than water and that is discoloring the water.
clear is clear not gray. if pink should be gone , the instructions should say that! they don't.
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I am just following the darn instructions!
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I have read the instructions step by step. clear to me is clear not gray. if I go until it turns not pink, I can do that but that's not what the directions said!
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I am just following the darn instructions!
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I have read the instructions step by step. clear to me is clear not gray. if I go until it turns not pink, I can do that but that's not what the directions said!
Well, whatever.
Often the vial gets slightly stained which makes the water not look clear.
Did you bother watching the YouTube videos for the tests at tftestkits.net?
Often the vial gets slightly stained which makes the water not look clear.
Did you bother watching the YouTube videos for the tests at tftestkits.net?
Did, I "bother" no, not yet. I was following the step-by-step instructions written on the test kit. "Count each drop until the solution turns back to completely clear." That didn't seem too complicated to me.
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22 drops to no pink. moving on.
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22 x 0.5 = 11
3 drops x 0.5 = 1.5 CC
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22 drops to no pink. moving on.
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22 x 0.5 = 11
3 drops x 0.5 = 1.5 CC
Now do the pH and CYA test as they are the only ones that influence the path forward.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
ok, deep breath and exhale, smile...
Now watch this and see if your doing the same thing, does it turn pink?
FAS/DPD Chlorine test for the TF-100 - YouTube
Now watch this and see if your doing the same thing, does it turn pink?
FAS/DPD Chlorine test for the TF-100 - YouTube
yep. turned pink altho notes say red for the TA test. I got TA of 100.
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okay. I think I need to watch a video on the CYA thing bc here I don't understand the intstructions - "the gradation closest to the fill level indicates your CYA reading."
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where do I find that video?
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okay. I think I need to watch a video on the CYA thing bc here I don't understand the intstructions - "the gradation closest to the fill level indicates your CYA reading."
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where do I find that video?
I'm assuming that means. Whenever the black dot dissapeers the closer the meniscus is to whichever line
is closer. If it's closer to 40 than 30 then it would be 40 But I have the Taylor k2006
is closer. If it's closer to 40 than 30 then it would be 40 But I have the Taylor k2006
well, not being literal - like pink/red and gray/clear, I think I did it right.
so I think my CYA is 50.
Next is my pH
doing that now.
so I think my CYA is 50.
Next is my pH
doing that now.
Do you have the squeez bottle for CYA? Add 7 mils of water and then fill to 14 with CYA indicator
shake for 30 seconds. Add to fill tube with black dot and when the dot dissappears look on tube at level and that's your CYA reading. That's how mine works
shake for 30 seconds. Add to fill tube with black dot and when the dot dissappears look on tube at level and that's your CYA reading. That's how mine works
i used the rest of what was left and did the test tube again. this time I got right between 40 and 50 on it...
- May 4, 2011
- 634
Definitely watch the video for the CYA test. You can also order a 50ppm CYA solution from TFTestkits to determine how to properly perform the test.
Edit -- sounds like you might want to call it 45 and proceed.
Edit -- sounds like you might want to call it 45 and proceed.
Okay. So this is my first test final:
Chlorine 11
CC is 1.5
So if I add those up I get 12.5 for FC?
Then I got 45, I guess, on CYA. I couldnt find the video for that.
pH? Well, it looks a touch high but the directions say between 7.2-7.8 I think we are there. the Cl/Br (yellow side) is a brighter yellow than the 2-4 I think my husband told me was okay.
SOOOOO, does this look okay????
Chlorine 11
CC is 1.5
So if I add those up I get 12.5 for FC?
Then I got 45, I guess, on CYA. I couldnt find the video for that.
pH? Well, it looks a touch high but the directions say between 7.2-7.8 I think we are there. the Cl/Br (yellow side) is a brighter yellow than the 2-4 I think my husband told me was okay.
SOOOOO, does this look okay????
Not quite.
you have:
FC 11
CC 1.5
TC (which we do not care about) = 12.5
Call the CYA 50ppm.
The OTO is going to be brighter yellow because your TC is much greater than the 5ppm the test maxes out at.
You need to be more specific with the pH ... you want it near 7.2 when you start the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process ... which you need to do to rid yourself of the algae.
you have:
FC 11
CC 1.5
TC (which we do not care about) = 12.5
Call the CYA 50ppm.
The OTO is going to be brighter yellow because your TC is much greater than the 5ppm the test maxes out at.
You need to be more specific with the pH ... you want it near 7.2 when you start the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process ... which you need to do to rid yourself of the algae.
Here is the link from Taylor for the CYA test Testing Pool/Spa Water for Cyanuric Acid Using Taylor’s K-2006 - YouTube