Bromine to saltwater conversion

Jun 16, 2015
3
ofallon/Missouri
I am new to this website and to owning a pool. I couldn't find anything on here that definitively answers my question nor do I know how to make a signature with my info so here it is. I have a 14000 gallon inground fiberglass bromine pool with a 1 hp pentair superflow pump I believe and a Cristal flow 2 sand filter. I live in a place with a very high water table in fact the previous owner must've drained to much water because one side of my pool is bowing in. I have 2 questions really I guess. The first is how can I convert from bromine to saltwater without draining the pool? the bromine is just to hard to deal with. I can never keep the level up and the water must be shocked all the time. Secondly my pool goes from 3ft to 8ft and has 2 jets on the shallow side with 1 skimmer on the deep end. It has a dedicated suction port on the side. I do we a drain near the bottom of the deep end but apparently it does not work because the other hole in the skimmer has been plugged which a pool company told me there must've been a leak or something. I think this is why my deep end turns bad so quickly because there just isn't enough circulation to turn the water over without that drain. Can this drain be fixed without tearing up all the concrete?
 
Welcome to TFP?

That's actually the second time this question has been asked today, but you really can't switch from bromine to chlorine without a water exchange. Just adding chlorine to the water reactivates the bromine in the water.

If water is plentiful & inexpensive in your area you may have to go through several partial exchanges to get the bromine level down far enough for the switch.
 
You cannot "shock" bromine to burn it off. Adding any oxidizer to a pool that has used bromine for a while, so likely has a larger bromide bank (i.e. has more sodium bromide salt in it) will simply create a lot of bromine in the water. However, it mostly gets broken down in sunlight back to bromide salt. Only a fairly small amount outgases. You'd have to have extraordinary amounts of aeration over a very long time to try at very high bromine levels to get the bromine out of the pool that way. The best way to remove the bromine/bromide is with water dilution.
 
Bromine is sensitive to UVB. Covering the pool with a solar blanket will reduce the amount of UVB and the sanitizer bromine level will be more stable. If you want to convert from bromine to chlorine you must replace the water. If the pool is warmer than the city water, than you can create a separation layer that is stable enough. Stop the pool pump. Submerge at the deep end a hose with a weight attached and fill the pool with this hose with fresh water. Drain the excess water from a skimmer. In order to make sure that you have no bromine left in the pool I suggest that you bring up the sanitizer level before draining and continue to drain until the water in the skimmer is cold and no sanitizer is present in the skimmer.
If your water circulation is deficient I think that converting from bromine to chlorine will not help at all. Areas with poor water flow will not have enough chlorine and the green monster will bite. I would first fix the water circulation and then reconsider to convert to chlorine. Best water flow is achived if the flow is equally divided between all exits in use (main drain, first skimmer, second skimmer, etc.).
 
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