I replaced the liner in my 27’ AG pool with 5’6” center depth this past Memorial Day and filled it with one garden hose through my home’s iron filter. Filled it at half throttle, 600 gallons between regenerations. It took two weeks to fill the 20,000 gallons in this pool. Added 144 oz. of Sequa-Sol sequestrant as it filled. Added no chlorine as it filled but added a couple of quarts of non-copper algaecide and began adjusting pH at 7.8 (½ gal. muriatic at a time) with a TA of 410ppm. Since then I’ve watched the pH closely and adjusted it when it reached 7.8. The TA is now 360ppm as of 6/15/15.
I started the system last Sunday 6/7/15, shocked the water and it went brown. During the week it cleared, I’ve been cleaning and swapping the 100 sq. ft. filter cartridges regularly upon a 10psi pressure rise and shocked it twice more in an effort to precipitate all of the iron out. Friday evening 6/12/15 I vacuumed it again, the water was clear and the pool clean. I began to run the erosion feeder at 0ppm FC with 3” tri-chlor pucks, the FC has been running around 5ppm since I started the feeder. No CYA in the pool yet other than residual from the tri-chlor pucks. Today, the water is clear but has a dark look to it. Iron or other mineral(s) is still precipitating and collecting on the walls. I vacuumed it again yesterday afternoon. Maybe I just need to be patient and let the filter work.
I plan to buy a test kit from you folks that I will use for my pool and customers’ pools. I service vinyl IG pools. In order to give me advice, what info do you need about my water? I’ve been using basic 5-bottle kits for years, those kits test for free and combined CL, pH, acid demand and TA. After reading posts and info in this forum I’m ashamed to admit that my CYA test kit has been sitting unused for the past 15 years and I doubt the accuracy in a 15 year old reagent. I gotta get with the program!
I'm leaning toward your TFP kit. What test kit would you recommend if you feel it's worth looking into minerals other than iron?