Rainbow 320 Problems

[rgswff]

I went on vacation so I put a couple of pucks in. I just got back after 4 days away and the pucks are still in there. They didn't dissolve. To check that water is actually filling up in there, I left the top off and turned on the pump. It filled with water. I also pulled the pucks out and checked the screen at the bottom and it was not clogged with anything. When I turn off the pump and open it, the water does drain out although about 1/2 the time, the water in the filter basket then gets cloudy until I turn the pump back on. Is this an indication something is installed wrong? Anything else I should check?






I took the lid off to make it easier to see the cloudy water.


I've got another vacation in a few weeks and want to make sure the rainbow 320 is working right so I don't get an algae outbreak while I'm gone. Figure I got lucky this time as I came back to .5 FC but 0 CC but don't want to push my luck.

 

[tim5055]

I would think that with a new pool build that would be under warranty??

Is that all you chlorinate with? Are you keeping track of your CYA?

 

[rgswff]

I contacted my pb and he is going to come by to check it out. My current CYA is about 35. I only use the IC and pucks when I am gone for several days. Normally, have been using bleach.

 

[JohnT]

Is there a check valve between the chlorinator and the filter?

 

[rgswff]

I don't think there is one. Here is a picture of the setup.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Are the valves set like they normally are?
Where does that valve near the filter go?
The feed tubing going in to the top of the feeder may be plugged. Have you taken it off and made sure it's clean.

The dirty water backing into the pump basket looks like it's from the DE filter. Maybe because it has a little air in it. Do you purge it after you open the system?

 

[JohnT]

I don't much care for the way your setup is plumbed. It looks like the water can either be routed through your UV sanitizer or the chlorinator depending on how you set the valves, but no check valve to keep water from going from the chlorinator to the sanitizer or the filter when the pump is off. To get full flow to the chlorinator you'll want your flow to the UV off.

My thought would be you'd want everything through the UV, then a check valve and then go through the chlorinator as the last thing before the pool.

 

[rgswff]

Are the valves set like they normally are?
Where does that valve near the filter go?
The feed tubing going in to the top of the feeder may be plugged. Have you taken it off and made sure it's clean.

The dirty water backing into the pump basket looks like it's from the DE filter. Maybe because it has a little air in it. Do you purge it after you open the system?

The valves in the picture are how they normally are.
Valve near the filter? Not sure which one you are referring to.
I have taken the feed tubing off to make sure it is clean. I've also had the pump turned on with the IC open so I could make sure it is filling with water.
I do purge the system after cleaning out the pump basket. Do I need to do it when I open the IC also?

- - - Updated - - -

I don't much care for the way your setup is plumbed. It looks like the water can either be routed through your UV sanitizer or the chlorinator depending on how you set the valves, but no check valve to keep water from going from the chlorinator to the sanitizer or the filter when the pump is off. To get full flow to the chlorinator you'll want your flow to the UV off.

My thought would be you'd want everything through the UV, then a check valve and then go through the chlorinator as the last thing before the pool.

The pb is coming out today or tomorrow so I'll go over everything with him again. Didn't know enough about all this when it was first installed as only found this site after the build was completed. What if I keep the valve for the UV halfway open instead of fully open? Would that help? Should I press the pb to install a check valve before the chlorinator?

 

[Bama Rambler]

The flow restriction through the 320 is a lot greater than through the UV system, so if the valves are set like they are in the pictures, you could have very little to no flow through the 320 when it's running.

 

[rgswff]

The flow restriction through the 320 is a lot greater than through the UV system, so if the valves are set like they are in the pictures, you could have very little to no flow through the 320 when it's running.

That is what I am thinking may be happening. I went ahead and closed the valve going to the UV system this morning to see if that helps while I wait on the pb to come by later today or tomorrow.

 

[rgswff]

I had the valve to the UV system closed today. I've been running the pump for about 8 hours so far today. I just shut it off and opened the IC. The two pucks are still in there. they haven't dissolved at all. Can't figure out what is going on. The pb is having one of his guys come by tomorrow morning to check it out.

 

[carpainterinaz]

There is a check valve in the 90' elbow on the bottom of the black tube. Turn the dial on the chlorinator to off, take off the lid on the rainbow 320 let it air out for a few mins and start the pump. Turn the dial up to 2-3 watch the water enter from the top feed. When it starts to overflow the body screw down the lid, that will ensure the check valve is working and you have ample flow.
I was using the 320 day in day out for a year before I started the tfp method. Now all I use it for is to raise my cya a little when needed, and will for vacations.

 

[rgswff]

The pb came out and change some of the plumbing so that the water flows to the UV system and then to the IC as the last thing the water passes before heading back to the pool. It seems to be working fine now although just going to use it for the one or two summer trips I take.