MasterTemp Shutting down few seconds after flame/ignition: LED #5

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puffyshirt

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May 20, 2015
6
madison wi
Hi all,

spent the last several hours disassembling my MasterTemp 200 LP and trying to locate my issue. It seems to be ok for about 5-10 seconds. Blower kicks on, and then ignition, but then shuts down after a few seconds of heat.

There was a small nest in the air orifice, cleaned that out... cleaned the air tubes.. removed the orifice and stuck a shop vac hose in as far as I could. Hopefully the nest wasn't way inside the impeller!

The AGS diagnostic light is io (Led 5), which according to the manual shows the AGS, HLS could be bad.

However, other threads I searched have shown the Stack Flue sensor as a possibility????

What do you all think? Can I safely create a small jumper to bypass each to see if that helps or is that unsafe?

I am not sure if the exhaust is as strong as it should be, but I checked the exhaust, and don't see anything blocking.

Any help would be much appreciated! Pool Season is SO short here in Wisconsin, can't afford any down time.. and 74 degree water temp is not ideal!

thanks much all!
 
Trace the wires from the stack flue sensor all the way back to the board. In fact, check all the wires if you had a mouse/rat in there. If you think the blower isn't putting out enough air, you could be on the right track. Iv'e seen blowers that have done this. Check your stack flue temp while the heater is running to confirm flue temp is right or if it is high (blower).
 
Thanks all.

I took out the thermo regulator and it was pretty corroded.. in fact part of the copper was just gone. I put it back together without the part, and thought it would run fine if that was issue? Is that correct? Same issue even without the thermo.

I am concerned if that copper was disintegrated, the sheet coils could have a hole in them as well? Is there a way to check? I remember seeing something once about taking a bolt out to check for water where it shouldn't be?

My search continues.

Thanks again all.
 
If you remove the thermo regulator and run it, if that was the cause of the issue, the unit would continue to run.

I routinely check the regulator by turning the unit on and then holding the reg over the exhaust and watch to see if it opens. These units can run forever without one.

Have you pulled the high limit sensor and looked at that?

If you remove the lower bolt on the manifold/header where the water comes in and out and if water comes out of it, then the heat exchanger has been breached and the unit is pretty much done for..
 
All right guys

1) HLS -- No.. same issue after jumping it
2) AGS -- No. same issue after jumping it
3) Thermo - No. same issue after removing
4) Exchanger Breach - No. Removed Lower bolt on manifold and No water -- bolt was dry

So. What would you do next?

1) I still have an inkling the exhaust feels weak. The air seems to be coming around the 'edges' of the exhaust without a nice strong exhaust. However, this may be normal as I never paid attention when it was working.

So, can't see anything in the exhaust pipe. The orifice/entry looks clean, but obviously can't see the impeller. All the clear hoses have been removed and cleaned. They were clean already actually. So -- If I take all the screws out around the impeller case, does it come apart enough to check inside? Have not seen this mentioned so not sure what my options are to really check inside that mechanism

2) Remove the manifold and check the bypass valve

Easy enough, just time consuming I guess. How would I know what a bad valve looks like?

Thoughts?

Thanks again for all the opinions and ideas.
 
If you removed the thermo regulator, you can easily feel up inside the manifiold to check the bypass. You really shouldn't have to uninstall the manifold to check it.

There is a possibility that the control board is bad. Seeing as you have tried to bypassing all of the safeties you think could cause it and you still have an issue. I would tend to think if the blower motor was bad that you would get the AFS(air flow switch) LED lit up.

- - - Updated - - -

Pool Clown said:
Ummm, are you sure? I haven't been able to run one much past ~86 before it begins to cycle (scratches head)...
Click to expand...

I was pretty sure. It's been a awhile since I did it but next chance I get one I'll check it out.
 

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Save yourself some time, Check the stack flue temp!!!! Its easy...

Turn the heater on. Whichever thermostat you are using, pool or spa, hold that button down on the heater. After about 10 seconds, the display will show your flue temp. If the temp reaches 480 degrees, the board will shut off the heater. This wont mean that the board is bad, or the sensor is bad. It means that the temp inside the flue is getting too hot. Sooted exchanger, blower not moving enough air, water flow issue. Blower could be bad OR something stuck in it obstructing air flow (mice/rat).

Your mechanical by-pass failure will be apparent if you are looking for it. Think back to when you removed the thermostatic by-pass. Did it come out easily? or did it feel like it was hung up on something? When the mechanical bypass fails, it breaks. When it breaks it becomes deformed by the spring in it. The spring pushes the broken part into the thermostatic by-pass's spring and interferes with the removal if it.

Or, all you have to remember is...

A good mechanical by-pass will allow the thermostatic by-pass to literally fall out when the cap is unscrewed.
 
Pool clown,

cool tip. Tried that. Heater doesn't run flame long enough to get the temp past 140 or so. Smell is a little off.. like half burned propane or maybe its cooking some rat/mouse somewhere.

Additionally, the thermo regulator flew right out... so bypass may be fine.

Tomorrow I have a new board arriving to try that out.

Anyway, does anyone know how to check the impeller for additional debris? Up top i mentioned that there was a nest beyond the orifice, but not quite at the impeller. Makes me wonder if more is in there? Can I take all those screws out to get some separation to take a look?

But with the flue only reaching 140, I would think NO safety would be initiated at that temp.

Thanks much
 
I've never ventured inside the blower but there are about 7 or so screws that hold the two half's together. I would think you could remove them and split it apart to look inside.
 
Just this week one of my techs pulled the blower to find a mouse lodged between the blower outlet and the fire box, IOW, he went through the blower. I'll try to get the pic and post it, if anyone really wants to see it (or doesn't believe me).

Warning: Parental discretion advised.
 
All right gang.... finally -- RESOLUTION!

Bad control board. Had ordered a new one from Amazon and all is working now. First time i fired it up, ran for about a minute (vs. 15 seconds), and shut down for a few seconds, started up again.. .ran for a bit, shut down.... third time it started up, it has stayed running. Not sure why a few hiccups to start with, but all seems ok now.

Thanks much for all the help. Hopefully this thread helps others who may have an AGS issue .. well at least according to the 'led light'
 
This is one of those examples where you are led in one direction but the issue is in the other. I have the luck of when this happens I have the parts to swap out and try things to see what the issue is.

Glad you have it working now.
 
puffyshirt said:
All right guys

1) HLS -- No.. same issue after jumping it
2) AGS -- No. same issue after jumping it
3) Thermo - No. same issue after removing
4) Exchanger Breach - No. Removed Lower bolt on manifold and No water -- bolt was dry

So. What would you do next?

1) I still have an inkling the exhaust feels weak. The air seems to be coming around the 'edges' of the exhaust without a nice strong exhaust. However, this may be normal as I never paid attention when it was working.

So, can't see anything in the exhaust pipe. The orifice/entry looks clean, but obviously can't see the impeller. All the clear hoses have been removed and cleaned. They were clean already actually. So -- If I take all the screws out around the impeller case, does it come apart enough to check inside? Have not seen this mentioned so not sure what my options are to really check inside that mechanism

2) Remove the manifold and check the bypass valve

Easy enough, just time consuming I guess. How would I know what a bad valve looks like?

Thoughts?

Thanks again for all the opinions and ideas.
Click to expand...

I am going through the identical problem. I have tried nearly all you have discussed except for replacing the control board, but I want to try jumping all the safety switches first (don't want to spend the money unecessarily). Do I just short the sensor connector wires together, or what is the best way to jump them out?
 
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