pump motor sounds like a generator

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J

jokaankit

0
Jun 9, 2015
55
NY
Hi I have an AO Smith pump motor (1.5 HP single speed), with a Hayward pump and hayward S200 sand filter.
30,000 gallon in ground pool.

The motor has been with us for 8 years. Its also been used heavily due to algae filled pool (fixed already thanks to the forum :) The pump runs fine but as of last night sounds like a small gas electric generator. If anyone can offer any suggestions or needs any info like model numbers, pictures or maybe a video. Please let me know.

I have a second booster pump in new condition. I will post pictures of these pumps soon.
 
The extra pump I have is MAGNETEK booster pump. Part number 8-173840-20 .75HP pump 230/115V
Please suggest a new pump or suggestion for troubleshooting (the pump runs but the noise is unbearable).

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not very familiar with motors, so I would be more than happy to just buy a new one. Can you make any suggestions. I believe I currently have a 1HP pump. My budget is $100-$300. I've never opened or closed my pool, so this might be something I call to have installed. I would prefer to buy one myself with a warranty and such. My limited research indicated there are threaded and non threaded pumps, which I have yet to identify.
 
I don't think the booster pump motor would work as a replacement. Maybe someone else could clarify that for sure. Take a picture of the plate on it. The one you have is a 56J frame, model number B128. You can find that exact same motor for $170-180 online. A 2 speed goes up to about $275. Here's a link with some options. They have yours, an energy efficient version that uses a little less electricity, and the 2 speed that will use even less electricity on low. Swimming Pool Pump Motors * Spa Pump Pool Motor


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The booster pump motor appears to be a N56CZ frame. It looks like it has a longer shaft than your pool pump motor; at least that's how it looks from the pictures of the motors I saw. If you could make it work, you'd have to replace the impeller to match the lower hp.


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I would suggest trying to stretch your budget and get the 2 speed motor, it will let you run the pump on low speed most of the time and save on electricity (1/4 of the electricity for 1/2 the flow rate), this will typically pay for itself several times over during the life of the motor.
 
Hello, thanks for the advice. I will look into these two options further. I still have a question: Do i need to buy "threaded" only pump system. Or threaded motor if I want to use my existing pump filter.

I imagine my problem is actually the diffusor/impeller breaking because my basket broke while i was vacuuming to waste all the algae. I'm hoping I can get the noise down, while I'm waiting for the new pump.
 
Are you talking threaded as in the connections to and from the pump, or threaded as far as the end of the motor shaft? I thought you meant the motor shaft in your first post, and yours is threaded. I assumed they were all threaded, but I could be wrong. I suppose they could make them with a key or a set screw, but that would be a pain. Did a chunk of the basket get sucked into the impeller? That's a lot of algae to break a strainer basket. If a piece of the basket broke, it could be stuck in between the diffuser and impeller. They sure didn't leave you any room to work there, so when you have a few hours to burn you could take the pump out and pull it apart to verify whether the impeller has something in it.


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sorry I couldn't upload a picture of my setup. I didn't understand what was threaded at first, now I understand it's the shaft thanks. Though all the pvc connections to the pump are also threaded for removing during the winter.

Since the pump is so worn, I will have to take a look at the pump assembly to decide if I will replace the whole pump. So far only the basket is partialy cracked (it doesn't seem like they broke into the motor, only seperation).

I like the idea of buying a sensible product that will pay for itself in a couple years. However, without knowing what needs replacing I'm unsure of what I should buy. I hope I don't have to replace it all, but am looking forward to hearing your recommendations. I will post an update of the situation by Tuesday.

Thanks for the help n240 and Isaac.
 

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If the pump is still in good shape, and all you need is a basket, there's really no reason to replace it all unless you just want to. Your pump has threaded connections with unions on the pipe so you can remove it. Some come with union fittings on the pump where you just glue the end to the pipe and it screws onto the pump. I'm kind of in the same boat as you, though not with the urgency you have because of the noise. I'm trying to decide if I should pull the trigger on a 2 speed motor myself. The 1.5hp I'm looking at is $280 with an off brand for $220. It's hard money to spend when there's nothing wrong with your pump. It would save me $35 a month on my electric bill though.


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I got the intelliflo pump instead of spending an hour disconnecting the old motor and buying a new motor. Sounds like a waste, I know. And I truly appreciate your sensible advise n240. I imagine I will live here for another 4-6 years, and family likes the idea of pool jets :) Hopefully the $600 will be partially recouped over the years. Now to spend an hour filling rebates and mailing them :(

All the posts on the forum suggest this was a terrible decision (I have 1 and 1/2 inch piping on my current pump. Though the rest looks like 2 inch fittings.) I also have a small pool based on my calculation 15K gallons. Thanks again for the advise N240 and Isaac-1. I hope i haven't offended anyone by going against their advise (I know that bothers me sometimes). This was only a $300 difference and might mean more savings and enjoyment for friends and family.
 
Did have a question about the recommended plumbing for the suction side its 1.5"x 6-8" (sorry didn't measure it yet) length. The manual says 5x diameter for minimum length of straight pipe. So should I have the installer remove all the 1.5" from the multiport valve and 3 way/skimmer side and run short sections of 2" pipe w/ a new 2" union? I imagine thats better then using adaptor and extra unions. Though the run would still be very short, against pentair recommendation I believe.


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Space is tight and the sand filter can't move nor can the Pentair 3 way valve/skimmer line. I've ordered the special unions for the pump.

Custom Molded Products | 2 SCH80 CPVC Union Male Adaptor | Set of Two | 21063-200-000
 
It's not a hard fast rule about the length of straight pipe. Just a good practice to put a straight piece to reduce turbulence going into the pump. I'd stay with what you have there if you aren't moving stuff.


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:(
Installer told me the pump is going to need moving because the controller is blocked by the s-200 filter "return"? So its either going under the waste line closer to the house or between the chlorinator and return line. One estimate I got was to replace all the piping and swap to two inch everywhere except the multiport.

Im not sure which is the better option. All my lines are 1.5" in the ground, I don't see why changing the skimmer/drain line to 2" is useful, would putting an elbow and an adaptor be bad on the suction side.
 
That little bit of 2" should have little to no benefit when all your other line is 1.5". One more fitting shouldn't hurt anything. I was thinking from the beginning that it would be nice to rotate it out in front of the sand filter where you could get to it if you needed to.


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Welcome back everyone ;)

The pump was placed in front of the filter with 2" piping. It was connected with minimal turns and 10" of straight pipe.

Unfortunately, I noticed lose of prime and bubbles while running at medium to slow speed. I eventually singled the air leak to the grease port on the grey Pentair 3 way diverter. The screw/port has been filled in with silicone (rubber type) sealant. It looks like one of the pool guys lost the screw and packed it with what they had years ago. So far I have put a big dab of marine grease on top of the silicone. Any idea if I can find parts grease screw/cap?

If the prime lasts after I get back from work I'll see if I can make my own cover for the time being.

If its easier I could open it replace seals, lube and seal it with silicone again on the grease trap?
 
I just found out they made that type of valve within the last week. Apparently it was the predecessor of the neverlube valves. If it's one you can put a plug in, I'd use a little silicone and a plug to seal it up. Seems the other thread mentioned it was like 1/8" pipe thread. Could be wrong. Still somewhere to start.


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