Test Kit

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sealy99

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Jun 6, 2015
35
madisonville, tx
Test kit I have is from Leslie's Supply but made by Taylor. From looking at the pic, can anyone tell me what version of the Taylor Test Kit this is? Searching model #'s and UPC codes is not giving me anything. I have another on order but since it hasn't arrive yet and today's my day off, I need to get this pool figured out.
4d996c7a9f8676b0d0310b6720ae2fe5.jpg


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I don't know the model, but I believe this one is supposed to check FC, CC, PH, TA, and CH. Really, the only thing I would use it for is PH and TA. It won't come anywhere close to helping you with FC and CC readings you need - especially when referencing the Chlorine/CYA chart.
 
Are all of the yellow and red bottles the same thing? if so that looks like a professional kit designed to run the TC and pH tests several hundred times. Rather strange that they would sell something like that to a residential user, but that's Leslie's for you.

The tests you run with it will be accurate, but without the FAS-DPD test you are running in the dark about your FC and CC. Without accurate FC readings you run the risk of not SLAMing hard enough, or worse, SLAMing way too hard and damaging your pool. Your new kit will have that test, just hang in there.
 
Donldson said:
Are all of the yellow and red bottles the same thing? if so that looks like a professional kit designed to run the TC and pH tests several hundred times. Rather strange that they would sell something like that to a residential user, but that's Leslie's for you.

The tests you run with it will be accurate, but without the FAS-DPD test you are running in the dark about your FC and CC. Without accurate FC readings you run the risk of not SLAMing hard enough, or worse, SLAMing way too hard and damaging your pool. Your new kit will have that test, just hang in there.
Click to expand...
No, they're just color coded by test.

The yellow is 2-part DPD and R-003 That's how they sell it to the unsuspecting as the same as FAS-DPD
The red pH test also has acid and base demand.
Green caps are TA 7,8,9
Blue are CH 10, 11,12
White is a double helping of R-0013
 
TF-100 with speed stir is on its way. Mean time, this reads up to 5 PPM of chlorine. I've had the pool well over that for a week now. This morning I diluted the test with half tap water and retested. Showed at 5ppm with diluted test so I'm assuming I'm at 10 ppm overall. Another 2 gal of 8.25 bleach in a 40k gal pool should have brought me to 14ppm. CYA is at 40 and holding. Point is this has been going on for a week now. Pool is still cloudy with green tint. Hayward Sand Filter running 24/7. Brushing and skimming daily. Wondering if it might be a filtration issue. Over the last year and a half, had a pool company putting in granular chlorine and then I was doing the same for the last month til I found this site about a week and a half ago. Last night I'm vacuuming the pool in the deep end (can't see the bottom) and come across a spot where the vacuum is hanging up. I push through it and 15 seconds later I see what looks like chlorine granules being shoved back into the pool via the return. A. Undisolved chlorine. B. Seems like the sand filter should catch this?

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Hang in there Sealy! Even though you have been trying to be aggressive, it's still guess work until you TF-100 arrives. That way you can definitely confirm the CYA and FC levels and adjust accordingly. Maintain what you are doing, but don't give up. The "clouds will open" when you get that test kit. :)
 
sealy99 said:
TF-100 with speed stir is on its way. Mean time, this reads up to 5 PPM of chlorine. I've had the pool well over that for a week now. This morning I diluted the test with half tap water and retested. Showed at 5ppm with diluted test so I'm assuming I'm at 10 ppm overall. Another 2 gal of 8.25 bleach in a 40k gal pool should have brought me to 14ppm. CYA is at 40 and holding. Point is this has been going on for a week now. Pool is still cloudy with green tint. Hayward Sand Filter running 24/7. Brushing and skimming daily. Wondering if it might be a filtration issue. Over the last year and a half, had a pool company putting in granular chlorine and then I was doing the same for the last month til I found this site about a week and a half ago. Last night I'm vacuuming the pool in the deep end (can't see the bottom) and come across a spot where the vacuum is hanging up. I push through it and 15 seconds later I see what looks like chlorine granules being shoved back into the pool via the return. A. Undisolved chlorine. B. Seems like the sand filter should catch this?

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Click to expand...
Don't you hate it when that happens? Trichlor and Dichlor are both acidic, so don't be alarmed if you see rough blinding white patches where all that stuff was. If it was CA=hyp, it might be raised blinding white patches. You'd hope the filter would catch it.

If CYA is 40, shock level is 16. You should be targeting 16 or maybe even 18 when you add more bleach. You want to kill the algae faster than it can reproduce. It's to the death. Knock it down and kick it again and again until it's dead. If you don't hit it hard enough and often enough, it has a chance to recover slightly.
 
TF-100 arrived Tuesday. Did an initial set of readings and now see the value in being able to test chlorine above 5ppm. Going through a LOT more bleach now. Started SLAM wednesday. CYA is at 40. PH at start of slam was 7.2. Tuesday evening I bring the FC up to 16. 6 am Wednesday, it's back down to 8. I bring it back to 16 and head to work. By the time I get home at 8:00 that evening, it's back to 8. Same thing Thursday and Friday. Now Saturday morning and it's back to 8. My question is this, if I am unable to maintain it at SLAM levels consistently due to work schedule, but it doesn't ever drop below normal target and I am bringing it back to SLAM roughly every 12 hours, will SLAM still work? Or is it a lost cause because I can't keep it at 16 til it's clear and I can see to the bottom?

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The SLAM is based on bringing the FC back to shock level a minimum of twice a day. As long as you do it before and after work you will be successful. Any additional time you test and adjust speeds up the process
 
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