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Thread: Test result conundrum....

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    Test result conundrum....

    Checking back in. Got my TF-100 test kit, did my first test. Results are:
    CHLORINE - .5 (yikes)
    ph - 7.5
    FC = 1.0
    CC = .5
    TC = 1.5
    TA = 160
    CYA = 80
    CH = 100

    So...obviously the CHLORINE needs to come UP -according to the pool calculator my TA and CYA need to come down. Yet- Pool School says don't lower the TA just to get close to some number ...? I can swap out the water to lower my CYA which begs the question.....

    1) swap out the water THEN add the chlorine....?
    2) what is reverse osmosis water treatment?

    Ugh - feel like I'm chasing my tail. Not sure which to tackle first or how.


    20 x 40 ft, 36,0000 gal in-ground pool, vinyl lining HAYWARD self priming super pump; HAYWARD S-200 high rate sand filter, TF-100 test kit
    Last edited by poolmomME; 06-12-2015 at 03:09 PM. Reason: left out pool info

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    DaninFLA's Avatar
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    you have a non-saltwater pool, correct?

    you need to drain and refill 1/2 of your pool unfortunately to get the CYA down. I would immediately get your FC up though to prevent algae. get it set to your target level based on current CYA.

    drain 1/2 the pool, then rechlorinate and do an overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT) to see if a slam is warranted.

    don't worry about TA. other numbers look great.

    reverse osmosis is what the guys out in California have to do to purify their water to remove CH that builds up. only an option for them because they cant fill their pools with water.
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    RO has a very limited availability, mostly only parts of CA, AZ, and I think TX. It is very expensive (more that replacing water) but can be used to lower the CH and CYA.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    I was in the same situation and drained 50% yesterday with my fc at 9 and now cya is at 60 while I do the slam and oclt. Lots of work but easier to get cya fixed first then adjust pH and others, besides fc of course.
    19K IG Pebbletec with attached spa. 60sqft Cartridge filter, Intelliflow VS, 399k BTU Gas Heater, Pentair IC40. Phoenix, AZ, full sun.

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    As the others have said, take care of the high CYA first, then avoid the use of stabilized chlorine products so you don't have to worry about it in the future. Since you have a vinyl liner pool you probably want to drain 20-25% of the water at a time and refill a couple of times to get your CYA down as you should always leave at least a foot of water over the liner in the shallow end to keep it from lifting and wrinkling. Get your FC up to shock level for your new CYA level and do an overnight chlorine loss test to see if you need to follow the SLAM process or not. As to the TA, don't worry about it now, worry about it some weekend when you are bored and don't have anything else to do, it can wait.

    Ike
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    Tough one. That CYA might actually be even higher than 100. The graduations get pretty close together down at the bottom. You might want to check Extended Test Kit Directions Post 8 Step 9 to be sure.

    Drain, refill, add bleach to the hose stream as you're filling.

    Now.... Let's examine how this happened. I suspect there were pucks involved, and probably a weekly "shock." CYA is like the STD of the pool world. Once you get it, it never goes away.

    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    Okay... what is the best way to drain the pool? Assume it is bad to have pump on while water level is below skimmers, yes?

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Test result conundrum....

    Quote Originally Posted by poolmomME View Post
    Okay... what is the best way to drain the pool? Assume it is bad to have pump on while water level is below skimmers, yes?
    That depends entirely on how the pool is plumbed. If there is a main drain at the bottom of the deep end and it has a separate valve, shut off the skimmers, open the main drain, set the multiport valve to waste and let 'er rip.

    Of there's some nearby ground lower than the bottom of the pool, you can siphon using a garden hose or the vacuum hose.

    Or rent or borrow or buy a submersible pump.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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