Milky white pool water

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T

Taessi

0
Jun 12, 2015
6
Suffolk. Va
Hello,

I have a 22' Intex round pool using the SWG. I was unable to work on it till 2 weekends ago. I started the shocking process then by at first adding the clear blue 65% active chlorine. But then I read on here to do Bleach. So I swapped to bleach and was doing 1.5 gallon bottles of 8.25% bleach for two days. I may have not been getting my chlorine up high enough. I still have small particles of algae floating. I can not even see in the pool but maybe 2 to 3 inches deep. The water is extremely milky white. This morning I took the filter apart. I am using the Zeosand sand substitute in the filter. The inside looks good the media still looks good not coated in algae or black. still same color as when I put it in. I have also been running the pool pump for 24/7 for almost 1.5 weeks straight. I also back wash when the pressure rises by about 4 psi above the operating pressure.

I had the local pool store run my water tests and these were the numbers wednesday morning after I dumped more shock in tuesday night.

Free available chlorine 11.72
total chlorine ------------11.93
CC -------------------------0.21
pH ------------------------ 6.9
Total Alkalinity (Input)---62
total Alkalinity (adj) -----39
Calcium hardness --------27
CYA --------------------- 70
copper--------------------0.7
Iron-----------------------0.7
salt-----------------------2200ppm (I have added 2 bags of salt since)
saturation index--------- -1.4 (corrosive)

what should I do to try to get this cleaned up? keep slamming it with bleach?

Thank you for all the help,
Richard
 
You're not SLAMing it now. In order to do so, you need a proper test kit and can't be relying on pool store results. SLAM is a process of achieving the proper shock level of chlorine based on an accurate CYA level and keeping it there until you pass the criteria. You cannot do that without a proper test kit. Order a recommended test kit and post results when you get them. Only then can you actually SLAM the pool with the methods detailed here on TFP.

SLAM Procedure
 
Richard, Joel nails it in his reply - proper test kit (i.e. TF-100.. link below), stay away from the pool store and their products, and we "SLAM" not shock. Please understand the TFP method does not simply "shock" or "super-chlorinate" a pool as typically advised by the local pool store. We do what's called "SLAM". SLAM is significantly different than an overnight “spike” in chlorine, and can take a few days (perhaps even a week or two) to properly complete. The recommended test kit is extremely important to properly conduct a SLAM to properly read the FC and CYA levels. If you need anymore help, please ask.
 
Maintain the status quo for now by:
- Keep PH at 7.2
- In preparation for SLAM, if CYA is low (i.e. 30) leave it there. If it's already high because of your SWG, you can leave it and use more bleach during SLAM, or drain a little. Either will work, just up to you.
- Until your kit arrives, add about 1 gallon of regular bleach per day just to hold things over.
- Read-up on the SLAM link below - especially the "MAINTAIN" and 3 items required to pass a SLAM.

Also refer to the Chlorine/CYA chart link below. That's what you will use a LOT in the near future. :)
 
Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.
 
So test kit came in
Ph is 7.4
FC is 2.5
CC is 1
TC is 3.5
calcium hardness 125
total alkalinity 130
CYA 50


test was performed around 9:15 pm last night.

So as of right now the water is clear enough to see the bottom but you can see some cloudiness. Also there appears to be stuff on the bottom (white and stuck on) in areas particularly about 6 to 8 inches from the sides, that cant be vacuumed or brushed off easily.

So at this point what is all of your recommendations?
 
I have a quick question. I have the Intex Krystal Clear saltwater system ( Amazon.com : Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System (Discontinued by Manufacturer) : Swimming Pool Chlorine Alternatives : Patio, Lawn Garden ) I want to unplug the copper electrodes. I already unplugged the one closest to the inlet of the SWG, do I unscrew and unplug the second electrode or is it just the one?

Also a question about the slam, I have been adding the bleach by pouring into the pool speading it and brushing it around. Can you pour it into the skimmer and let the pump and return jet spread it or will this cause a problem to the pump adding that much chlorine to it?

Thank you,
Richard
 

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Taessi said:
I have a quick question. I have the Intex Krystal Clear saltwater system ( Amazon.com : Intex Krystal Clear Saltwater System (Discontinued by Manufacturer) : Swimming Pool Chlorine Alternatives : Patio, Lawn Garden ) I want to unplug the copper electrodes. I already unplugged the one closest to the inlet of the SWG, do I unscrew and unplug the second electrode or is it just the one?
Click to expand...

You only want to unplug the one which has copper. From the photo in the link you provided, it looks like it's the electrode on the left; the one on the right is probably the saltwater chlorine generator.
 
ok. Thank you.

So started yesterday at 10am, been maintaining FC high. At 1:30am last night I measured FC to be at 34. I didnt measure it in the morning right away and the sun got on it. But when I measured at 10:45am (5 hours of sunlight on it) FC was down to 31 so 3ppm drop with 5 hours of sunlight and total of 9 hours separate between measurements.

Along with this CC has been 0.5ppm possibly lower (sometimes the water turns a very very light pink with all 5 drops of R-003 and sometimes it doesnt change at all) since 12:30pm yesterday (2 hours into it).

I had to take my daughter out to Busch Gardens today so I wasnt able to maintain the Bleach addition. But when I left fc was at 31ppm and returned tonight at 8pm at 18ppm. So it stayed fairly high even with the sun on it.

The pool water looks extremely clear too. I can see through the center of the pool.

So my question is does this sound like all the algae is dead? If so, should I do anything about my calcium hardness and total alkalinity? or are they fine to let be at the current numbers?
 
Taessi said:
So my question is does this sound like all the algae is dead? If so, should I do anything about my calcium hardness and total alkalinity? or are they fine to let be at the current numbers?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's likely the algae is dead at this point, but the way we tell when to stop the SLAM is via the three criteria: water is clear with no visible algae, <= 1 ppm FC overnight chlorine loss, <= 0.5 ppm CC. If you do an OCLT with low chlorine loss, then because you've met the other criteria you can end the SLAM.

You can leave the CH alone since you don't need calcium in your pool with a vinyl liner (I presume, because it's Intex above-ground). As for your TA, why don't you see how your pH is over time. If it tends to rise too quickly, then you can consider lowering your TA, but if it doesn't rise too fast then ongoing acid addition over time should lower your TA level unless your fill water has a very high TA level and you've got significant evaporation and refill.

- - - Updated - - -

neil.corrigan12 said:
My pools has become milky as well. I just bought my test kit now and hopefully I won't have to spend a lot for my pool's maintenance. I've got to try your suggestions guys.
Click to expand...

Use a proper test kit and post your results since there are at least 100 Reasons for Cloudy Swimming Pool Water. This should probably be moved into its own thread so that we don't mix up working on two different pools in the same thread.
 
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