Does the pool have a "main drain'? ie;a fitting at the deep end from where the filtration system can draw water to filter? If so, is the valve open? Is the pump strainer clean? Filter clean? While I agree with other's observations re; water chemistry, circulation is mighty important too. I assume you run your pump 24/7? You need to.
Watch out for trying to do too much adjustment at once. the pH is off-the-charts too low - baking soda will bring that up - and it will take quite a bit. The total alk numbers don't make sense, a new pool with a fresh fill sure shouldn't have a total alk as low as 46, and what is "adjusted total alk"? Did someone adjust it even lower? Ouch. Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is used to bring that up, in a liner pool it should be at least 80, I usually like to see around 120 or so. You'll need a lot of that as well. I'd make it a priority to concentrate on getting the pH and total alk up where it should be - liner pool should be close to 7.4 (the pH of your eyes). Low pH wrinkles liners and takes the life out of them quicker than necessary. The trouble with this is, it will take more than a few days to stabilize the pH and especially the total alk adjustments, and like ohers have said, you don't have much time before the water turns. So - I'd also add at least a quart of some good quality ($26/qt.) algaecide - the killer, not the preventer - and hit it with a couple of cases (8 gallons) of liquid shock. Remember - liquid chlorine shock is heavier than water, add the majority of it close to the break near the shallow end so it doesn't hang out in the deep end and bleach the liner. I know, a lot of stuff to dump in, and the water's going to be out of whack for a few days or better, but this water is pretty out of shape!
Be sure the pump and filter are working as they're supposed to! Good luck.
