I know the TF-100 is the recommended around here but having spent a considerable amount of money I am looking for a more economical kit. I have been eyeing this poolmaster 22260 5 way test kit and wonder what yall think for a good starter kit.
Starter Test kit
- Thread starter bbradUSMC
- Start date
What sort of testing supplies do you have on hand? Also, what type of pool are you talking about? Having those details in your signature helps us answer questions like this more easily. Please take a moment to fill those in as soon as you can.
Setting up a pool for the first time starting tomorrow afternoon. It is the Intex 18'x48" ultra frame. I currently have no testing supplies. Will be going to the store tomorrow. Would like to start the slam process saturday after the pool is set up, obviously.
I would not waste money on a "starter" kit. Buy the one you need.
And there is no need for the SLAM process on a fresh fill (which you would not be able to do with the cheap kit you posted anyway due to the lack of FAS-DPD chlorine test).
And there is no need for the SLAM process on a fresh fill (which you would not be able to do with the cheap kit you posted anyway due to the lack of FAS-DPD chlorine test).
I suggest a full kit then. TF 100 is my preference, but a same reagent branded Taylor K2006 is also a fine kit.
On a fresh fill and assuming you NEVER let the FC drop below the required level and accurately dosed your pool with the proper amount of CYA right off the bat, you could manage a seasonal/small pool using only a Taylor K-1000 kit. TFTestkits.net
This also means your willing to start properly, stay on top of chemistry AT ALL TIMES and need to dump all the pool water and start over if you don't do so.
See: Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools
People here will view a 7000+ gallon pool (yours) as larger than a seasonal pool (~3000 gallons or less). The recommendation for this large of a pool would be to not treat it as a temporary pool and get a test kit that will allow you to manage it over the long term, ESPECIALLY with a long pool season in Texas. Get the TF-100 TFTestkits.net and do it right.
This also means your willing to start properly, stay on top of chemistry AT ALL TIMES and need to dump all the pool water and start over if you don't do so.
See: Pool School - Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools
People here will view a 7000+ gallon pool (yours) as larger than a seasonal pool (~3000 gallons or less). The recommendation for this large of a pool would be to not treat it as a temporary pool and get a test kit that will allow you to manage it over the long term, ESPECIALLY with a long pool season in Texas. Get the TF-100 TFTestkits.net and do it right.
That kit will get you a lot of the way there, and you can probably run fine if you keep on top of things. It lacks a Calcium hardness test and an FAS-DPD test. Assuming you aren't using an SWG then the CH is not as important, but without an FAS-DPD you will not have a very good handle on your FC and CC levels. Those are pretty important numbers. It is your call, as I said it isn't a terrible kit. Just ask yourself though, after spending a considerable amount of money to get the pool, do you want to risk it going green over a matter of saving $45?
If money is not an issue, no doubt TF100 is the way to go.
Walmart has a 6 way test kit for around 20 bucks. I'd say a little better than the one you linked since you can do 2 cya tests with it. It's certainly no TF-100 but it can get you by on a seasonal pool if you stay out of trouble. When the funds catch up, if you get in trouble, or when you get the desire for a bit more meticulous care..... TF100 all the way.
Walmart has a 6 way test kit for around 20 bucks. I'd say a little better than the one you linked since you can do 2 cya tests with it. It's certainly no TF-100 but it can get you by on a seasonal pool if you stay out of trouble. When the funds catch up, if you get in trouble, or when you get the desire for a bit more meticulous care..... TF100 all the way.
Thanks for the replies. I am going to order the TF-100 no doubt. I am just looking for a kit to get up and running for now. What kit are you referring to jcp?
You do not really need a kit to get up and running for a few days.
You know the CYA is 0, so PoolMath will tell you how much to add to get to 30ppm. (can not test for a week after it dissolves).
And you will need to add 2ppm of FC daily.
Do those 2 things and verify when the kit arrives.
You know the CYA is 0, so PoolMath will tell you how much to add to get to 30ppm. (can not test for a week after it dissolves).
And you will need to add 2ppm of FC daily.
Do those 2 things and verify when the kit arrives.
I wouldn't go too long without the kit, no reason to. I've had several days when the kids had friends over and the pool consumed more chlorine than I would have guessed without a measurement.
taylor k1000 oto basic test kit. this will get you started until you can afford one of the larger kits.
after you fill your pool, the first thing i suggest is adding about a third of a jug of bleach. using a saltwater generator and a CYA of 30, i typically like to have my chlorine at 3 ppm when i enter the pool.
after you fill your pool, the first thing i suggest is adding about a third of a jug of bleach. using a saltwater generator and a CYA of 30, i typically like to have my chlorine at 3 ppm when i enter the pool.
So I dont want to add all of the bleach to raise the chlorine content that the calculator recommends right away? It recommends quite a bit.
Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
What do you have your Target FC level set to? What pool volume do you have entered?
What do you have your Target FC level set to? What pool volume do you have entered?
to take the chlorine from 0 to 4 on a 6500 gallon pool you would add 39 oz. of 8.25% bleach. that is roughly a third of a jug.
If you are going to start off without the TF-100 there is 1 thing that is imperative, keep a log of ALL chemicals added to the pool, when and how much, also avoid using ALL dry forms of chlorine, and start off with a measured dose of CYA stabilizer to get you to 30 ppm CYA (no higher) hung in front of a water return in and old sock.