Bye-Bye Liquidator... Hello Stenner!... Maybe. (This time with info in my sig, doh!)

Jump to latest Follow Reply
F

FixItPete

0
Apr 7, 2012
152
I've had my Liquidator for a few year now... and overall... I'm happy with it. What I don't like lately is that I'm coming home and the water level in the liquidator is below the inlet and outlet so the pump is angry since it's drawing air.

I'm *almost* ready to order an adjustable Stenner 10GPD pump like this:
45MHP10

with the 1/4" Black UV tube... and I have some questions.

My pool is in my sig. Would you say that's a good "one". I would like to run it at the same time as my pump (220) and adjust the GPD to where I need it to be. Right now 2.5 gal. lasts me about 5-7 days... now that it's hotter... closer to 5 days. I'm in SE Florida. I can buy whatever tank y'all think is best.

Thoughts?

Or do I shut up, change out all the check valves in my Liquidator, etc. and be done with it.

Any brainstorming would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Pete

Pump: Hayward SP2300VSP Max-Flo VS Variable-Speed Pool Pump
 
Last edited:
With a 16,000 gallon pool the 10gpd will be rather large unless you're running your main pump only a couple hours a day. How long are you running the main pump?

In my 13,000 gallon pool I was running the main pump 8 hours a day and I was running my 3gpd on about 5. If you're running your main pump about the same then you'd have to run the 10gpd pump on about 2 or less. I think that'd be too close to zero for me.

I'd actually recommend the 10gpd fixed rate pump and run it on a separate timer. There's less noise and less parts in a fixed rate pump to maintain.

Having said that, If you went with the 10gpd pump and found that it was too large, you could always replace the tube with a #1 tube and it'd be a 3gpd pump.
 
I second what Bama said. Go with a fixed rate pump and a digital timer - you will have all the flexibility you could want and the pump will be on a minimum amount of time. Simplier is almost always better from a reliability standpoint. I went with the 45MPHP10 pump with an Intermatic ET-1125R digital timer and a 15 gallon tank. I am dosing twice a day for 25 minutes and appear to be able to maintain my FC at my target +/- 0.5-1ppm. If I wanted to reduce the variability of the FC a little, I could dose four times a day. If I need to adjust my dosing, it takes all of about 15 seconds to adjust the two off times. In truth, I have only had my Stenner installed for a week and a half but am extremely happy with the performance I am achieving so far. Others with more time can provide their experiences.

Gary
 
Thanks guys! I hear you on the shift from adjustable to fixed on account of less parts, etc. And I like that idea. Currently I only have 220v in the area I was going to put it all (I was going to put it after the pool pump timer)...

Let's brainstorm this:

I assume I can get a fixed rate Stenner -- 220v, and a digital 220v timer and install the timer off the 220v hot (before it gets to the pool timer)... so that would deal with dosing.

I currently run my pump around 12 hours a day. 3-4 hours at a 2400RPM and then 9 hours at 1000RPM

I'm assuming I want to install the Stenner on the *outbound* (discharge, NOT suction) side of things, correct? Can I use one of the two ports located at the bottom of the pump?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm looking to do this sooner than later since I'm concerned about the darn pump running dry again after the liquidator drained below the inlet/outlets.

Many Many Thanks,
Pete :)
 
Thanks guys! That link is great! I'm going to remove the bits that have the saddle valves, and redo that pipe work... then I'm going to use the reducing T with the thread, etc... no more saddle ****! Yay!

I'm also going to go with the 220v fix rate stenner... I just have to really think about which size. Keep in mind, I'm barely using 1/2" of a gal. of beach right now... so by my calculations... a 3GD pump, that's 3 gal. per 24 hours. Mine runs 12 hours... so that's 1.5GPD max (if there was not timer)... however, I'll have a timer... so it would only run 1/3 of the 12 hours (4 hours)... naturally I'm going to to have to tinker around...

But is my logic right-on or am I missing something?
 
FixItPete said:
Thanks guys! I hear you on the shift from adjustable to fixed on account of less parts, etc. And I like that idea. Currently I only have 220v in the area I was going to put it all (I was going to put it after the pool pump timer)...

Let's brainstorm this:

I assume I can get a fixed rate Stenner -- 220v, and a digital 220v timer and install the timer off the 220v hot (before it gets to the pool timer)... so that would deal with dosing.

I currently run my pump around 12 hours a day. 3-4 hours at a 2400RPM and then 9 hours at 1000RPM

I'm assuming I want to install the Stenner on the *outbound* (discharge, NOT suction) side of things, correct? Can I use one of the two ports located at the bottom of the pump?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm looking to do this sooner than later since I'm concerned about the darn pump running dry again after the liquidator drained below the inlet/outlets.

Many Many Thanks,
Pete :)
Click to expand...

(1) Yes, you can use the 220 V if you get a 220 V Stenner pump and timer provided your breaker and wires are sized appropriately for the total load (Pool Pump plus Stenner Pump plus anything else on the circuit). And yes you would want to wire the Stenner timer off of the 220 V before the pump timer.

(2) No need to use the port on the pump. Drill a 7/16 hole in your return line after the filter and tap with a 1/2" 18 NPT 1/4" 18-NPT. I was concerned about drilling into the PVC pipe, but it worked great for me.

(3) You mention having a pump timer and you have a VS pump. Is the scheduling for the pump speed handled in the pump or timer?

Check%20Valve_zpsbvkedlmr.jpg
 
Last edited:
FixItPete said:
Just curious... on the Stenner... why do we use the high pressure and not the 25psi one? I'm going to do what you guys do... just curious more than anything. :)
Click to expand...

The biggest reason is that the HP's have a check valve at the injection fitting and the LP's have just a duck bill. Other than that (and a couple of the pump tube sizes are restricted to low pressure) the pumps are identical.
 
garyengr said:
(1) Yes, you can use the 220 V if you get a 220 V Stenner pump and timer provided your breaker and wires are sized appropriately for the total load (Pool Pump plus Stenner Pump plus anything else on the circuit). And yes you would want to wire the Stenner timer off of the 220 V before the pump timer.

(2) No need to use the port on the pump. Drill a 7/16 hole in your return line after the filter and tap with a 1/2" 18 NPT. I was concerned about drilling into the PVC pipe, but it worked great for me.

(3) You mention having a pump timer and you have a VS pump. Is the scheduling for the pump speed handled in the pump or timer?

Check%20Valve_zpsbvkedlmr.jpg
Click to expand...

The speed change on the pump is handled by the pump. When the timer turns on the pump it revs to 3000RPM for about 10 seconds, drops to 2400RPM for 3 hours and then drops to 1000RPM until the timer shuts it off (about 9 hours later). Then the next morning the timer turns the power back on and it all starts over again. :)

Bama Rambler said:
The biggest reason is that the HP's have a check valve at the injection fitting and the LP's have just a duck bill. Other than that (and a couple of the pump tube sizes are restricted to low pressure) the pumps are identical.
Click to expand...

Ah. Understood. I'm ordering the 45MHP2 now. I found it for $300 delivered. UsWaterSystems seems to be higher, or am I missing something (or should I look elsewhere?)?

Thanks,
Pete :)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
FixItPete said:
The speed change on the pump is handled by the pump. When the timer turns on the pump it revs to 3000RPM for about 10 seconds, drops to 2400RPM for 3 hours and then drops to 1000RPM until the timer shuts it off (about 9 hours later). Then the next morning the timer turns the power back on and it all starts over again. :)


Thanks,
Pete :)
Click to expand...

When I installed my Stenner I was concerned about the Stenner timer and the pool pump timer drifting apart either due to clock accuracy or power outages resulting in the Stenner dosing when the pump was off and upping the concentration in the pool plumbing. In my system, both timers are digital and do not lose time with power outage, therefore the clocks stay fairly well aligned even with power outages. If your pool timer is mechanical and the Stenner timer is digital, then with a power outage, you could have a problem as the mechanical timer will stop and be off by the length of time the power is off.

So...my recommendation is that you use similar technology timers for the Pool Pump and Stenner Pump. That way if your away on vacation and power should drop for an extended time, your two systems will stay roughly aligned in time.


Gary
 
Understood. Yeah... I'm going to use a digital timer for the Stenner and leave the pool pump as is. If I have a power failure, the Stenner timer will be OK... the pool pump will just start a new cycle... which is no big deal (happens from time to time).
 
Stenner 45MPHP2 Single Head Fixed Output High Pressure Pump | 45MPHP2 with a 15 Gal. Gray UV Tank... from USWater... $379.01 delivered to my door.

Question... and I promise my last one... at least until I have all the components. LOL... is this the correct pump and tank? LOL.

- - - Updated - - -

garyengr said:
The 22 is 22GPD, so...assume you want the 2.
Click to expand...

Bingo. Duh. Thanks. I'm supposed to be working right now... so I'm rushing like an idiot.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply