Algae problem or not? Don't know who to trust

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L

lbojorquez

0
Jun 10, 2015
3
San Tan Valley
Hello. I am new to this forum/website, so far I can see there is a wealth of good information though! It is all so overwhelming!

I have a 23,715 gallon pool that is about 2 years old. I have been wrestling with a algae problem for 10+ days. It started out as what looked like yellow algae on the shady side of the pool. Chlorine level was at zero. I had been using my automatic in deck chlorinator since pool was filled with water. Chlorine tabs were dissipating, but come to find out there was a clog and the pool wasn't getting much chlorine. I have switched to a floating chlorination device for now. Per pool store advice... I added 1 cup of a Mustard Algae product from the store, brushed pool, then a hour later added 2 lbs of shock, ran the cleaning system for 12+hours, then added 2 more pounds of shock and continued to run cleaning system for a total of 24 hours. Then retested water. Chlorine was showing zero. Algae looked better, so I was advised to add 2 more bags of shock. I did. Next morning I had water retested and mentioned I saw 2 new spots (or spots that were covered with yellow so I didn't see them before) that looked like a rust spot that had a black center to it. I was then told my phosphates were high>300 and I probably had black algae starting. I cleaned cartridge filters. I was advised to add Black algae chemical and 2 bags of shock, brush pool surface and run system for 24 hours. Next day, chlorine was zero. Black spots gone. I was told to add 3 bags of shock. Run system for 24 hours. Visually I am told my pool looks great, the water is crystal clear at this point. Free Chlorine and Total Chlorine is at 5, ph 7.6 CYA 100 and Phosphates 500. I am now close to $200 in cost and they recommend I add phospate remover. Everything I have read in the forums says this isnt necessary and that dichlor increases Cyanuric acid (which I believe has been active ingredient in the shock they sold me...Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate)

My question now is this...do I need to drain my pool, add the Phosphate removal chemical and start over?

Thank You so much!

Lisa

23,715 Gallon in ground plaster pool. Pentair Cartridge Filter (currently using of brand filters..Pleatco)Pentair variable speed pump, in ground cleaning system
 
Hi Lisa. I'm new to this too, but believe me, the people here can help you and you will NEVER need to talk to a pool store again. They will all tell you to go ahead and get a good test kit. The one that is most recommended is the TF-100. Most bang for the buck and if you get the extended kit, you will have extra reagent. http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html
I know it seems like a lot of info, but take the time to read EVERYTHING you can in Pool School. The more you understand the better. Once you get it, it's like a light goes off, and it really becomes quite simple.
Now, I'll let some experts give you more advice. But really, you need to get a good test kit and post your results at least for:
FC, CC, PH, TA, CYA, and CH. Read this:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
Good Luck!


Good Luck!
 
I was in your situation last year. Over the winter I promised myself things were going to be different this year.

I second the advice - get a recommended test kit, post some results, read as much as you can, and don't be afraid to ask questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Lisa, welcome to TFP. Yes the cya is likely too high if the pool store results are anywhere close. It could even be over 100 as 100 is the max the tests can read. If so some draining and refill will be needed. Also skip the phosphate remover, it will not help this and is expensive.
 
Hi Lisa and glad you found TFP. You are right there is a wealth of information and expertize in the people that help on this site. As others said get a good test kit and read the links provided . Maybe you can return some of the pool store stuff you might not need. To do it right you must be able to measure the chemicals accurately. And in the beginning more testing later less testing. CYA looks high so plan of dumping some of the water . stop using the puck tablets they will add to your CYA. Buy some )lots) bleach ( regular unscented) there is a bleach price thread (Bleach Prices 2015) in the forum you might ck it out to help find prices and understand how to get best value for $$. good luck
 
Welcome Lisa to TFP! :wave: You are in the right place. :) Lots of good info above, so here's a few other "cliff-note" versions of items for you to consider:
- Take all tablets/pucks out of your pool now! Do not use any more "bags of shock" from the store. All of that is contributing to your high CYA :grrrr:
- You need to do a "SLAM" (link below) but can't until you replace some water to lower your CYA - ideally to around 30, but if you don't get quite that low a SLAM can still be done, it will just take more bleach
- From now on, regular liquid bleach will be your pool's best friend and sanitizer since it's pure with virtually no side effects and does not harm your pool when used as instructed
- If the pool store is in the direction of North ... run South! Do not go to them for testing, "miracle" products, or advice. They are in the business of selling, and business is good. Save your $$$ and sanity.

We'll help you get this fixed. As noted above, start at Pool School while you are draining your pool. Become familiar with the links in my sign below, and the rest will work itself out. Keep in touch and ask all the questions you need. Everyone here enjoys helping others like yourself. Have a good day. :)
 
Hello Lisa and welcome to TFP,
We understand that doing your own pool maintenance can be overwhelming. You may get the impression that the learning curve is straight up. But sit back and relax, if you have questions, just ask,
Lets address a couple of things in your first post......
Your in deck auto chlorinator and the floating chlorinator : They are both adding CYA to your water. As per the pool store testing, your CYA level is at the top level or above that can be tested. Remove the Tabs from the in deck and remove the floating chlorinator completely. The Tabs are Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione, which are stabilized chlorine. Stabilized=CYA.

I am now close to $200 in cost and they recommend I add phospate remover. Everything I have read in the forums says this isnt necessary and that dichlor increases Cyanuric acid (which I believe has been active ingredient in the shock they sold me...Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate)

My question now is this...do I need to drain my pool, add the Phosphate removal chemical and start over?
Click to expand...
Yes, Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate is stabilized chlorine. Its adding CYA. The bags of shock will be usefull later on but in a diffrent way.

The pool store has taken more than $200 from you and are setting themselves up to take alot more. First it will be Phosphate remover, then Algecide, then more Diclor Shock, then CYA reducer (which in preliminary tests is showing NOT to work). Just when you have had all you can take, then they say "You have 'chlorine lock', drain your pool and start over". Which clears up the problem which started out to be high CYA to start with that they caused.

What to do next????
Take control of your pool. You need to test your own pool. Only you will take care of your pool like it needs to be. Get the recommended test kit with the XL option. The speed stir is not required, but extremely useful. As you are starting to see, the pool store is going to keep taking without end.
You are going to need to do a partial drain and refill. How much depends on your 'true' CYA level. The only way to know that is by testing it yourself. Thus the need for the Testing Kit.
I know this isnt addressing what to do to your pool now but to effectively help we need reliable numbers
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! Any type of algae can be killed with the correct levels of chlorine. Many of the pool store methods may kill the black or yellow algae, but they also deplete the chlorine quickly, allowing new algae to take hold if the chlorine levels remain low for too long. When you use dichlor/trichlor products you are adding CYA to the water. The only way to lower the CYA is to drain and replace part of your pool water. When the CYA is too high, it is difficult to maintain the correct chlorine levels. Chlorine has to be maintained in the correct ratio to CYA to keep it at an effective level. When your pool is properly chlorinated there is no need for algaecide, phosphate remover, or any other "magic potions" to keep your pool clear. We recommend liquid chlorine since it does not add CYA or calcium to your water. You can use either liquid chlorine from your pool store, or 8% plain, unscented bleach from your grocery store.

We recommend you take control of your pool by purchasing a high quality FAS/DPD test kit, such as a Taylor k2006 or the TF 100 . When you do your own testing you can rely on the results. You can test at the same time of day in the same location by the same person which will greatly reduce the risk of testing errors.

For more information on the TFP method of pool care, read ABCs of pool water chemistry and Pool School - What is TFPC?
 

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Whenever I read these posts I really feel bad for the pool owners and mad at the pool stores. It's so frustrating to see the pool store take so much money from someone and in the process they are most of the time making everything worse.

I'm so glad you found TFP. :)

Buying a kit is the way to go so congratulations on taking that very important step!

How about some info about your pool? The pump and filter type etc. If you post pics someone will definitely be able to help you with the drain/refill process.

The best way to upload pictures here is to use a photo page like photo bucket where you upload the pics there and it will give you a link that you can use to post them right in the thread.

We love pictures here!

If I wasn't posting from my phone I would give you a link. I'm sure somebody else will help if you can't figure out the picture posting thing.

Welcome to TFP!
 
I have a Pentair Clean and Clear Plus CCP520 cartridge filter system with Intelliflo variable speed pump.
filters-cartridge-clean-clear-plus-cartridge-filters-27.htm
 
Howdy again Lisa. Hope your test kit arrives soon. You should also go into settings and over on the left side click "edit signature" and place your pool info . See other people messages for examples. Yes you could start to change some of your water. Since we do not know the size and it looks like CYA is over 100% now exact number on how much to dump. Although it will waste some good water it may be useful for you to dump 20% of the pool and refill. then retest and see if CYA is <100% . if not do it again until you get a handle on the real CYA%.
 
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