Slight Green Algae Issue- New TF-100 Test Kit in Hand

Jun 3, 2015
24
Montgomery, TX
Evening,

Well we had our pool built late last summer and only got to use it for about 6 weeks before the temperatures dropped in TX. This spring we have had a large amount of rain and I have recently noticed that some parts of my pool walls have green on them. In addition the water is not as clear as it once was. A currently has a little bit of green tint to it.

So I head down to Leslie's and they check all my levels, my wife also tests them on her own. Below are the levels all within normal range except for the phosphates are a little high:

1) FC-4 ppm
2) TAC- 4 ppm
3) CH- 240ppm
4) CYA- 50 ppm
5) TA- 110 ppm
6) PH- 7.6
7) Copper- 0
8) Iron - 0
9) TDS- 500
10) PHO - 300

I then proceed to tell him about the green spots on the side walls. Well here comes the list of items he sells me on:

1) 5 lbs of Green to Clean
2) 15 lbs Leslie's Powder Plus Shock
3 2 bottles of Leslie's Clear Aid

So I buy all of the above items and I proceed home. When I get home I start my research and that's when I come across trouble free pools and start to do my research. Needless to say is that I have not added any of the above chemicals yet and am just continuing to brush.

TF-100 test kit was ordered last Thursday and arrived today. Tested the pool @ 8.30 pm after all pumps had shut down for the day, for the first time with the kit and here are the results:

1) FC-2.5 ppm
2) CC- 0.5 ppm
3) PH - 7.5
4) TA- 70
5) CH-300 ppm
6) CYA- 35

Will perform the overnight FC loss test in the morning to determine if I indeed have an issue.

I have been reading up about pool chemistry and the SLAM process and am ready to tackle if needed. I will attach pictures Tommorrow of the green issues on the walls and pool. Not as bad as I have seen from others in the forums.

My my question is during the SLAM process should I run my in floor cleaning system continuously?

Also will be confirming with the pool math calculator what to do in order to get to the recommended levels.

Any further help or input would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Welcome ! :wave:

I wouldn't even waste time with an overnight loss test. You already said "I have recently noticed that some parts of my pool walls have green on them. In addition the water is not as clear as it once was. A currently has a little bit of green tint to it." That's all you need to know. Don't waste time. Get some bleach in there. The sooner you kill it the faster it will clear and the less bleach it will take. Anything you can do to improve circulation helps. When bleach kills algae, there's no more in that area unless there's good circulation to bring a fresh supply to it. You want the potent SLAM water to go through all the plumbing, too. I'd run the floor system if I had it.

 
Thanks for the confirmation.

During the SLAM process do I turn my level on the Rainbow Chlorinator to 0, completely off or do I just keep it at the same level that I have it?

Welcome ! :wave:

I wouldn't even waste time with an overnight loss test. You already said "I have recently noticed that some parts of my pool walls have green on them. In addition the water is not as clear as it once was. A currently has a little bit of green tint to it." That's all you need to know. Don't waste time. Get some bleach in there. The sooner you kill it the faster it will clear and the less bleach it will take. Anything you can do to improve circulation helps. When bleach kills algae, there's no more in that area unless there's good circulation to bring a fresh supply to it. You want the potent SLAM water to go through all the plumbing, too. I'd run the floor system if I had it.

 
Thanks for the confirmation.

During the SLAM process do I turn my level on the Rainbow Chlorinator to 0, completely off or do I just keep it at the same level that I have it?
I'd shut it off during the SLAM and then restart it afterwards to raise the CYA a bit. If it's on during the SLAM, you'll just keep raising the CYA level which will raise shock level. You are aware of the dangers of overstabilized water, yes? When your CYA hits 50 or so, that's it, no more pucks except for vacations when no one is around to add bleach. Also, you might as well kill the UV and ozone so they don't skew the overnight loss test results. Whether they're necessary for anything but lining the builder's pockets is another discussion altogether.
 
Re: Green Algae's behavior at target FC and SLAM?

Ok. Test results from tonight

FC 1.5
PH 7.5
TA 70
CH 250
CYA 40

SLAM In progress as of 9pm. Added 892 oz of liquid bleach. Had to run out again to get more for Tommorrow morning. Filter pump is running and will be all night.

Will test FC in am and add bleach as necessary in order to maintain FC shock level of 16.

Will keep een you updated on progress. Brushed pool before the SLAM and algae green was more noticeable than before.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.