What Voltage do I have?

Jun 9, 2015
5
Mendota Heights
Hello - new to the forum - thanks for being here. I am getting ready to change out my old single speed pump with a new Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump. I have a question: the current set up is two pumps - one for the pool and one for the slide/sweeper. They are wired into one double circuit breaker. How do I know what voltage I have - 110 or 220V?

Thanks for the help!

Earniem
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

Your description of one double pole breaker indicates 220v. But (and please don't take this the wrong way, as it is not meant that way) your asking the question leads me to believe that maybe you should have a friend more versed in electrical matters at least help.

The National Electrical Code also requires that it be a GFCI breaker, so if it isn't now while you are dong the work you should correct this error.
 
No worries - no offense taken and thanks!
I'm always a little nervous about saying something like that on the web - you can't tell inflection of the voice or see facial expression. So, moving forward -

Are you replacing both pumps with the single pump or just replacing the circulation pump with the VS?
 
Leave the sweeper connected to the 110v circuit and install a new 20a breaker in the panel for the new pump. Run the red 12/2 or 10/2 wires, since this is 220v you will not have a neutral (white wire). You will have 2 hot leads, black and red. You might need to move breakers depending on the panel, most panels have certain locations for 240v breakers. Do you have a stab lock breaker type ?
 
They can be wired to a single breaker but not at different voltages (anything is possible...but is it to code?). The intellipro specifically states to run a minimum 12/2 for runs under 100' and 10/2 above.

Also states minimum 20a breaker at 220v. Personally I prefer a dedicated 20a breaker specifically for my pump....you can always connect more load to a breaker within reason depending on the amperage draw but you also have to take into consideration the FLA of a pump as the surge will have an amperage spike on initial startup. Its all about sizing the circuit correctly, for such an expensive pump I prefer a dedicated breaker with ground fault.
 
Sorry for the super slow response. I replaced just the circulation pump with the VS last night and It was much easier than I anticipated but now a problem. It started just as advertised - the green LED comes on so I hit the start button and it began the priming sequence - it ran for about 2 minutes. During that time I had a leaky connection on the pressure side so I repaired that and attempted to start the pump again. It clicked a couple times and went dead - the screen went dead, the green LED light went out - just like I turned the power off. The breaker did not trip. So now what??? The leak sprayed water all over so I made sure everything was dry before re-starting - The electrical cover was in place and sealed tight. The top cover was open but I would assume some water on that is ok since it is totally sealed. Any guesses? Is there a reset button somewhere other than the one on the key pad? I should add that it is wired through the existing switch for the old pump and when the leak started I used that switch to turn things off.

- - - Updated - - -

Both pumps are on one breaker. The old pump (s) were in place for 15 years so maybe the code has changed since installed. I rarely use the booster pump anyway but I do agree they should be separated.
 

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in case anyone is interested, Pentair was really good about the whole deal - they are sending me a new control unit UPS 3 day no charge. just an FYI because I didn't realize this: if the homeowner installs the pump you get 60 days parts and labor. If installed professionally you get 3 years. It will be the easiest $350 my pool guys ever made but that's the cost of 3 yr warranty. thanks for the help!
 
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