New Pool Owners with Chlorine Troubles!

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

shellyskygirl

0
Jun 9, 2015
44
MN
We bought a new home last October (in MN) and it has a inground 30,000 gallon pool. It has a sand filter with a automatic chlorinater. and use the chlorine pucks. We used well water to fill it up to required level but didn't know to use the filter on the hose to help with the iron. To open the pool we were told by the pool guy who was coming to open it for us to use 4 gallons liquid shock (2 one day, 2 the next). He came out on the third day and fired everything up and we then shocked the pool again with 4 lbs of granular shock. Since then we are fighting the free chlorine, just can't get it to a normal level and our total chlorine won't stay at a normal level. Since the opening on May 18th we have gone through 12 gallons liquid shock, a case of granular (Costco brand), 7 lbs pool store brand ulra shock, and 22 lbs Menards brand of shock and still not at the required level!!! We are taking another sample in tonight to see what the levels are but when testing this morning it didn't look good.

Test 1 May 24th:
Free Chlorine: .18 (added 8 lbs shock)
Total Chlorine: 2.44
Combined Chlorine: 2.26
pH: 7.5
Hardness: 156 (added 16 lbs to increase)
Alkalinity: 111
Cyanuric Acid: 9
Copper: .1
Iron: .2
Borate: 9

Test 2 June 2nd:
Free Chlorine: .31 (added 7 lbs)
Total Chlorine: 2.36
Combined Chlorine: 2.05
pH:6.9
Hardness: 190
Alkalinity: 86 (added 17 lbs to increase)
Cyanuric Acid: 26
Copper: .1
Iron: .2
Borate: 11

Test 3 June 7th:
Free Chlorine: .4 (added 10 lbs)
Total Chlorine: 3.18
Combined Chlorine: 2.78
pH: 6.6 (added 2 lbs)
Hardness: 166 (added 12 lbs)
Alkalinity: 99 (added 11 lbs)
Cyanuric Acid: 63
Copper: .2
Iron: .2
Borate: 20
--Also added a iron reducer and stabalizer.--

We are at a loss and it is getting REALLY expensive!! Do we simply just keep shocking it every night?
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

No, do not keep shocking it - but, you have a decision to make - follow the pool store advice or our advice??

My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something. We can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that was for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need to get rid of the stuff in your water consuming the chlorine , and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

You have to stop using all forms of solid chlorine. That includes tablets and granular shock. If you notice your CYA level is going up dramatically. You need to be using liquid chlorine. Funny thing, liquid chlorine is sold in every WalMart store for $2.98 a bottle. It's on the laundry isle and it's called bleach.

To understand what I'm talking about, read these three articles from Pool School :
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
Until you get your test kit I would say add no more than 1 bottle (121oz 8.25%) GreatValu bleach from WalMart each day. We will need test results to move forward, but you will be following the SLAM Process to clear everything up. That process will go through some bleach.
 
tim5055 said:
...you have a decision to make - follow the pool store advice or our advice??
Click to expand...
This is very true...The two methods are not compatible.

I can tell you that I saved over $1,000 in the first full year I managed the pool using the TFP method vs. the more traditional pool-store method. Makes the $68 I invested in the TF-100 seem like a small sum in comparison. Any time I had the opportunity to invest $68 for a return of $1,000 within a year, I would take that investment every time it was offered.

Oh...BTW...Welcome to TFP!
 
Okay thank you everyone!! Yes I am done with the pool store. The kid behind the counter doesn't seem to care about anything but me buying more product. I will order the test kit! When I get home I will remove the pucks, hopefully we haven't done too much damage that our CYA is too high. Again thank you everyone for all the help and any advice is welcome!! :D
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Great plan of action to get that TF-100 and some good old bleach...but I also suggest removing those pucks from your chlorinator. Not just turning it off, because the water still runs through it, doesn't it?

Yippee
 
Okay got the TF-100 in today and below are my results. Not to sure how accurate the CYA is, I don't have the best eye sight and didn't have the best lighting.
FC= .5
CC = 1.5
Hardness = 400
TA = 110
CYA= 80 (??)
pH = less then 6.8
 
shellyskygirl said:
Okay got the TF-100 in today and below are my results. Not to sure how accurate the CYA is, I don't have the best eye sight.
FC= .5
CC = 1.5
Hardness = 400
TA = 110
CYA= 80 (??)
pH = less then 6.8
Click to expand...
When did you conduct the CYA test? It is best conducted on a sunny day with the sun behind you (indirect light) holding the tube at your waist looking directly down the tube. Indoors at night would give you a higher reading.

In any case, you need chlorine - but you knew that.

You need to get the pH up. Into,the 7s before you SLAM. I would say use Borax to get it up so you can SLAM. Waiting on aeration is really not a good option. Borax is available as 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bJacket. Use Pool Math to compute the amount you need, but you may need to do it a,couple,of,times,because you may be well below 6.8.
 
Always wait 30 minutes at least between additions of different chemicals with the pump running. Some chemicals don't play well together, so let them mix well. Yes, mor chlorine please.

The last pool I dealt with that had very low pH due to continuous chlorination with tabs took several boxes. I took it slow, adding one at a time - waiting 30 minutes and testing again. As with almost everything dealing with pool water, it's easier NOT to add something than to get it back out of the water after you add it.
 
Last night we added 2 boxes borax at 76 oz each box and 30 minutes later tested still low. We then added 1 gallon (128 oz) bleach at 12.5%.

6 am this mornings readings:
FC = 1
CC = 2
pH = LOW

I added 2 more boxes borax. Will be home in 3 hours, I will test again then.
**Thank you to everyone for the help and advice, in merely a couple of days you all have offered more advice then three weeks of going to the same pool store. So again thank you very much is it greatly appreciated.**
 
Looking back I see you got the TF-100. :goodjob: SO here's what I see on your latest tests:
- FC - Too low! Use the poolmath calculator to get that up ASAP. Refer to the Chlorine/CYA chart link in my sig for the correct number. Since you didn't post your current CYA, I can't tell you. :)
- CC of 2 means you have some organic matter in your pool and a SLAM may be in order
- PH saying "Low" doesn't help us. We must have the number based on the TF-100 reading. To prepare for a SLAM, your PH needs to be at 7.2

I would suggest when you get home, take your time and post a thorough set of numbers right away. Include all of them (FC, CC, PH, TA, CYA, and CH). We'll re-assess and go from there okay.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply