Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater 2002-Troubleshooting

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gfritz1

0
Jun 9, 2015
23
Saint Marys, PA
Having issues getting my Natural Gas Heater to light. I use to have a troubleshooting sheet that walk you down a decision tree but have misplaced it. Anyone now where to get on on net? Mine is a LG or Natural Gas and if I jump across TH the main valve will light and it will run for a period of time but eventually shutoff. I have cleaned all the contacts twice and still no luck . Yesterday tried to jump some of the other possible issue but no luck on getting it to fire on the pressure switch or the fuse connection . It does fire off if I jump across the two white wires on the terminal strip . This terminal strip has like 4 pairs of terminals. On one side you have what I think is the Fireman Terminal and on the other side think the white leads that come from the high limit switches . It appears to run until the temperature on the dial is reached. So is this telling me I have a bad high limit switch ? Why a 150F high limit and a 135high limit ? Help
 
Finally got at it today and was able to isolate both the 135 and 150 limit .If I put a jumper across the terminals inside the panel the heater will fire and function normally It will run until pool temperature is reached and shutoff .if I move the thermostat up it will fire and if I move down it shuts off. I eliminate the 135f and hooked the incoming wire and outgoing wire to the 150 and no luck so assume 150 was bad . Did the same with the 135 F and the same result as it did not fire . Rehooked the jumper and the unit fires. So I guess this is telling me that both are bad which really seams odd that both would fail at the same exact time ??????? Anything else I could be missing ? I assume that these limits do not have a in and out to them as nothing is marked ? Just making sure did not have something wired in wrong but assume these are like a thermistor that is set to open if a give temp is achieved and thus not a in or out ? I assume the purpose of these is to assure that in addition to pressure you also have flow .Thus if no flow but pressure you would elevate the water temperature and these protect you from going to steam. Why a 135 and a 150? Thanks
 
I have a 175000 BTU Laars Lite propane spa heater. It is about ten years old and was working fine last year. I winterized it by draining it (and the spa) last year. This spring when I filled it up and kicked it on, it won't stay lit. When the pump comes on, it clicks, I see the glow plug light up and it lights the propane as ot always did. But it only runs for about 10 seconds, and shuts off. Then after 20-30 seconds. it does it again, and repeats this until I turn off the pump. I can't figure out why it will light but not stay lit. I thought it might be the pressure switch or the pump not putting out enough pressure, or the filter being clogged. I cleaned the filter, and it didn't help. There seems to be plenty of water flow. I put a jumper on the pressure switch to see if it would stay on if the switch stayed connected. Nothing changed. I replaced the circuit board and thermometer board a couple of years ago, and put a new valve in. So the control systems are not as old as the heater. Any suggestions?
 
Finally . After looking at the wiring diagram again I realized my issue had to be not the hi limits but the terminal block where the two white leads from the hi limits attach. Did not see at first that they travel in and then through the fireman jumper to out .So when I thought what was being bypass was the two hi limits it was really the fireman jumper .Took everything off and sprayed contact cleaner and cleaned with sand paper and it now works like a charm . Thanks
 
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