Just filled my pool up, tested the water, now what?

SequoiaHosting · Nov 15, 2008

Hey All,

After the major black algae issue in the pool, I drained it and spent a few days cleaning it. Took the filter apart and the pumps, serviced them all and had the fun of putting them all back together. Anyway, now the pool is full and I have the below results....

FC = 0
TC = 0
PH = 7.8
TA = 70
Calcium Hardness = 65
CYA = 0

So from the above results I can determine I need chlorine, I am just wondering how much chlorine I should add to my pool to get it started? Should I just start adding several gallons of bleach and keep a close eye on it over the next few days? I looked up in the Pool School section but really could not find anything that would get me started.

By the way, I used my TF100 test kit for the first time and I was pretty impressed on how easy it all was! Just took my time and within 15 minutes had all the number above on my first try!

Thanks for all your help guys, its very much appreciated.

duraleigh · Nov 15, 2008

SH,

Where do you live and what are your plans for your pool over the winter? That determine what we recommend you do.

After you tell us that, read the ABC's of pool water chemistry. It'll give you some guidelines you're looking for.

Use Jason's calculator in my Sig to calculate your dosages after we get you headed in the right path to get your water where it needs to be.

SequoiaHosting · Nov 15, 2008

Thanks duraleigh for the quick reply. I am In Visalia, Central Valley in California. Not planning on using my pool until summer.

JasonLion · Nov 15, 2008

A good rule of thumb for pools that don't yet have any CYA is to add 2 ppm of chlorine each evening. As soon as you have some CYA in the water you can start testing and adjusting based on the FC target for your CYA level. However, if the water is really cold, below 60 degrees, you won't need nearly that much chlorine.

You need to start working on raising the calcium level right away. If you aren't going to be closing for the winter you will also want to work on the CYA level. There isn't any point in adding CYA if you are closing soon, but getting at least a bit more calcium in is important.

duraleigh · Nov 15, 2008

I'm with Jason on the calcium if your test results are correct.

Typically, you would get a calcium result in increments of 10 (100, 110, 130, etc).....not a 65 like you posted. Double check your method again.

SequoiaHosting · Nov 16, 2008

The Calcium test was a little tricky, it was between 60 and 70 (60 was a murky red color and 70 was red) so I guessed 65.

Thanks for your help guys!

gtm · Nov 16, 2008

SequoiaHosting said:
The Calcium test was a little tricky, it was between 60 and 70 (60 was a murky red color and 70 was red) so I guessed 65.

I'm certainly not one of the experts, but something seems a little odd here.

The Calcium Hardness (CH) test changes color from red to blue, so if yours is still showing red, then it seems that you might not've reached the endpoint. There has been a good bit of discussion here about the CH test being a little more difficult than the others, and Evan/waterbear fairly recently wrote up a (or quoted an earlier) very nice discussion about how to do it properly. I can' t locate that thread at the moment, but maybe someone else can find it for you.

Another thought is that the TA test changes color from green to red and it does look a little "murky red" a drop or two prior to reaching the rather bright red endpoint. Is it at all possible that you've mixed up the tests?

BTW, I have the Taylor 2006 kit, but I believe I've read here that the TF-100 chemistry is the same. If not, though, I might just be muddying the waters. I hope not, but I'm sure the experts will wade in soon.

Cheers, Gary