First time shocking pool going bad

[Mingman82]

So I wanted to shock the pool due to a green haze floating in the pool water. After a few days of research I started my shock last night. So mistake number one I went with the pool store guy about how much liquid chlorine to add to the pool which he said 3 cases (12 gal) plus an algae killer that has copper in it. I come home this morning after work and tested the fc to which I'm at 37.5. Is this a level I should be concerned with? I stupidly left the swg on also to help get the fc level up to which I now have off. The pool still has a green haze to it and when I checked my cya I am now at less than 30. Before the shock I was at 60 so I'm assuming the high levels is throwing off the cya as it cant lower itself without taking water out? Anyway I have the pool cover off to have the sun help burn off some chlorine and the pump is still running. Brushed the pool again to help kick up everything. Also I use the Taylor 2006 test kit.
After Shock:
FC: 37.5
CC: Didn't bother with
PH: Too high for reading (not accurate anyway) but did an acid test just to play around and it took 5 drops to get it at 7.5
Alkalinity: 80
Hardness: 400
CYA: less than 30

Before the shock:
FC: .2
CC: .5
AL: 80
PH: 7.5
CH: 400
CYA: 60

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!!

37.5 is just slightly above mustard algae shock level, so I'm not overly concerned about that, so lets move on....

We do not "shock" our pools, we follow the SLAM Process when there is a problem. Read through that and as long as you have an accurate test kit you can move forward with the SLAM.

 

[mrcarcrazy]

WHOA. I hope you turned the SWG off?

Anywho, there's not much you can do now, basically just a waiting game. I would still assume your CYA is 60 unless you partially drained and refilled.

Pool math on this site is a great tool. I'd suggest you use that instead of the pool store experts.

Now that you've hit it with so much chlorine, just keep it @ the slam level for CYA of 60 until you pass the three criteria to stop. Then let it fall down to target, and restart the SWG. retest CYA once chlorine levels are in a more appropriate place. You will likely want to raise it a little due to using a SWG (increase the lifespan of that expensive little bugger).

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Obviously that pool guy advocates the nuclear option to pool clearing. Avoid him.

Whatever damage to the liner has been done, so you're doing the right thing now. SWG off, pool uncovered, and Pool Owner Patience.


When FC gets down to 10 or less, recheck pH and CYA and then resume the SLAM the right way. You've got a good test kit, so you'll be able to handle it. In the meantime, take advantage of that high FC and brush brush brush. You know any algae you expose will be killed in a hurry.

I'll bet if you took a sample to that same pool store guy right now, he'd sell you Chlorine reducer!

 

[Mingman82]

Ok good thanks for the fast replies guy appreciate it! I can now go to bed worry free . Also quick question about my sand filter that you might know. After a backwash I'm usually at 10 psi and it wont move much past that for a good month or two. Is that normal to only have to back wash once or twice a season? (I live in Wisconsin, the season is short) And I did read the SLAM way before hand which is what my target was for fc to be at (24) but missed it by a few lol.

 

[tim5055]

Ok good thanks for the fast replies guy appreciate it! I can now go to bed worry free . Also quick question about my sand filter that you might know. After a backwash I'm usually at 10 psi and it wont move much past that for a good month or two. Is that normal to only have to back wash once or twice a season? (I live in Wisconsin, the season is short) And I did read the SLAM way before hand which is what my target was for fc to be at (24) but missed it by a few lol.

Some folks only backwash once a season.

Remember, the SLAM is an ongoing process, not a one time event. You test and adjust back to your shock level multiple times a day for as long as it takes. The key in SLAM is the "M", for Maintain.

Brush at least once a day to break up any algae that may have a biofilm protecting it from the chlorine.

 

[Richard320]

Ok good thanks for the fast replies guy appreciate it! I can now go to bed worry free . Also quick question about my sand filter that you might know. After a backwash I'm usually at 10 psi and it wont move much past that for a good month or two. Is that normal to only have to back wash once or twice a season? (I live in Wisconsin, the season is short) And I did read the SLAM way before hand which is what my target was for fc to be at (24) but missed it by a few lol.

Yes, once or twice a year is normal. It just depends on how much stuff blows into the pool and how much gets tracked in by dirty children. Just watch the gauge and the return flow. If all is well, all is well.

 

[Mingman82]

Well woke up about an hour ago new results.
FC: 16.5
CYA: still less than 30

Although pool is now a blue instead of green and I turned the swg back on.

 

[tim5055]

Well woke up about an hour ago new results.
FC: 16.5
CYA: still less than 30

Although pool is now a blue instead of green and I turned the swg back on.

If you are in the middle of a SLAM leave the SWG off and chlorinate with liquid.

Read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.

• CC is 0.5 or lower;
  
• You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
  
• The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

 

[Mingman82]

Update. Pool looks pretty good now thanks for the help. As for the chem part of it.
FC: 7.5
PH: 7
TA: 85
CA: too much metals to know for sure but guessing around 400 (well water)
CYA: still less than 30.
Guess I didn't do the cya test right before the slam. It's a new bottle of cyanuric acid. When I go to the store later today I'll have them test it too before I buy stabilizer. Also the pool was just put in last year if that matters.

 

[Texas Splash]

Just a couple concerns from your latest post:
- Are you still SLAMming? If so, your FC should be 12. If you have pass all 3 SLAM requirements as noted above, then you certainly can let it drop.
- PH seems low, but again if you are in the middle of a SLAM it won't read properly anyways.
- There's no CC reading this morning. It would be good to see that one
- CYA less than 30 means lots of FC lost to the sun. You probably know our feelings about going to the pool store for help on tests.

If I missed anything in your post or you need anything else, please let us know. Have a good day.

 

[Mingman82]

Sorry didn't think about CC as their was none/ 0. Different pool store. Done with slam met all three criterias. Stapped slamming Friday morning. Still letting the fc come down on its own. I did turn the swg on this morning though only because it's been raining for the last 3 days and another 2-3 in of rain today ( why I think there is a low ph also. )

Edit. I've been slamming at a fc of 24 so that's where it's coming down from.

 

[tim5055]

Sorry didn't think about CC as their was none/ 0. Different pool store. Done with slam met all three criterias. Stapped slamming Friday morning. Still letting the fc come down on its own. I did turn the swg on this morning though only because it's been raining for the last 3 days and another 2-3 in of rain today ( why I think there is a low ph also. )

Edit. I've been slamming at a fc of 24 so that's where it's coming down from.

Do you not have your own test kit???

 

[Mingman82]

Yes the Taylor 2006.

 

[tim5055]

Why do you keep talking about pool store testing?

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Instead of the pool store you can also head to Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart ... for stabilizer. You said you had a new bottle and it made me think maybe the pool store is selling you the $$$ liquid.
Liquid stabilizer is handy because you can add it and turn around and test but the granular is so much cheaper.