Green pool

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sealy99

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Jun 6, 2015
35
madisonville, tx
I've been fighting this pool for two weeks since firing the pool company. Although it looks better than a once a week treatment, it's still not there. Any help is appreciated.

40,000 gallons
FC/TC is 0 (after 10 gal of 8.25% bleach and 50 lbs of chlorine "shock" from Leslie's over the last two weeks.
PH is 7.5
TA is 230
CH is 120
CYA is 0

Pool is green and cloudy. Although, I can see the bottom now on the shallow end. An improvement over two weeks ago.
Running a Hayward Pro-Series sand filter
I've been bringing the chlorine up between 6-8 PPM, but it bottoms out after 2 to 3 days. I was fighting high PH til a week ago when I dropped two gallons of muriatic acid in it. It's maintained between 7.2 and 7.5 PH for a week now. Can't get the color and clarity out of it. I'm sure stabilizer will help, but I'd think with as much chlorine as I've put in it, lack of stabilizer would be over ridden by sheer volume. Thoughts?


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Sealy, welcome! The TFP crew can help, but first we need to confirm something ... do you have either the TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit? That is priority #1. Priority #2 is staying away from the local pool store and putting any more of their products into your pool. Example ... if you've been putting bags of shock from the pool store in your water, it's odd that your CYA would be 0. The test kits above read CYA and FC at levels that your pool store, test strips, or over the counter products don't do.

Please read the SLAM link below along with the Chlorine/CYA chart. Those are key to what you need to do as soon as you get one of those test kits. Welcome, and stay close for more replies.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. It is a Taylor test kit that has been rebranded with the pool stores label, but I couldn't tell you what model it is. It does read CYA via a test vial with reagents and a black dot inside the test vial on the bottom. I bought the shock in bulk as a 50 lb bucket that the label reads is 65% sodium hypochlorite. I'm doing the math on it now to determine whether $130 pencils better than buying 8.25% bleach.

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Your test kit might suffice. Others should confirm. But odd you have 0 CYA which usually comes from the pucks or store "shock" products. No FC is a bad thing too, probably getting tore-up from the algae and possibly low CYA. Can you try to confirm once more please the FC, CYA, and PH? Those 3 are critical to start the SLAM treatment should that be the next step.
 
Am I doing the math on this correctly? 50 lbs of shock at 65% = 32.5 lbs of chlorine. $130/32.5 lbs = $4 per lb of chlorine. VS 8.25% bleach at 2.99 per gal. 8.3 lbs × 6 = 50 lbs or 1/2 lb of chlorine for $18. $4 per lb for pool store granular vs $36 per lb for bleach? I'm missing something I'm sure


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No reading on the chlorine test. I was 2 ppm yesterday. No reading on the CYA test. I've tested it 4 times over the last two weeks and nothing each time. PH is roughly 7.5. Other useful information might be the pool is fed by well water. We had a leak issue up until about a month ago and the auto fill was running constantly it seemed. Might account though for no CYA over the last year.

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Going off your tests, and based on the condition of your water (green), you are a good candidate for the SLAM. Please make sure you understand the SLAM concept as it is not an overnight process. It can take days or even a week or two to correct the issue(s). But it DOES work. So here's your priority:
1 - CYA needs to be up to 30 to SLAM. Anything less and you lose the new chlorine to sun and algae before it works; too much more and you use more bleach
2 - Get/keep PH as close to 7.2 as possible in preparation to SLAM; once you start the SLAM, don't worry about PH until your are done
3 - Find your SLAM FC level on the Chlorine/CYA chart; use ONLY regular liquid bleach to raise your FC to that SLAM level and MAKE SURE it stays there! That's very important.

How long do you do this (SLAM)? You must meet ALL 3 criteria of: clear water, Overnight Free Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT) of no more that 1 FC, and CC reading of < .5.
- Your TA is high as well, but the SLAM should take priority right now.

It would also be good for you to update your profile with all of your pool/equipment info. At the top of the TFP page under the Pool School button, select "Settings", then on the next page look to the left menu for "Edit Signature".

Read-up on the SLAM link below and start getting some regular bleach from your local grocery store. You may go through quite a bit of it.

Final bit of advice: You seem to be confident to use your existing test set. If you have ANY doubt as to its accuracy, age, or ability to read CYA from 0-100, or FC from 0 - 50, you need to order a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 (link below). These kits are the foundation of everything we do to our pools. Any advice you receive here is only as good as the accuracy of the test set you are using. Can't stress that enough. Best of luck!
 
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