Do you have to drill a hole in the 3 port diverter valve so the panels drain down to pool? I have been reading everthing i could find, and that came up, it said Compol solar valve has it already, but i want to use a Janfy... Thank you
Solar Installation
- Thread starter boston62
- Start date
Pentair also has a solar 3 way with a check valve in it. You only might need the hole to help drain if you have a controller that turns off the solar valve when the pump shuts off.
You can also add a "bypass" between the solar supply and return pipes where they go up to the roof.
A bypass is another option that lets you control things somewhat, I went this way in conjunction with a drain valve.
The red valve is set to allow just a small bypass trickle, enough to slowly drain the section going up to the panels when the pump is off. You may also note the wire tied to the lever style drain valve. This wire was added after a small limb fell one night and bumped the valve partly open draining several inches of water from the pool. The pool equipment including the diverter valve is indoors behind the wall seen here.
The red valve is set to allow just a small bypass trickle, enough to slowly drain the section going up to the panels when the pump is off. You may also note the wire tied to the lever style drain valve. This wire was added after a small limb fell one night and bumped the valve partly open draining several inches of water from the pool. The pool equipment including the diverter valve is indoors behind the wall seen here.
Is there a problem leaving water in the panels when not in use? I guess it would get to hot without being circulated...
The solar sensor, I need about 30 feet to reach my panels, can I buy 15 ft and splice another section black & red wire I have some the same type...Thanks
The reason is more with allowing the water to drain out so it doesn't get too cold or freeze in the panels.
You can splice in an additional length on the sensor, just use a good marine grade splice that will not corrode and seal it with watertight splicing tape. This is important as corrosion in the connection will increase resistance of the circuit and result in false temperature readings.
Ike
p.s. another alternative would be to use gel splices like are used on phone lines
Ike
p.s. another alternative would be to use gel splices like are used on phone lines
Yes I seen those they are round you put the two wires in and press the button down. Thank you
I have 3 panels on one side of my roof i want to split it to the othrr side with 5 panels would i use 2" sched 40 pvc to split it over? Thanks
I would not close the valve all the way. You will probably hear it start to drain, Just leave it there as an "off" position rather than "hard off" like a faucet. When "off" your pump may push water a few feet up the pipe depending on head pressure, but it won't fill the cells.
It looks like when your system is off, both sides should drain OK. At least that's the plan A.
Plan B would be to add a vacuum break at the highest place in the panel system. But those can be tricky.
It looks like when your system is off, both sides should drain OK. At least that's the plan A.
Plan B would be to add a vacuum break at the highest place in the panel system. But those can be tricky.
I read i should drill a 1/4" hole in the diverter valve for draining when the pump shuts off..you ever hear of this? I think Pentair sells a 3 port solar valve with the hole it I use Jandy though. Thanks to everyone for the help, will post photo of what i am doing..
Yes, there are many threads discussing adding a hole, 1/4" is likely even bigger than you need.
Do you already have the solar 3-way installed? If not, then just use one that has the check valve built in.
And there is nothing mysterious or complicated about installing a VRV (vacuum release valve). You do need one to prevent a vacuum when the pump turns off causing damage to the cells. It can go just about anywhere in the system.
Do you already have the solar 3-way installed? If not, then just use one that has the check valve built in.
And there is nothing mysterious or complicated about installing a VRV (vacuum release valve). You do need one to prevent a vacuum when the pump turns off causing damage to the cells. It can go just about anywhere in the system.
There are pics of my solar setup and plumbing in my build thread in my sig. If you are looking for more pics.
I have no shut-off valves. Just the 3-way on the supply and the check valve on the return. I have a drain valve open all winter on the roof and never had any water up there, so they much be doing a good enough job isolating the solar.
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