With yellow/mustard algae, you have to completely eradicate it or it will come back because it takes higher minimum FC/CYA levels to keep it from growing because it's about twice as resistant to chlorine as green algae. You need to get behind light niches, under removable ladders, put in poles and other cleaning equipment, etc. and expose all of these to higher yellow//mustard SLAM levels. It is not generally blown in from air and usually comes from swimsuits used in lakes/ponds that have this algae. So be sure and thoroughly wash your swimsuits if you have used them elsewhere.
Also, when adding any concentrated chemical to the pool, you should do so slowly over a return flow and then brush the side and bottom of the pool where you've added the chemical. If you do not do this, then the concentrated chemical that is denser than water (until thoroughly mixed) can accumulate at the bottom of the pool and cause problems with vinyl. Though this is particularly true with acid, it can also happen with chlorine (though usually wrinkling of vinyl is associated with low pH, not with high chlorine). The regular SLAM level is around 10 times higher than the minimum FC/CYA level so a day at that level is like 10 days at the regular chlorine level while one week is like 10 weeks. The yellow/mustard SLAM level is around 23 times higher. So you don't want to do a SLAM for many weeks on end if it can be avoided.
If the yellow/mustard algae continues to come back in spite of your best efforts, then you can do last-resort methods: 1) maintain a higher 15% FC/CYA ratio, but that uses more chlorine and is 2.3x as much active chlorine, 2) use a phosphate remover to lower phosphates to 100 ppb or below (Orenda PR10,000 is more cost effective than most), but this can get expensive (though with your only 4600 gallon pool it probably won't be that much, or 3) use an algaecide, but many do not work well against yellow/mustard algae (not sure if Polyquat 60 would be effective and while copper is effective it can stain plaster surfaces and turn blond hair greenish). Note that some yellow/mustard algae products are sodium bromide and can turn the pool into a bromine pool which has its own set of issues so is not recommended.
Since you have such a small pool, changing the water would be an option, but then there's the question of where the algae nutrients got into your pool in the first place. Did you use metal sequestrant or other products in your pool? According to the New Orleans water quality report, they add lime (calcium carbonate) to raise the pH and calcium levels to lessen corrosion and they don't seem to add phosphates. So you should make sure that you actually do have yellow/mustard algae as opposed to either pollen or dirt. Is this dust only on the shady side of the pool or is it everywhere? If it's everywhere, then it's probably not algae and instead you just need better bottom circulation to get the material to the filter or you can just ignore it if it's not slippery.
Also, when adding any concentrated chemical to the pool, you should do so slowly over a return flow and then brush the side and bottom of the pool where you've added the chemical. If you do not do this, then the concentrated chemical that is denser than water (until thoroughly mixed) can accumulate at the bottom of the pool and cause problems with vinyl. Though this is particularly true with acid, it can also happen with chlorine (though usually wrinkling of vinyl is associated with low pH, not with high chlorine). The regular SLAM level is around 10 times higher than the minimum FC/CYA level so a day at that level is like 10 days at the regular chlorine level while one week is like 10 weeks. The yellow/mustard SLAM level is around 23 times higher. So you don't want to do a SLAM for many weeks on end if it can be avoided.
If the yellow/mustard algae continues to come back in spite of your best efforts, then you can do last-resort methods: 1) maintain a higher 15% FC/CYA ratio, but that uses more chlorine and is 2.3x as much active chlorine, 2) use a phosphate remover to lower phosphates to 100 ppb or below (Orenda PR10,000 is more cost effective than most), but this can get expensive (though with your only 4600 gallon pool it probably won't be that much, or 3) use an algaecide, but many do not work well against yellow/mustard algae (not sure if Polyquat 60 would be effective and while copper is effective it can stain plaster surfaces and turn blond hair greenish). Note that some yellow/mustard algae products are sodium bromide and can turn the pool into a bromine pool which has its own set of issues so is not recommended.
Since you have such a small pool, changing the water would be an option, but then there's the question of where the algae nutrients got into your pool in the first place. Did you use metal sequestrant or other products in your pool? According to the New Orleans water quality report, they add lime (calcium carbonate) to raise the pH and calcium levels to lessen corrosion and they don't seem to add phosphates. So you should make sure that you actually do have yellow/mustard algae as opposed to either pollen or dirt. Is this dust only on the shady side of the pool or is it everywhere? If it's everywhere, then it's probably not algae and instead you just need better bottom circulation to get the material to the filter or you can just ignore it if it's not slippery.
