Where to start? I took the cover off and removed the plugs. The water is green. I guess I need to know step by step what to do next.
Bought a house and got a pool
- Thread starter BillJ
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!1. Invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits
2. Run a full set of tests and post the results to see what needs adjusted.
3. Make adjustments
4. Follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to clear up the green.
Here is some other info:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Need to lower water level. The power center is off and the pda shows "waiting". I ordered a tf-50 test kit.
Do you already have a good pH test?
You should add the XL option if you have a green pool.
What are you lowering the water level?
You should add the XL option if you have a green pool.
What are you lowering the water level?
Don't know how good ph test is (Pentair) or how old. I did a test without running the pumps and it looks like a ph of 8.2
What is XL option?
Lowering 1 1/2 inches.
What is XL option?
Lowering 1 1/2 inches.
You need a new pH test ... the TF-100 includes it.
The XL option (from tftestkits.net ... is that where you ordered?) adds more of the FAS-DPD reagents that you will need for the SLAM.
The XL option (from tftestkits.net ... is that where you ordered?) adds more of the FAS-DPD reagents that you will need for the SLAM.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,726
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The "XL Option" is for when/if you order the TF-100 so that you can get additional product(s) to measure the FC/CC. You go through quite a bit of it when starting a SLAM. Also consider requesting the "speed stir" that mixes the solution for you. Very nice. (Link below). To be accurate with TFP, you really do need this kit. It pays for itself in the long run.
I did the testing with TF-50 test kit.
showed no chlorine
CH 275
TA 80
CYA 19
Did PH test with Pentair test kit
PH 7.2
showed no chlorine
CH 275
TA 80
CYA 19
Did PH test with Pentair test kit
PH 7.2
How did you get a CYA of 19? Usually you take multiple readings and pick the nearest 10ppm.
I would add another 10ppm of CYA and then start following the SLAM process using bleach.
BTW, you should order some more FAS-DPD reagents before you run out while SLAMing.
I would add another 10ppm of CYA and then start following the SLAM process using bleach.
BTW, you should order some more FAS-DPD reagents before you run out while SLAMing.
I now have the chemicals needed for SLAMing. Bleach, washing soda, baking soda, stabilizer.
In what order should I add them to the pool?
Should I run the Polaris?
In what order should I add them to the pool?
Should I run the Polaris?
You don't need baking soda ... your TA is fine.
Which is why we do not recommend trying to stock up on chemicals ... just buy what you know you need.
If your CYA is 20ppm, then I would add another 10ppm into a sock and get it dissolving.
Then assuming your pH is still around 7.2, start adding bleach and following the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process
Which is why we do not recommend trying to stock up on chemicals ... just buy what you know you need.
If your CYA is 20ppm, then I would add another 10ppm into a sock and get it dissolving.
Then assuming your pH is still around 7.2, start adding bleach and following the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,726
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Bill, to prepare for a SLAM, you should validate the following:
- Adjust PH to 7.2 - 7.5; don’t worry about it after that during the SLAM
- Ideal CYA should be 30; the higher the CYA, the more bleach required
- Have a good amount of “regular” liquid bleach on-hand to keep your FC high at all times
Next, use the Chlorine/CYA chart (link in my sig) to bring your FC up to the proper SLAM level rating based on your current CYA and make sure it stays there (MAINTAIN) until you meet ALL 3 criteria listed above! That may take just a few days or even a week or two! That is absolutely critical for success.
At the same time, continue to run your pump 24/7. Remove any “muck” and debris, scrub all parts of your pool to expose any algae, and vacuum/clean (or backwash) filter as necessary. You may have to do this several times. It's a lot of babysitting, but with patience and consistency, you will succeed.
If you have ANY questions, just ask.
- Adjust PH to 7.2 - 7.5; don’t worry about it after that during the SLAM
- Ideal CYA should be 30; the higher the CYA, the more bleach required
- Have a good amount of “regular” liquid bleach on-hand to keep your FC high at all times
Next, use the Chlorine/CYA chart (link in my sig) to bring your FC up to the proper SLAM level rating based on your current CYA and make sure it stays there (MAINTAIN) until you meet ALL 3 criteria listed above! That may take just a few days or even a week or two! That is absolutely critical for success.
At the same time, continue to run your pump 24/7. Remove any “muck” and debris, scrub all parts of your pool to expose any algae, and vacuum/clean (or backwash) filter as necessary. You may have to do this several times. It's a lot of babysitting, but with patience and consistency, you will succeed.
If you have ANY questions, just ask.
I got the baking soda because the poolmath said it was needed.
- - - Updated - - -
Then I should run the Polaris to vacuum the pool?
- - - Updated - - -
Then I should run the Polaris to vacuum the pool?
PoolMath does not tell you to do anything. It simply calculates the required chemicals to reach the target levels that you input.
After four hours into the SLAM here are the test results:
FC 11
CC 7.5
TC 18.5
CH 250
TA 70
CYA 20? The black dot never did go away.
FC 11
CC 7.5
TC 18.5
CH 250
TA 70
CYA 20? The black dot never did go away.
