High Phosphate!

[Shannonrn2]

Had my water testing at pool place today. I have a 20,000 gal in ground pool, new as of Sept 2014. I do have a stubborn green alge that likes to
cling to sides and in light sockets. Is resistant to shock treatment. The pool water is nice and clear however.
Total Chlorine 5.6
Free Chlorine 3.7
pH 7.4
Total Alkalinity 80
Calcium Hardness 210
Stabilizer 40
Phosphate **>2500.0 (wow)
Shock treatment 1.9
The recommended using Phosfree, 2L to start, clean filter prior and after 2 weeks.
Does this sound reasonable?
Can we still enjoy the pool during this process?
Thank you for any help

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

To be blunt, it sounds like a bunch of BS.

Return the PhosFree junk.
Order one of the Recommended Test Kits and then follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to rid yourself of algae.

The phosphate level does not matter in a properly chlorinated pool. And the proper FC level is a function of the stabilizer (CYA) level according to the FC/CYA Chart.

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

 

[BoDarville]

 

[TomBorg]

Had my water testing at pool place today.

Sadly, that is your main problem. Pool store testing is often woefully inaccurate, and they use it to sell you expensive stuff that you don't need. What we teach here is that you should do your own testing using one of the recommended test kits. It is a small investment that can save you hundreds of dollars a year, just from NOT buying all the crud that the pool store tries to push on you.

If you have algae, the one-time shock that the pool stores suggest almost never works; since it doesn't kill off all of the algae, the algae comes back with a vengeance as soon as the chlorine level drops down again. As jblizzle said, you need to follow the SLAM process, which will make certain the algae is gone. But to do the SLAM correctly, you need one of the recommended test kits, with extra chlorine testing reagents.

You mentioned that algae likes to form near the lights in your pool. It is common for algae to grow BEHIND the light, because it is protected the from the pool circulation. Then it migrates to the rest of the pool as soon as the chlorine level drops low enough. Solution: Hop in the pool, remove the light fixture (one screw at the top, don't lose the screw), and use a brush to clean all the gunk out from the light niche.

The phosfree is expensive and not needed. Will it hurt? Not the pool, just your pocketbook.

Can you swim during the process? Sure, you can swim after adding phosfree, if you decide to add it. You can swim during a SLAM if your free chlorine is at or below the shock level for your CYA level. But pool store testing is notoriously bad with the CYA test, so, again, you'll want one of the recommended test kits to do your own testing at home.

 

[Richard320]

Little known fact: The makers of Phosfree specify that it shouldn't be added to a pool with algae. Click on the instructions and scroll down to the last note and see for youirself.

Sort of makes you wonder about what else the pool store is getting wrong just to make sales, huh?

google cloudy after phosfree or something like that and you'll get lots of hits.

The money spent on phosfree could be better spent on a proper test kit. And all you need to kill algae is bleach, brishing, and patience.

Some inspirational threads. work backwards up the list to see the most recent ones. Your pool can't look worse than some of those before pictures.

 

[Shannonrn2]

Thanks everyone, I'm on it. Returning the Phosfree and investing in test kit, chlorine and brush! I'll let you know how it works out in a few days

 

[Beens]

Congratulations! You're on your way to taking control of your pool. Wait until you see just how easy it can be. Definitely come and post your test results here when your new kit arrives. There's plenty of people here waiting to help!

 

[TomBorg]

Just as an aside... There are some pool treatments (such as for removing metal stains) that require you to let your chlorine level to drop to almost 0. This is pretty much the only time you need to consider using PhosFree and/or a copper-free algaecide to prevent an algae bloom. So, yes, PhosFree does have occasional value. You just don't need it right now.

 

[Shannonrn2]

Thanks to everyone for your input, I've returned the Phosfree, I now have my TF100 and here are my results.
CHL 3ppm
FC 3
CC 0.5
Ph 7.5
CYA 50
Calc 275
ALK 90
I also just learned (by accident) that my UV system was not turned on and my Fusion 2 mineral system needed a cartridge replacement.
My Algae problem has decreased a little since the UV was started, I'll see if the mineral cartridge helps too (once it gets here), BTW it was very expensive
I was instructed by the pool guy who did the start-up last Sept. (who also didn't connect the UV) that I need to keep my chlorine at 2ppm. I have the Tab system
so I can just turn the dial up to 3 or 4 when we have a lot of swimmers
As for the alkalinity of 90 I am trying to follow the Pool math help tool so I will follow the suggestion of Baking Soda or Borax? Any preference?

 

[Richard320]

If your pool is outdoors in the sun, you don't need UV. The sun will give you plenty for free. No need to fill the coffers of PG&E.

The mineral pack is also unnecessary and undesirable. Given time, metal levels will build up and you might start seeing stains on the walls and green-haired swimmers. Alternative sanitizers and pools--The Truth!!

PS: Your readings right now look good, aside from FC below minimum. I wouldn't touch pH or TA.

 

[tim5055]

I would not use that tab feeder, but would start using liquid chlorine products or investigate a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. Your CYA is now at the top of the recommended range for a non-salt pool and each tab continues to add chlorine.

Additionally, I would return the mineral cartrdge. As Richard pointed out, Mineral = metals Copper can stain the pool surfaces and can turn blonde hair green.

Read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
The water is clear

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

How much Pool School have you read? We need to un-learn some of the stuff pool stores have taught you over the years. Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

 

[DaninFLA]

Thanks everyone, I'm on it. Returning the Phosfree and investing in test kit, chlorine and brush! I'll let you know how it works out in a few days

wow, congrats! I wish more people would be as open minded and willing to break the pool store cycle as you are. you are quickly on your way to an algae free, crystal clear pool!