TFP/BBB and that is all???

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JamesR

JamesR

Gold Supporter
May 18, 2015
337
Nazareth/PA
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Doing my best to get this BBB thing correct for my pool this year. Very helpful site here and I learned a lot about CYA/Chlorine relationship. Also learned a bit about the Calcium saturation index and ll of the little things that affect it, (pH, TA, CH....)
One question though, do you folks never add a weekly algecide like ALL-60 or "Pool Perfect/Phos free" or monthly does of scale/stain free? No weekly maintenance products?
 
I never add algesides or phosfree now that I have TFP there is No need for it.

I do unfortunately still add scale free. The reason is my CH is very high. Don't have access to different water to bring it down. I tried going without the scale free after my SLAM and my SWG cell quickly scaled bad. I cleaned my cell a week ago and added scale free and not a sign of scale or calcium build up on cell at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Please note that this is my choice and not a recomended additive per TFP.
 
Never.

In five years my pool has had nothing but bleach, muriatic acid, and trichlor pucks added to it. The pucks were when I was out of town. My fill water is naturally hard, so I've never needed to raise pH, TA, or CH. Never had cloudy water, never turned green, never closed for the winter. We really don't have winter in SoCal.
 
Only my second full year of TFP and I've only added bleach and muriatic acid during regular maintenance. I have high TA fill water so never any need to add baking soda. No weekly shocks, no algaecide, no pho$free, no magic bullets, no problems... other than lots of maple whirlygig seeds this year.
 
Wow, if that method works up here in the NE, that should save me some $$$
I may pick your brains come closing time before fall/winter arrives. I usually go heavy on the algecide right before the safety cover goes on. It is mesh and all sorts of stuff get in there over 8 months.
 
JamesR said:
Wow, if that method works up here in the NE, that should save me some $$$
I may pick your brains come closing time before fall/winter arrives. I usually go heavy on the algecide right before the safety cover goes on. It is mesh and all sorts of stuff get in there over 8 months.
Click to expand...

Follow the closing/opening recommendations on this forum and you'll be amazed at how easy it can be.
 
Richard320 said:
Never.

In five years my pool has had nothing but bleach, muriatic acid, and trichlor pucks added to it. The pucks were when I was out of town. My fill water is naturally hard, so I've never needed to raise pH, TA, or CH. Never had cloudy water, never turned green, never closed for the winter. We really don't have winter in SoCal.
Click to expand...
I pretty much am in the same water situation as Richard, except I do get Winter, so I close. In 2009 I added a Polyquat algaecide at closing (I was still new and thought I still needed it) but since then I have not added anything but liquid chlorine, acid, and pucks on occasion. I have opened to perfectly clear water every year since. YMMV because of the mesh cover, but plenty of experience in that on the forum so feel free to ask around.

One reason (among many) that TFP now calls the method taught here TFPC instead of BBB is to avoid people running out to buy borax and baking soda and dumping it in to their pool. It is a pool care technique, as well as a philosophy. You test, you add only what is needed, and your entire pool care vision changes. Suddenly the pools that people call clear look cloudy to you. You really notice the chlorine smell of other pools because your pool doesn't have that (even thought your FC is probably double theirs). The shimmer of your water will almost blind you on a sunny day but you just throw on some sunglasses and smile.

Oh yeah, and the significant savings helps too (my upkeep is about 1/5th the previous cost, but it varies).
 
Sounds great! Looking forward to see how this season goes. I will forgo the weekly algecide and other maintenance additives I have been using for 15 years in this pool and see how it goes. I am armed with the TF-100 kit and splurged for the power magnetic stirrer. :)
 

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JamesR said:
Sounds great! Looking forward to see how this season goes. I will forgo the weekly algecide and other maintenance additives I have been using for 15 years in this pool and see how it goes. I am armed with the TF-100 kit and splurged for the power magnetic stirrer. :)
Click to expand...
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

We have folks all over PA using the system with great results. 15 years of habits are hard to break. You weekly algecide didn't contain copper, did it?

Also, to give TFP a fair shake can you please verify the pool doesn't have anything hiding in it by conducting an Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT). This is usually best conducted with an elevated FC, above 5 but closer to 10 helps.
 
The caveat to us folks that close our pools for the winter is that you MUST open early and close late. If you wait until June to open your pool, you'll have a problem. The pool should be opened before the water temp reaches 60 degrees and should be closed in the fall once the temperature is consistently below 60 degrees. 60 degrees is a good rule of thumb for algae growth. They will only grow/reproduce very slowly at temperatures 60 and below, much faster above 60 degrees. This is why we open early, close late. And at a lower cost that pool store methods, it's no big deal to maintain the pool for a few extra weeks. Especially at colder temperatures where FC usage is generally lower.
 
Yep, my first season with new plaster a month ago and totally doing BBB method. Pool looks like diamonds dancing on sparkling water. Was in pool store yesterday to get reagent I was out of and couldn't believe how many people were in there buying all those high dollar chemicals. One employee ask me how my pool was looking and I told him awesome cause I use the BBB method. He looked at me with a frown. Maybe he didn't want other customers to hear and would potentially start losing sales..haha
 
I am on well with iron, so the only thing other than liquid chlorine and muriatic acid I use is Metal Magic to avoid metal staining.

If you've historically treated with Metal magic or Jack's magic to sequester metals, that's the only product you'd need to continue ;)
 
tim5055 said:
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

We have folks all over PA using the system with great results. 15 years of habits are hard to break. You weekly algecide didn't contain copper, did it?

Also, to give TFP a fair shake can you please verify the pool doesn't have anything hiding in it by conducting an Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT). This is usually best conducted with an elevated FC, above 5 but closer to 10 helps.
Click to expand...

No copper as far as I ever knew,...SunGuard algecide-60
I will do the OCLT either tonight or tomorrow night weather depending. Got big storms rolling through.
 
I have a solid safety cover. Closed at the end of October per the closing methods on here, opened at the end of March, and still had FC of 6. Never add any algaecide or any pool store magic bullets. Follow the methods here, and you'll be amazed at the clarity of your pool compared to what people normally consider clear pools. Literally looks like diamonds shimmering on a sunny day. It's awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well, just to jump in here. Starting our 4th swim season with the pool. Never "shocked" or added anything to our pool other than bleach, salt, muriatic acid, borax and epsom salt. Pool water has been crystal clear the entire time.
 
JamesR said:
Wow, if that method works up here in the NE, that should save me some $$$
Click to expand...
Well it does and it will save you moeny. This is my third year following TFP method and since I have never...
1) added algecide
2) never needed to "shock" or for that mater SLAM my poople
3) opened to a swamp
As for opening and closing, I now close in early October and although I don't take my cover off until early May I now set up-my pump and get the water circulating in early April adding chlorine as needed.
 

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