Please Help-Green, Hazy Water and Zero Free Chlorine since 5/18/15 =-(

[JenMazz]

I have just moved into a house in December. It has an in ground pool - 11,500 gallons - Fiberglass. 14x32 size with 3 to 6 feet. We opened the pool May 18, 2015. It was a clear green & I noticed didn't smell great. I chalked it up to it being a chlorine pool. (our previous house, we had a chlorine pool & converted to salt & it was vinyl in ground and was 16,500 gallons - never had a problem like this one we are encountering with our new pool)


Pool company opened pool - we ended up losing a lot of water b/c the pool person didn't set the pumps properly so every time the pool was off, the water level dropped significantly. This happened twice until I figured out that the drain wasn't set on the right dial.


We wanted to swim but I was weary b/c of the clear green water & the slight strange odor. So before our first swim, we took water sample to Leslie's to get it tested. Here were the results:
FAC = 0
TAC=0
CH= 0
CYA=100
TA=70
PH=7.2
Copper=0
Iron=0
TDS = 500
Pho=100


They told us to put in 16 lbs of Hardness and 2 lbs of Alkalinity Up and shock the pool. That night, I put in 2 bags of shock and then the 16 lbs of hardness. The water within less than 20 min turned very dark green. We called the pool store. They said it was my fault for putting in both chemicals too close in time.


The store said to bring another water sample. I did. This time they said that there was copper in the water and that is why it turned green and to use Metal Out. Over the period of about 5 days, I used Metal Out on 4 days @ $26/bottle (until I realized I could get it on Amazon for $10/bottle) It took 4 bottles of Metal Out to clear the pool BUT the FC was still 0. The pool store told me to shock the pool. I did with 1 bag of shock AND it turned green again! A much lighter green but still turned green. They said to continue to add Metal Out. I did - and also did research on your website. I added Arm & Hammer baking soda pool tabs Clear Balance to my skimmer and I added Super Blue.


Still green and hazy. We did swim in it twice - I couldn't enjoy it b/c it still wasn't right. My husband went under wanter with goggles and said it was very hazy. Took pool sample today 5/31 to pool store - here were the readings:
FAC = 0 (was 0)
TAC=0 (was 0)
CH= 300(was 0)
CYA=60 (was 100)
TA=80 (was 70)
PH=7.3 (was 7.2)
Copper=0 (was 0)
Iron=0 (was 0)
TDS = 800 (was 500)
Pho=300 (was 100)


I re-explained that the water is still green and hazy and I noted that the white fiber glass pool looks like it now has a slight yellow tint on it. Not sure if that means anything. So pool store told me to add 2 gallons of liquid chlorine & run filter and re-test tomorrow and bring in another sample. I added 2 gallons of the liquid chlorine - pool turned MORE green and more hazy! (needless to say, my husband is really angry- he wants to just stop adding anything and let it run) I don't think that will solve anything though either. =-(


We have been pretty much running the pump NON STOP! (not looking forward to electric and water bill!) We have the paperwork from original owner that this is a 1.5 HP Pump and Motor Energy Saving and Sand Filter.


Can anyone help? We have never had this type of issue with our old salt pool. Can't wait to have the $$ to convert this chlorine pool to salt.


Thank you!!!!
Jen

 

[Azgirl71]

First welcome to TFP!
I am sorry the pool store is just there to make money. If you really want to have your pool looking beautiful, stay out of the pool store.

Step 1. Order a recommended test kit such as the TF 100 linked in my signature. It will bethebest investment you make for your pool.

Step 2. Familiarize yourself with Pool School
ABC's of pool water chemestry
Recommended levels
The SLAM process ( you will be doing this)

Step 3. Familiarize yourself with pool math. ( you will be using it to determine how much bleach to add)

You have no FC that is why your pool is not doing well. You most likely have a small algae bloom.

I will be back to post links for you.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry


Recommended Pool Chemicals

PoolMath

SLAMing Your Pool

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!!

Can I assume Langhorne is in PA? Many times answers to questions rely on your climate, so having the State in your profile location helps.

What you have been going through is what we lovingly refer to as being "Pool Stored". Every time you go in they are going to sell you another over priced potion swearing it will clear up your problem.

First of all if you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

So, we believe in accurate testing with our own quality test kit. I recommend you order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

I am a little confused. Clear green water generally denotes metals, but they tested "0" for the two most common; copper & iron. But, they sold you metal out....

The other funny thing, on the tests they showed your CYA going down from 100 to 60. CYA only goes down in a few days that much if you replaced 40% of your water. Did you?

But, I'm talking in circles. I think we have proven the pool store is not your friend.

Order your test kit, and if you feel you must be dong something add a bottle of bleach to the pool each day until the test kit arrives. Or, don't add anything. if you order in the morning you should have it in a few days as they ship from Raleigh, NC.

 

[JenMazz]

Thank you both! - I will get the test kit today.
1. Yes, I know, copper tested 0 but still sold Metal Out.
2. No, I have not replaced 40% of water. We only added water when the pump was left in the wrong position and the water dropped about a foot and we added then to bring up to middle of skimmer.
3. Yes, Langhorne is in PA. (I'm 3 min from Sesame Place, if you are familiar w/that water park) I'll add PA to location.

AM Update: Pool is still very green this AM. My 2 neighbors have pools and theirs are beautiful - so it shouldn't be copper in the water....
Just did a quick test of what I have - the test strips - FC is now 10 (first time showing any FC) - meanwhile, when I went to do that test, we kept thinking there was constant dirt at the bottom of the pool - I just noticed it looks like sand. Is that from our filter? Oh, and now TC is also 10, Alk is 80, PH is 7.8 and TH is 450.

My husband doesn't want me putting any more chemicals in so I'll wait to get the new test kit instead of adding bleach. I look at everything that has been put in that pool and I feel like I need to do a complete water change - I have a 22 month old and 4 yr old - I'd be devastated if I put them in harms way from a swimming pool.

Thanks,
Jen
PS: Ordered test kit from Amazon with same day delivery - will get it today around 4:00.

 

[BoDarville]

+1 to what the other responders said about pool store testing being virtually worthless.

While you are waiting for your kit, I'll make a plug for reading the articles that Azgirl71 referenced. I'll add one more: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. Understand the relationship between chlorine and CYA and you'll avoid most of the problems that plague pool owners who do not follow our methods. You'll soon see that you only need a handful of chemicals to maintain a pool properly. Randomly dumping in chemicals and expecting a miracle usually leads to frustration & disappointment.

 

[JenMazz]

Thank you! I printed out all the articles so I could read them & put them in my pool folder. The test kit didn't arrive yet for some reason. FedEx still says "out for delivery." I guess I will get it tomorrow and then test then. I'll write in tomorrow after I test. Still very green. =-( Thanks, Jen

 

[Swampwoman]

Welcome. Sorry you've gotten the pool store runaround, but glad you've landed here.

In the mean time, if you're able, it might help to post a picture of the pool, and to add to your signature what knd of filter you have.

Some of the green could be from a lack of proper chlorine levels (hence algae) but some of it could be metals, which can sometimes show either when the ph gets high, or, ironically, when you shock/slam the pool, which can oxidize the metal and give the water a tint. Metals can come from source water or using products, like algicides with copper, etc.

That can all be sorted out by getting the water clear in terms of algae and then clear in terms of tint, but the first order of business will be to find out what your CYA level really is.

Cheers to (eventual) clear

 

[JenMazz]

Thank you, I updated my signature. Still waiting for pool test kit! Here are photos from when opening until today. Started with light clear green, added 2 bags of shock and hardness, turned very green, added metal out (4 bottles), pool cleared pretty much- took a long time, no FC, added 1 bag of shock - turned light green - added another bottle of metal out - no change - added arm & hammer pool tabs to skimmer - no change - added super blue - no change - added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine - yesterday showed I now have FC (but waiting for the proper test kit to arrive to retest) Here are the photos. Also, I noticed there is sand at the bottom of the pool?

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you, I updated my signature. Still waiting for pool test kit! Here are photos from when opening until today. Started with light clear green, added 2 bags of shock and hardness, turned very green, added metal out (4 bottles), pool cleared pretty much- took a long time, no FC, added 1 bag of shock - turned light green - added another bottle of metal out - no change - added arm & hammer pool tabs to skimmer - no change - added super blue - no change - added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine - yesterday showed I now have FC (but waiting for the proper test kit to arrive to retest) Here are the photos. Also, I noticed there is sand at the bottom of the pool? I named them via the date they were taken. Looks like it doesn't display though. Top left with the bubbles is today's photo.

 

[Azgirl71]

Once you have your test kit, it should not be long at all. Just vaccume dirtt out.

 

[JenMazz]

Still waiting for test kit. Called the delivery company - they are supposed to deliver it today. Ugh. Meanwhile, I used my test strip and I still have FC - can't wait to get the test kit though to test everything! Pool still very green and hazy. I'll keep you posted. Thank you!

 

[JenMazz]

Just got test kit!!!! Going to test today!!! Will reply with results. Stay tuned. Thanks, Jen

 

[Azgirl71]

Yay!

 

[tim5055]

Just got test kit!!!! Going to test today!!! Will reply with results. Stay tuned. Thanks, Jen

Great!! Waiting to see the numbers.

 

[JenMazz]

Ok, here are my results but I need help with understanding how to test the Chlorine - the steps are confusing to me. I did test the following:
PH = 7.4
Cyanuric Acid Test was 18 ppm (but a little above the 18)
Calcium Hardness was 350 ppm
Total Alkalinity was 40 ppm

For chlorine, it says rinse and fill large comparator tube to desired mark with water to be tested. The other tests told me what to fill the water level to. It says for 1 drop = 0.2 ppm, use 25 ml sample. For 1 drop = 0.5 ppm, use 10 ml sample - how do I know which to pick? The little scooper and bottle says that it is .5 grams for 1 drop - so do I fill the water level to 10 ml?

Thanks and LMK what you think of the other numbers. Pool still an awful green.
Jen

 

[Azgirl71]

Yes, use the 10ml amount and multiply by .5

 

[JenMazz]

Ok, Here are the results:
PH = 7.4
Cyanuric Acid Test was 18 ppm (but a little above the 18)
Calcium Hardness was 350 ppm
Total Alkalinity was 40 ppm
Chlorine: (added 2 dippers to 10 ml - turned pink right away) so it says free chlorine is present.
Added 0871 until turned clear - that took 30 drops (30x10) = 300 ppm free chlorine
Added 5 drops of 003 - very very slight pink
Added 2 drops until the very slight pink turned clear of 871, 2x10 = 20 ppm combined chlorine

So what does that tell us???
Thank you
Jen

 

[poolneophyte]

When using a 10ML sample, you multiply the number of drops by 0.5 to get the CL levels. Your results are FC=15 and CC=1.

 

[JenMazz]

Oh, ok, thank you. I see I used the wrong number. Thanks!
So does the science behind the numbers explain the green water and what is needed to clear it all up?
Thank you,
Jen
Corrected Calculations:
PH = 7.4
Cyanuric Acid Test was 18 ppm (but a little above the 18)
Calcium Hardness was 350 ppm
Total Alkalinity was 40 ppm
Chlorine: (added 2 dippers to 10 ml - turned pink right away) so it says free chlorine is present.
Added 0871 until turned clear - that took 30 drops (30x.5) = 15 ppm free chlorine
Added 5 drops of 003 - very very slight pink
Added 2 drops until the very slight pink turned clear of 871, 2x.5 = 1 ppm combined chlorine

 

[Swampwoman]

Hi Jen!
Given the wild differences between the two pool store readings and now your own much lower cya reading, you might want to double check the cya reading a few times, be sure the sun is to your back, etc. (I have a hard time with the cya test and regularly pour it back into the bottle and into the tube again several times to make sure I'm getting the same response.)

I can't figure out why your cya would be going down when normally nothing except draining would dilute it. Since cya is the basis of what you'll want your FC to be its worth double checking.

Here's a video: Testing Cyanuric Acid with the TF-100 - YouTube

Be sure to pist back your new cya tests...as either confirmation or the ASIs for a slightly different course.


Regarding your pictures, you mean the cloudy bluish with bubbles in the top left of the first set is how it looks now, not clear like the bottom picture? Right?

If so, once you nail down your cya level and determine its within slam range, rpthen you'll follow the slam process until clear. Whatever color, it should be clear like the very last picture.

After you've cleared the cloudiness, passed the overnight chlorine loss test, etc. and gotten everything stable, that would be the time to add one of either Metal magic or Jacks magic to sequester metal and remove any tint to the water or the faint yellowing you mentioned.

Those metal sequestrants only work right at a low- ish chlorine level, so shouldn't be added during a slam. You're also not supposed to slam for a week after either.

I don't think you're too far off now that you'll be able to test accurately and dose properly so cheers to clear soonish!

 

[JenMazz]

Thank you so much. I will retest and repost results. I was able to redo the Cyanuric acid test 3x and it still came up as 18 ppm. Here is a current photo of the pool. I can't retest the rest right now this morning though, have to go to work but will do it when I get home.