Help Hayward H100D Propane not igniting

JWP1016 · May 30, 2015

My heater for whatever reason will no longer ignite. The ignition does spark and I smell gas so assume the gas valve is opening but no ignition as the blow is only blowing cold. Please help on where i should look next. Below is what I have checked. I have 100ilb propane tank and it is about 1/4 to 1/2 full.

Ignition does spark.
120V to Xformer and 24v from Xformer to Gas Valve on/off switch.
All Tubes are clean and clear of derbies.

Help!!!

danpik · May 30, 2015

Well, you need three things for fire. Air, Ignition and Fuel. Since we can assume you have spark as you indicated you did, it can only be one of the other two. If the blower is blowing and it is moving air then that only leaves fuel. Are you sure all the orifices are clear at the front of the burner tubes? This is where the spiders like to build nests

BoDarville · May 30, 2015

danpik said:
Are you sure all the orifices are clear at the front of the burner tubes? This is where the spiders like to build nests

+1. This is where I would focus my search.

JWP1016 · May 30, 2015

I will remove and double check. Just be sure below is where I am focusing? Red arrows are pointing to area?

BoDarville · May 30, 2015

A little hard to tell from the pic, but if the arrows are pointing at the burner tubes, that's one place to check. Another place to check is the pilot tube. There should be a small access hole in the pilot tube. Use compressed air at between 20-30 PSI to clean those out. Avoid using needles or similar objects to clean these out. Can use one of those compressed air canisters used to clean computer keyboards and the like. If you go with the compressed air canisters, find one with a needle-extender (looks like a small straw). Most should have this.

JWP1016 · May 30, 2015

Yes the arrow point to the gas ports that insert into the tubes. I will clean both to be safe.

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andyrob2215 · May 30, 2015

I'm in a similar situation but I am not getting any spark.
I have read in your situation if you cannot get it working after you clean it, there is a gas adjustment screw that could be adjusted if absolutely necessary. But only if you are comfortable doing so.

andyrob2215 · May 30, 2015

Also, where did you get those detailed pictures?

ps0303 · May 31, 2015

andyrob2215 said:
I'm in a similar situation but I am not getting any spark.
I have read in your situation if you cannot get it working after you clean it, there is a gas adjustment screw that could be adjusted if absolutely necessary. But only if you are comfortable doing so.

In all of my years I have rarely ever needed to adjust the gas valve on a heater because it wouldn't light. Now I have made adjustments to a regulator as it wasn't supplying enough gas but even that is on the rare side as well.

Unless you have the proper equipment to measure the gas flow you shouldn't be touching anything in regards to the flow of gas.

JWP1016 · May 31, 2015

ps0303 said:
In all of my years I have rarely ever needed to adjust the gas valve on a heater because it wouldn't light. Now I have made adjustments to a regulator as it wasn't supplying enough gas but even that is on the rare side as well.

Unless you have the proper equipment to measure the gas flow you shouldn't be touching anything in regards to the flow of gas.

I got Pic's from on line. Just Googled H1001d PDF. Also I am not comfortable or knowledged enough to try to adjust the gas especially since it worked last week. I will disassemble and clean again looking for the pilot pin hole.

danpik · May 31, 2015

andyrob2215 said:
there is a gas adjustment screw that could be adjusted if absolutely necessary. But only if you are comfortable doing so.

Please don't offer advice like this. I have been in the home heating repair business for almost 40 years and in all that time, working on furnaces, boilers and pool heaters I have only adjusted one or two gas valves (Not counting Pilot Adjustments) and I suspect that these were all due to someone else messing with them prior to my working on them. Gas valves have no user serviceable parts and for the most part are fairly reliable. If the unit is not working properly there is most likely an underlying, simple, reason. You just need to find it. In the case of the OP's heater, If there is spark, then the safeties are all being satisfied. This also means that the blower is functioning properly as there is a vacuum switch in the safety loop to verify air flow. This only leaves fuel flow. If he is smelling propane as he indicated he is, my suspicion is that the burner orifices are not letting gas flow into the burner tubes

andyrob2215 · May 31, 2015

The only reason I mentioned it is because I read in another forum where 10-15 people did this (not saying it's right) and it fixed, or at least made it work, for them. But I'm certainly no expert so I will not advise anything I'm not 100% sure on.

ps0303 · May 31, 2015

We just want everyone here to be safe. We do appreciate everyone's input into problem solving, we just need to be careful on the solutions we provide.

andyrob2215 · May 31, 2015

I understand ?

In case anyone was wondering about my situation about not getting spark I went ahead and used the advice given and re-soldered the pins in the ignition module. And low and behold, success!! Every time I've tried it since then it has worked like a charm.

ps0303 · May 31, 2015

andyrob2215 said:
I understand &#55357;&#56397;

In case anyone was wondering about my situation about not getting spark I went ahead and used the advice given and re-soldered the pins in the ignition module. And low and behold, success!! Every time I've tried it since then it has worked like a charm.

Yep that is one of the issues I encounter from time to time on older units.

JWP1016 · Jun 2, 2015

Finally the rain stopped enough for me to remove and clean. Everything seems clean now it appear to have 1 of the 8 ports clogged. I'll put back in tomorrow

please just confirm this is where i was to look and clean.

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Finally the rain stopped enough for me to remove and clean. Everything seems clean now it appear to have 1 of the 8 ports clogged. I'll put back in tomorrow

please just confirm this is where i was to look and clean.

Hayward Pool · Jun 3, 2015

Hi Everyone, I strongly recommend not adjusting the gas valve. The H100 burns 100,000 btu's an hour. A 100lb tank at half full may not be enough fuel. We have missed putting a Manometer on the incoming side of the gas valve to see static gas pressure with the valve closed and what it reads when the valve opens. This is from the manual

The incoming gas pressure must not exceed 13.5 W.C. for propane and no lower than 3.0 W.C. The manifold side when the valve opens should be 2. Do not adjust the gas valve if the incoming gas pressure is low.

ps0303 · Jun 4, 2015

I would never suggest a homeowner adjust a gas valve and I purposely don't mention a monometer as most homeowners don't own one and also it would require the homeowner to remove the screw from the gas valve. I feel it's best to have the owner get a licensed tech over to the house for that part.

JWP1016 · Jun 9, 2015

So the outcome was great I reinstalled all and perfect!!!! Pool went from 67 to 87 in 91/2 hours!!!! Thanks Everyone for your help. Last question. I also can run with a reg 20lb tank and it worked well ( 67-87 was off a 100lb tank). Can I run 2 50lb tank vs 100lb tank?

ps0303 · Jun 9, 2015

Yes you can run two 50lb tanks connected together.

Help Hayward H100D Propane not igniting

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