My Setup Pictorial Intex 18'x48" Ultraframe Pool

May 16, 2015
308
Pooler, GA
Hello everyone!

Today is an exciting day for our family! Pool setup day! It is finally here!

I will start with the work I have done up to this point. Sorry, I do not have pics of the first few steps, but they would be boring anyways...


1. MARK THE POOL LOCATION

I first tied a small loop onto a piece of rope. I then measured out the radius of the pool plus 1 foot from this loop and tied a knot. This made a 10 foot long rope for my pool.

I found where I wanted the center point of our pool to be and marked a dot with spray paint. I inserted a long screwdriver into the loop and the pushed it into the ground at my center dot. I then swung the rope around in a circle and sprayed spray paint where I tied the knot to mark the outline of the pool.

Note: On hindsight, I would have made this a little wider. Somehow the pool managed to exactly fit in the hole and not have an extra 1 foot on all sides.​

2. DIG OUT THE GROUND

First I sprayed weed and grass killer down over the entire area. This was probably unnecessary because I ended up having to put down another coat later.

I then assembled a leveling stick. I used 2, 2"x4"x8" boards and placed them end to end. I then used a few extra scrap pieces to join them together. I raised these scrap pieces up about a half inch to create and indent to place my level in so it would stay put easier.

I then laid the leveling stick down on the area I just marked off. I placed my level on top and then lifted one end of the stick off the ground until it became level. I then knew that the end that was still on the ground needed to be lowered by this distance. For me this was about 4 inches.

I wanted a 2 inch layer of sand under the pool so I dug out the low side 2 inches deep. The high side I dug using my 4 inch measurement plus the 2 inches for the sand. This was dug 6 inches deep.

I used the leveling stick the same way I originally used it to gauge how well I was leveling. I would lay it on the ground and then dig out any high spots until the ends would both touch the ground. If I was not level I would lift an end to find out how far off I was and the dig the opposite end down. I probably spent way to much time doing this, but in the end it worked!

Note: Don't be cheap like me! I didn't have a wheelbarrow, so I used a dolly and a bunch of rubbermaid bins to haul dirt away. This was a horrible experience to haul away 3+ cubic yards of dirt using this! I bought a nice yard cart to bring in the sand in the end.​

3. PLACE PAVER STONES

Next I put together the top rail so I could figure out where my paver stones would need to go.

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I placed paver stones under each leg. The stones I used were 8"x8"x2". I made sure to use stones that matched the height that I wanted my sand to be. I had made the hole for the pool so small that I had to dig out a small notch to fit most of the pavers in.

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I then used a 2"x4"x10' board to fine tune my leveling. I found the center point and placed a paver down. This paver must be at the correct height and must be perfectly level.

I then placed the board across the center paver and one of the outside pavers and checked to see if it was level. I also checked to make sure there were no high spots of dirt in between. After lowering the outer paver as necessary and digging out any additional dirt I would move on to the next paver until they were all level.

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I also noticed that I already had some weeds sprouting in my newly dug hole. I sprayed some more weed killer down, this time using the stuff that claims it will keep killing for the next year.​

4. ADD SAND

Now I had some sand trucked in. They could not bring it all the way to the pool site, so I had to move it myself. Thankfully I learned my lesson from moving the dirt out and bought a small 3cf yard cart. The wheelbarrows at this price point had horrible reviews and I can use the cart for other things as well. I used 18 heaping carts of sand, so just over 2 cubic yards.

I used a 5/8" masonary drill bit to drill a hole in the center of the center paver. I also drilled a 5/8" bit to drill a hole in my 10' leveling stick. I placed a 3/8"x24" metal rod into the ground inside the hole in the paver leaving about 8 inches sticking out. I placed the leveling stick on this rod as well.

Note: If I were to do this again, I would cut off any remaining wood on the leveling stick after the hole.​

I raked the sand out and then leveled it off. I would use the pavers as leveling points. I placed the leveling stick on a paver, then slide it over until I reached the next paver. If there was a high spot, I would allow the board to scrape it off. If there was a low spot I would add a little sand. After each section was level I would rake away any extra sand the board pushed along before moving to the next section until the whole pool was completely level.

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I then tamped it down with a hand tamper. Once it was firm I removed the center paver and rod and filled it in.

I used the backside of a rake to remove any imperfections.​

Next post will be once the pool actually starts going up!
 
5. LINER PREP

I took the tarp that came with the pool and laid it out on an empty spot of grass. I unrolled the liner on top of it and let it sit in the sun for about an hour. This is to soften it up a little and make it easier to work with.

Next I rolled the liner up. I made sure to roll it up with the inlet/outlet on the end of the roll so I could place these where I want them easier when I actually put it over the sand.

Note: I did not realize that my pool had 2 inlets and one outlet. Apparently this is a new feature. When I lined it up in the sand I misaligned it because I was only looking at the 2 inlets.​

I then drug the liner on top of the sand and used some of the frame pieces to hold it down. I put the liner on top and unrolled it, again paying attention to which direction I had the inlets/outlet pointed.​

6 FRAME SETUP

The actual method to setting the frame up is explained very well in the manual, and is super easy. I am not going to go into too much detail here.

I will say that especially when doing this alone, you need to work out a system to get the rails into their pockets easily. I found that if you hold on to the next loop to stop it from folding over, it would make putting the frame into the current loop much easier.

I did not worry about aligning the legs on top of the pavers at first. After I assembled 7 legs I shifted everything so the legs fell roughly in to place. The side would now stand up on its own.

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Now I continued around until I was about 2/3 of the way done. I walked into the pool at this point and pulled on the liner to straighten out the folds in the bottom.

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I then finished putting up the frame. Notice that many of the legs are not very straight up and down.

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6. FINAL TOUCHES

I then got into the pool and tried to move the liner up against the legs. I got out as many wrinkles as I could, although there were still quite a few. I got back out and used a level to check how straight the legs were vertically. I had to move quite a few, and tug on the liner from the outside in quite a few places.

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I then started adding water. After the pool got about 2 inches of water I reentered the pool and really smoothed out the wrinkles. I first pulled out any really long lines and started working on progressively smaller ones. I then worked the small lines starting in the center and moving outwards until the liner was wrinkle free!

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Next will be plumbing and accessories.
 
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