Hot Dog!...4700ppm SALT READING on my Easy Touch Display...Should I WORRY!?

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fudgebar

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Jul 25, 2010
180
North Bergen, NJ
Folks, Im a little nervous...is this dangerous to my pool, equipment, or water chemistry balance?........I understand that the proper levels should be somewhere around 3200-3300ppm for Salt.

I noticed that the light on my Pentair IC-20 was slowly flashing green -which seems to indicate high salt. So I went to the diagnostic menu in my easy touch and went down to chlorinator and saw the reading said 4700ppm for salt

Should I empty this or just let it ride?

My pool has only been opened for 2-3 weeks now. Im up in Northern NJ and my pool is approx 11,000 gals Its a 14x26 rectangle with a deep end of about 5'10"

So should I really worry about this?

Any advice would be appreciated....thnx
 
High salt warning is at 4500 for the IC, it will continue to produce chlorine. The manual says to drain to get the level below 4500. But, I would call that close enough. My salt was over 5000 year before a last and it was fine.
 
ok thanks...is there any negative to running my pool with SALT level at 4750-4800ppm?.....Will it do anything to imbalance my water chemistry or ruin my equipment?

Can I expect these numbers to lower as the swim season progresses into the summer?

Also, what did I do (or my pool guy do) wrong to get the Salt Level that high in the first place?

I currently went into my SALT settings and lowered it from 50% down to 45% output in the hopes to eventually rebalance this out....I guess this wont do anything now...but will it help to make sure it doesn't go higher as the Salt levels eventually lower?
 
I suggest you get the K-1766, Taylor Salt Test kit and independently check the actual salt level in your pool. It could be a lot higher, or a lot lower, than what the output of the IC40 shows on your EasyTouch. I have three identical IC40 system, in three different pools, and none of them show the same salt level on the EasyTouch as the K-1766. My guess is their accuracy is about plus or minus 600 ppm.

You said "I currently went into my SALT settings and lowered it from 50% down to 45% output in the hopes to eventually rebalance this out....I guess this wont do anything now..." I may just not understand what you are saying, but it appears you are under the impression that this percentage setting adjusts the "salt" output of the IC40, when it actually adjusts the amount of chlorine that IC40 produces.

Jim R.
 
IC40 here on a 45k gallon pool. Buy the K-1766 for accurate salt test. My EasyTouch kept telling me salt was low and it turned out to be a faulty flow switch in the cell. I spent 100 instead of 500 and it is back working. I pay not attention to the salt level reading on the EasyTouch except to make sure it is above 2700 ppm so it will run. I currently have about 3800 ppm of salt in my pool. Hopefully won't have to add any the rest of the year.

Thanks to this site I have very little trouble with my water chemistry and do not spend the change in my pocket each year to keep it up.
 
Ok thanks all!....good advice

Yes I was under the impression that lowering to 45% from 50% would eventually help even out my Salt reading numbers by lowering them, but I wasnt sure.....so it appears that lowering this Salt Generator output actually just lowers the chlorine generation the is being produced?.......I think I understand now


ok I will certainly pickup a K-1766 Salt Test to be sure....thank you


On a side question, I put a tube sock filled with the proper amount of CYA (Stabalizer) into my skimmer basket 2 days ago to try and increase my low CYA reading from between 0-40 up to the 80ppm that is recommended for SWG pools.

My question is, how long should it take for that sock to empty out all that CYA? It seems like it is still filled with this stuff even after 2 days...yes its wet but it is still in the sock....is my tube sock too thick to properly dissolve this stuff or does it just take several days.....sorry for the dumb questions

thanks
 
Squeeze the sock a few times a day or whenever you are out there to help it dissolve faster. Should take 3 or 4 days.

The SWG percentage is the % of time the SWG is making chlorine over a fixed time window, usually 2 or 3 hours. So, if your SWG is on a 3 hour internal time cycle and is set to 50% it will make chlorine 1-1/2 of the 3 hour cycle. Salt level will never change, as soon as the chlorine is used it combines with sodium and goes back to salt in a continuous loop.
 
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