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Thread: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

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    Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    As a newbie, I'm assuming that a running pump is what is driving the water through the skimmer/filter? I do not have a timer on my pump. I have a SWG with a heat pump that is currently on. I asked the pool guy, that opened my pool, how long to leave the pump going each day. His response was that since I do not have a timer, I can leave it on 24/7. Is this correct? If not, how long should the pump be running each day and during what hours are best?

    Before you answer that question, please keep in mind that my wife and I both work, we live on 10 acres that we maintain, have a 5 year old, and both she and I are active in sports. Long story, short, we do not have much free-time, which is why the pool guy said to just leave it running 24/7.

    Once again, your help is greatly appreciated.
    Pool Owner since Sept. 2014, but 2012(ish) in-ground pool. 40'x'20x3'(shallow)-8'(deep). Around 28,000 gallons. Vinyl liner. SWG. Aqua Rite with Hayward T-15 cell. Hayward Super Pump (self priming). Hayward Sand Filter. AquaPro Pro1100e Heat Pump. 2 main drains. 2 skimmers. 2 jets. 1 light. 1 diving board. Dolphin M4. TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    24/7 will just cost a lot in electricity.

    Check out the Determine Pump Run Time article in Pool School
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    A timer will pay for itself quickly, even if you pay someone to install it. I my pump only run about 4 hours a day total.
    15k in-ground plaster, Hayward C900 cartridge, 3/4hp single speed pump, Barracuda G2 cleaner, TF-100

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    BoDarville's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    Another plug for the Determine Pump Run Time article that Tim mentioned. This is the process I followed and I was able to cut my pump run time dramatically while still maintaining a crystal-clear pool. Once you determine the ideal pump run time for your pool, you can set the timer for that amount of run time. Keep in mind that you will need to make periodic adjustments to your base run time for events like after a pool party, after a storm, etc. Although I have a timer, I run my pump manually unless I'm out of town. My base run time is around 30-45 min (yes, you read that right!). But after a pool party, I may run it for 8 hours.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    Thanks for the responses. I had read that article earlier, but I feel that I've got enough knowledge to be really dangerous to my pool, right now. Lol. So that is why I'm seeking real life experiences about pump run times.

    If I turn the pump off:

    1. Can I leave the SWG on or do both of these items need to be in sync with each other (in terms of power on and power off together)?
    2. Can I still use the heater? I'm assuming once I turn the pump off, the return jets will go off. Those jets are where I believe my warm water is coming from (because it's warmer coming out than the pool water).

    Another pool store advice blunder. I cannot believe how much money I'd be throwing away had I listened to the pool store. Keep in mind, my wife bought $680 worth of chemicals for my salt water pool. That was returned and I bought the TF test kit. So far, saved me close to $500.
    Pool Owner since Sept. 2014, but 2012(ish) in-ground pool. 40'x'20x3'(shallow)-8'(deep). Around 28,000 gallons. Vinyl liner. SWG. Aqua Rite with Hayward T-15 cell. Hayward Super Pump (self priming). Hayward Sand Filter. AquaPro Pro1100e Heat Pump. 2 main drains. 2 skimmers. 2 jets. 1 light. 1 diving board. Dolphin M4. TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    If I turn the pump off:

    1. Can I leave the SWG on or do both of these items need to be in sync with each other (in terms of power on and power off together)?
    they should be turned on and off together, the amount of time on will dertimine how much chlorine is coming from your SWG

    2. Can I still use the heater? I'm assuming once I turn the pump off, the return jets will go off. Those jets are where I believe my warm water is coming from (because it's warmer coming out than the pool water).
    you can still use your heater as long as the pump is on, when the pump is off your heater needs to be off also

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    umpalumpajay's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    You have to have the pump ON to make the SWG work. Do you have a variable speed pump? If you have a 2 speed or variable on top of running it less, you'll save LOTS of money on electricity. Your pump run time in your case relies on making sure you get enough chlorine from the SWG into your pool at whatever given % you have the SWG set at. So if you run 12 hours, you'll basically have 50% LESS chlorine created. You should be able to run significantly less time although you'd have to turn the % on your SWG UP to compensate for not running 24/7. as far as the heater goes, yeah, you can run the heater when the pump is on.
    12000g pool + 1000g spa. Jandy 2.0hp epump + separate Jandy pump for Sheer Descent. Jandy CV Cartridge Filter. Jandy Lxi gas heater. Tropical Breeze PebbleTec. Aqualink. Aquapure SWG. Nature 2. The Pool Cleaner 2x. Taylor K-2005.

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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    I do not have a variable speed pump. I have currently been running it 24/7 with the SWG set at 50%. My salt test last Friday (before my CYA addition) was around 3600. Based on reading this thread, I'm thinking about only running the pump and heater at night (about 10 hours) and turning it off during the day and still leaving my SWG at 50%. My rationale is that I live in KY, and the nights are still around 60 degrees so it would be nice to have the pool heated so that the temperature does not drop too much overnight. Is this flawed logic or should I tweak this?
    Pool Owner since Sept. 2014, but 2012(ish) in-ground pool. 40'x'20x3'(shallow)-8'(deep). Around 28,000 gallons. Vinyl liner. SWG. Aqua Rite with Hayward T-15 cell. Hayward Super Pump (self priming). Hayward Sand Filter. AquaPro Pro1100e Heat Pump. 2 main drains. 2 skimmers. 2 jets. 1 light. 1 diving board. Dolphin M4. TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    I don't know if I would call it flawed, but most of the heat loss from a pool is evaporation - which will not stop because you are running the heater. Get a bubble cover to float on the surface and I think you will really see your temperatures start top go up - especially with the heater.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    umpalumpajay's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    YOU JUST HAVE TO MAKE SURE YOU CAN MAKE ENOUGH CHLORINE TO MAKE UP FOR WHAT YOU LOSE DURING THE DAY. you are running 24/7 @50% and it appears you are making enough to keep up with demand. Running it all day at that setting seems like you should be making WAY more than enough to keep up. I live in Southern California and mine is set to run 8 hours at 40%.
    So here is our hypothetical situation: Let's just say you're making around 3ppm chlorine per day at your current settings running 24hours. you would have to make 3ppm in 10 hours to do what you want. Water temperature is also consideration as the chlorinator ineffective below a certain temperature. A couple more questions if you don't mind.
    1. What is your CYA and FC reading?
    2. What is the temperature of your water right now?
    3. How many gallons is your pool? (my pool is probably tiny in comparison to yours)
    edit: just looked at your signature and your pool volume is HUGE compared to mine. you very well may not be able to make the chlorine you need in a day running only 10 hours even if you ran it at 100%.
    12000g pool + 1000g spa. Jandy 2.0hp epump + separate Jandy pump for Sheer Descent. Jandy CV Cartridge Filter. Jandy Lxi gas heater. Tropical Breeze PebbleTec. Aqualink. Aquapure SWG. Nature 2. The Pool Cleaner 2x. Taylor K-2005.

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    umpalumpajay's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    it seems by simple math that if you are holding a steady level of chlorine at 50% for 24 hours, it would seem impossible for you to keep up in only 10 hours. but there may be other factors involved. thats why i asked for your numbers.
    12000g pool + 1000g spa. Jandy 2.0hp epump + separate Jandy pump for Sheer Descent. Jandy CV Cartridge Filter. Jandy Lxi gas heater. Tropical Breeze PebbleTec. Aqualink. Aquapure SWG. Nature 2. The Pool Cleaner 2x. Taylor K-2005.

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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    i did my first test with TF-100 last week on 5.13.15. my results were:

    Salt Test (sodium chloride): 3600 ppm
    FC: 7.5 ppm
    CC: .5 ppm
    TC: 8 ppm
    Quick Test of pH: 7.5
    Quick Test of Cl: 5 (or above. that side of the container was yellow).
    TA: 80
    CH: around 175 ppm.
    CYA: around 20, maybe less (black dot became faint as I got closer to 20, from 30. when the tube was completely filled, the black dot was not visible anymore).

    Since then, I added 5 lbs. of CYA last Thursday and dissolved on Friday. I am waiting on 6 days to do another TF test.

    I've performed the quick pH and Cl tests every 2 days. my pH is holding steady at 7.5 and my Cl level is always extremely yellow (so it would read 5 or more?). Pool temp is around 77-82 degrees.
    Pool Owner since Sept. 2014, but 2012(ish) in-ground pool. 40'x'20x3'(shallow)-8'(deep). Around 28,000 gallons. Vinyl liner. SWG. Aqua Rite with Hayward T-15 cell. Hayward Super Pump (self priming). Hayward Sand Filter. AquaPro Pro1100e Heat Pump. 2 main drains. 2 skimmers. 2 jets. 1 light. 1 diving board. Dolphin M4. TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Filter/Pump Run Time

    if you do a FAS-DPD chlorine test (the one with the powder) there is no need to do the OTO test (yellow color match) on the same day. The OTO maxes out at 5ppm chlorine while the FAS-DPD goes up to 50.

    Generally I uses the OTO 3 or four days a week and the FAS-DPD the other days. As you say the "quick" CL test just lets me know I'm not getting into trouble.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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