Does Plumbing Look Correct?? Have Pics

Jump to latest Follow Reply
There are several things that could be improved, though I don't think that any of them are critical.

It is better to have some straight pipe in front of the pump before the 90.

It is better to have the input to both of the three way valves come in the center port, rather than one of the side ports.

The white sweep 90s do not appear to be schedule 40. You want all of the plumbing fittings to be schedule 40.

I am assuming the black fittings are CPVC. You want CPVC on the pump outlet and both the heater inlet and outlet.

There are significant advantages to having a couple of inches of straight pipe between things. That gives you places to cut the pipe and make changes in the future.

It is best if the SWG is several inches above the heater outlet. You can do that with the existing setup, just slope the straight section of pipe after the heater up a little.
 
Use unions where things may have to come apart in the future.

Make sure you have room to move around in the back of things.

If you put a T instead of a 90 at the pump outlet, you can then install a threaded bushing and a hose bib in the extra leg in case you need to lower the water level after a massive downpour or for winterizing.

If one of those 3ways after the SWG feeds a spa, you don't want the SWG before it. You'll overchlorinate it in spa mode.

That's all that springs to mind based on my own setup's shortcomings.
 
Like Jason said all those sweep curve fittings look like DWV drain pipe, not Schedule 40 pressure pipe, you can tell by the half length glue fittings. You can probably get away with DWV pipe fittings as long as they are above ground. My pool was plumbed with them and 4 times in the last 10 years I had to cut up the concrete to get to and fix a leak caused by the use of the wrong type elbow fitting when the pool was built.
 
I beleive they are all sch 40 fittings? I should have bought street fittings, (one with a male end and the other end a female) but I ended up buying a box of these instead. The schedule 40 2'' pipe I am using fits perfect. MAybe I am confused? Also do I need any check valves?

thanks guys

- - - Updated - - -

Do I need to slope my return and drain lines for winterizing? How deep do my plumbing lines need installed? My pool installer said that I do not lower the water level when winterizing something to do with my automatic cover needs the water for support? But wont the returns and skimmer freeze? confused
 
71CHEVY4X4 said:
I beleive they are all sch 40 fittings? I should have bought street fittings, (one with a male end and the other end a female) but I ended up buying a box of these instead. The schedule 40 2'' pipe I am using fits perfect. MAybe I am confused? Also do I need any check valves?

thanks guys

- - - Updated - - -

Do I need to slope my return and drain lines for winterizing? How deep do my plumbing lines need installed? My pool installer said that I do not lower the water level when winterizing something to do with my automatic cover needs the water for support? But wont the returns and skimmer freeze? confused
Click to expand...

Those are DWV fittings and not designed for pressurized systems. The short bonding area for the solvent weld is the key difference.
 
I see. I will get different ones from Menards or Lowes if they have them. So use nothing with DWV labeled on it???
The 10' sticks of PVC say DWV on them is that OK to use ??? The pipe is schedule 40 it is made by Charlotte Pipe True Fit 7200 2" PVC type 1 schedule 40 NSF DWV ASTM D 2665
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply