Hello, I am new to TFPC. I like the idea of moving to liquid Chlorine and want to start the process, but I would like to get the CH under control 1st if needed. This has always been high even with the new plater. We run at 600 ppm right now and having a very hard time maintaining any FC (=0), but the pool is perfectly clear. I read in one thread about using Reverse Osmosis (RO) for removing Calcium. Does this work and should I consider it. I am ordering a good test kit and want to test the inut water as well sicne I drained about 30% while brushing this spring and refilled and it does not look like any difference. Any suggestions?
Just getting started and loering CH - Calcium Hardness levels
- Thread starter kmelcher
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!First, the CH has nothing to do with the inability to maintain FC, if that is what you were implying. You need to know your CYA level to know what FC level you need to maintain to prevent algae and what level is required to clear up whatever is consuming your FC according to the FC/CYA Chart.
Yes, RO can lower the CH (and CYA), but the service is only available in very limited areas.
What is the CH of you fill water?
Rain harvesting is a good way to bring your CH down as well.
Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
My CH is 825 last time I checked and my water is crystal clear and hold Fc pretty good. You can't blame CH for anything but scale formation and waterline stains.
Reverse Osmosis is the same process they use to make distilled water they sell in grocery stores and convert seawater into drinking water on ships. It strips out everything. It's also expensive and operators are scarce. And you're still stuck having to balance the water and feed the pool chlorine everyday even after it's done.
600 CH is easily managed, if you're armed with the facts. Invest in a TF100 test kit. I'd urge you to get the speedstir, too. It makes testing a breeze, especially that time-consuming CH test.
Reverse Osmosis is the same process they use to make distilled water they sell in grocery stores and convert seawater into drinking water on ships. It strips out everything. It's also expensive and operators are scarce. And you're still stuck having to balance the water and feed the pool chlorine everyday even after it's done.
600 CH is easily managed, if you're armed with the facts. Invest in a TF100 test kit. I'd urge you to get the speedstir, too. It makes testing a breeze, especially that time-consuming CH test.
thank you. My CYA is also high at 100. Only option is to drain and refill partial? I already did 30% earlier this year, but may need to do it again if I look at the pool math section. The water is crystal clear so that is not an issue, just no FC measured. I am going to get a good test kit on order.
Just because the water is clear does not mean nothing is growing in it and that it is safe. I would certainly put a partial water drain and replacement on the schedule soon as well as getting the TF-100 on order.
There is a new product this year called Bio-active that is supposed to reduce CYA. Use the search box up top if you want to read about it. Results are mixed. Since you already have high CH, you could kill two birds with one stone with a partial drain. I've never had that luxury, since we've been under various water restrictions since I've owned my place.
I think "results are mixed", while technically correct, is being generous. 
I would guess maybe a 10% of the members who tried it showed any reduction.
I would guess maybe a 10% of the members who tried it showed any reduction.Any recommendations on pool draining/refilling. I have a separate pump and suction hose to drain it. Best to drain form the top or bottom and any need to brush while draining (something the pool company mentioned)? Last draining didn't give me the results I wanted except for a big water bill
Chemically, it makes no difference where you pump from. It's all blended now. If there's any silt in the bottom of the pool, set the pump in the deep end and brush everything at it. Otherwise, just start emptying.Any recommendations on pool draining/refilling. I have a separate pump and suction hose to drain it. Best to drain form the top or bottom and any need to brush while draining (something the pool company mentioned)? Last draining didn't give me the results I wanted except for a big water bill
ok, the TF100 kit came (yes, I bought the magnetic speedstir my wife is a engineering chemist so this was like brining home the whole candy store). The FC was 2.5, CC was 0.5, CYA was 100 and CH was 900-1000 as expected, PH was good. I will do a water repalcment after the next few weeks, but for grins, I tested the tap water and the CH is 320. I added 2 gallons of chlorine per the chart to bring it up to 7 ppm (easing into this, chart says I need about 12). We will test FC and CC again tonight. With the tap water so high in CH, any recommendations other than trying the Bio-active approach? The scale is really not too bad, I see a little on the top tile. I have a tab feeder on the system, do you recommend keepign this on for the TFP process?
If your CYA is only 100ppm (I have a feeling it is likely much higher), then a FC of 7ppm is the MINIMUM you should even let the FC get. Targeting 7 is too low.
The tablet feeder is what got your CYA level so high in the first place.
You need to replace a bunch of water to lower both the CYA and CH and then stick to liquid chlorine.
- - - Updated - - -
Check out the links I posted in my first response ... especially the last one.
The tablet feeder is what got your CYA level so high in the first place.
You need to replace a bunch of water to lower both the CYA and CH and then stick to liquid chlorine.
- - - Updated - - -
Check out the links I posted in my first response ... especially the last one.
makes sense:
1) Schedule a pool draining and refill
2) Turn off the tablet feeder
3) Get the FC up to around 12 until #1 can be done and recheck the CYA
Sound like a good plan?
1) Schedule a pool draining and refill
2) Turn off the tablet feeder
3) Get the FC up to around 12 until #1 can be done and recheck the CYA
Sound like a good plan?