How to replace pressure gauge in Hayward Variflow XL Multiport Valve
- Thread starter zea3
- Start date
Re: Let's play guess my PSI!
I bought this filter used last year and it has one of those lovely Hayward valves with non-servicable parts. I don't think I can unscrew it without taking the top piece off. I'll get a side pic in a minute so you can see what I mean. Some of that mess inside the gauge is from last year when I used some DE to speed up the clean up. I didn't think it was supposed to get into the gauge.
I bought this filter used last year and it has one of those lovely Hayward valves with non-servicable parts. I don't think I can unscrew it without taking the top piece off. I'll get a side pic in a minute so you can see what I mean. Some of that mess inside the gauge is from last year when I used some DE to speed up the clean up. I didn't think it was supposed to get into the gauge.
Re: Let's play guess my PSI!
You guys think I'll need to take the valve apart to get the old gauge off? Looking at the picture more closely, I don't think taking the top part off will help. There is some kind of square nut you can't really see in the picture between the gauge and the multiport. I don't think I can get to it, however.
I just moderated myself to change the name on the thread. It felt a little strange!
You guys think I'll need to take the valve apart to get the old gauge off? Looking at the picture more closely, I don't think taking the top part off will help. There is some kind of square nut you can't really see in the picture between the gauge and the multiport. I don't think I can get to it, however.
I just moderated myself to change the name on the thread. It felt a little strange!
n240sxguy
Well-known member
I don't see how you can take that gauge off. Or have any idea how it was put on there. That's crazy! It will come off, I just hope nothing important gets broken in the process.
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Propbndr
LifeTime Supporter
I would use a hacksaw to cut the nipple as close to the gauge as possible. Then use channel lock pliers to unscrew the nipple. Now off to the local hardware or big box building supply of a longer nipple and coupling to screw the new gauge to. Use thread sealent on both ends of the new nipple and gauge nipple. Just remember, you are working with a plastic valve housing so, be gentle with the pliers when screwing the new nipple in. You don't want to strip the housing threads!
p.s. Take the old nipple with you so you can get an exact size match.
p.s. Take the old nipple with you so you can get an exact size match.
Taking the valve apart wouldn't help. If you can get the top faceplate off of the gauge, you should be able to unscrew the gauge. You could cut the faceplate with wire cutters to get it off.
You might have to dismantle things.
I wouldn't. I have all kinds of nifty mechanic's tools. I'd just slice the gauge off with a cutoff wheel and use an extractor to pull the threaded stump out. And then I'd put a short pipe nipple and coupling on there to move the new gauge out an inch or so. Okay, enough bragging...
Once you have the replacement gauge in your mitts, see if you can't put a pair of pliers or a crescent wrench on the gauge itself and unscrew it. It'll be hard to get a wrench on the square shank. And if it disintegrates in the process, you were replacing it anyway. That's when you break out the vise grips to unscrew what remains. I'd still put a nipple in there for the future. A big auto parts store or a big hardware store will have brass stuff. Stainless steel or plastic would be better, but I don't know where to look for that in 1/4" NPT.
I wouldn't. I have all kinds of nifty mechanic's tools. I'd just slice the gauge off with a cutoff wheel and use an extractor to pull the threaded stump out. And then I'd put a short pipe nipple and coupling on there to move the new gauge out an inch or so. Okay, enough bragging...
Once you have the replacement gauge in your mitts, see if you can't put a pair of pliers or a crescent wrench on the gauge itself and unscrew it. It'll be hard to get a wrench on the square shank. And if it disintegrates in the process, you were replacing it anyway. That's when you break out the vise grips to unscrew what remains. I'd still put a nipple in there for the future. A big auto parts store or a big hardware store will have brass stuff. Stainless steel or plastic would be better, but I don't know where to look for that in 1/4" NPT.
I too would try to remove (tiwst off) the faceplate first and see if that gives you enough clearace. Most hardware stores should sell brass and maybe stainless steel 1/4 inch NPT fittings, I would use a short 1/4 inch nipple (1/2 inch long maybe, or maybe even a close) add a 1/4 inch threaded coupler onto the end of it and screw the new gauge into the coupler, even with a close that will add around 1/2 inch to the overall length which I suspect is all you need.
Ike
p.s. out of the big box stores I have found Lowes tends to have a better fittings selection than Home Depot, but I don't recall seeing stainless fittings at Lowes, if you have an Ace Hardware nearby I would try it first.
Ike
p.s. out of the big box stores I have found Lowes tends to have a better fittings selection than Home Depot, but I don't recall seeing stainless fittings at Lowes, if you have an Ace Hardware nearby I would try it first.
The top piece is a rotatable dial that allows you to set the starting pressure and when to backwash (see arrows on dial). It snaps off pretty easily. Also, note that it screwed in, so it should screw out.
The gauge in this valve is much larger than the replacement gauge. I am dumbfounded on how it got installed.
I got a closer look at it today. What I thought was a square nut is actually a square shaft with some white stuff on one side. You can pull the gauge away from the valve about 1/2". Still doesn't give it enough clearance to turn. Tried to pry the cover off the gauge and got it loose. Face of the gauge is all rusty and snapped in half. Its not leaking water anywhere. If I pull this thing off and discover the former owner modified the valve connection is it going to spray water all over the place until I find a gauge that fits?
I wonder if the former owner pulled the top off and fastened the gauge from the inside.
I wonder if the former owner pulled the top off and fastened the gauge from the inside.
Probably. That's why my earlier post said, "Once you have the replacement gauge in your mitts." Mechanics learn things like that the hard way. Learn from others' mistakes.
Take the FC up a couple points before you start tearing things apart, just in case you need to shut down the pump for a few days waiting on some obscure part.
With the dial faceplate off, the gauge should unscrew. It's very unlikely that anything is fastened inside. A regular gauge without the dial will screw in.
A 1/4" pipe thread plug will work to plug the hole temporarily, if necessary.
Also, you could crush down the gauge with channel lock pliers to make it clear the valve if necessary.
Overall, it's a poor design.
Note that a gauge with the pipe threads coming out of the back of the gauge won't work.
A 1/4" pipe thread plug will work to plug the hole temporarily, if necessary.
Also, you could crush down the gauge with channel lock pliers to make it clear the valve if necessary.
Overall, it's a poor design.
Note that a gauge with the pipe threads coming out of the back of the gauge won't work.
n240sxguy
Well-known member
A tiny 1" back mount gauge may fit in there. What does the manual show as the replacement part?
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