Do I really need to replace 50% of my water?

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DallasSocFan

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Nov 16, 2012
69
Dallas, TX
First post, so be gentle. Quick backstory. For 5 years I've been doing the bring a sample to the pool store every week thing, so this summer I wanted to make it easy and just have someone take care of it for me. I didn't mind the weekly balancing expense so much, but when I found out that everyone required me to do $75-$100 "filter cleanings" I couldn't take it. Too easy of a job to require so much money and it wasn't optional. Anyway, did some research and wound up here.

I bought a Taylor K-2006 and while I was waiting on it, I assumed I had zero chlorine because I usually do, and proceeded to dump bleach in to get rid of Algae. Brush, bleach, brush bleach.

Pools is clearer now than it has ever been, but here are my first-test numbers. I was plenty OCD about doing the test, so I trust the nubers per the directions.

Water Temp = 71 degrees
Air temp = 81 degrees
pH = 7.8
FC = 12
CC = 0
TA = 130
CH = 630 (YIKES)
CYA = 120 (or more, black dot disappeared quickly)

The water looks great, so I'm hesitant to go drastic. Thoughts?
 
With CYA 100+ I'm sure all the algae isn't dead yet and just waiting to spring back. A 50% water change would put up you at 60 IF the 120 is correct. 100 is the limit of the test, so anything above that is just a guess.

I would say at least 33% at first, but you are probably looking at 50% + to get it where you really need it.

Or, if you can just get it below 100 to,have a true reading you could SLAM it but the cost of chlorine would be massive and water exchange would probably be less expensive.

As to the CH, I'm betting you have high CH fill water. As water evaporates form the pool the CH stays behind. You add water, and thus the CH keeps going up. Test your fill water to see what it is.
 
Welcome back :wave:

+1 on taking control with your own test kit.

Your numbers look waaaay better than mine did when I took over my pool. However, I had no algae. My CYA was over 200. My CH has only been below 500 once in the last 3 or 4 years, after a massive rain.

From firsthand experience I can say that you can maintain a pool with superhigh CYA, but I don't recommend it. First, repeat the CYA test using the dilution method in Extended Directions. Then you'll have a better idea how much water needs replacing. Getting rid of the algae for once and for all will be so much easier with a realistic CYA number. If you're not under water restrictions, do it. Municipal water is cheap. They usually price it in CCF - that's a hundred cubic feet, 748 gallons. Just the amount of bleach you won't need to buy for the initial shock dose at your elevated CYA will probably cancel the expense.
Stick with the methods we preach :deal: and get your numbers in line and you will end up with a clear sparkling pool that will be the envy of the neighborhood. Seriously. Guests will actually remark on how clear the water is. My wife's best friend's kids have become pool snobs after swimming in my pool.
 
With CYA that high you need to maintain your FC between 10-15. That is quite high. Partial water replacement would also bring down your CH to a manageable level.

I'm guessing that you used to buy Cal-hypo from the pool store for shocking the pool? Sticking with bleach moving forward since it does not add any CYA nor CH.

I'd drain at least 1/2 and refill.
 
I would suggest keeping your pH at the lower end more towards 7.2-7.4 to help avoid scaling due to the high calcium. Because you have a plaster pool you *need* more calcium than any other pool type. If you replace some water to lower the CYA, your new fill water ought to be a bit lower. All those little water replacements with lower fill will help slowly. Just for grins, how about testing your fill water for a baseline?
 
Poolldv, he has the K-2006 test kit so there isn't a need for the TF-100 test kit.

DallasSocFan, if you want the pool to be simpler to take care of, you need to drain some water. I'm guessing at least 50% because you want the CYA to be around 50. This will lower the CYA and CH which will make managing the pool much simpler.
 
After heavy rain last night and two quarts of acid yesterday morning and 90 ounces of 8.25 bleach last night:

Ph 7.5
FC 13
CYA 95

I didn't test the other stuff. I want to get the basics right first.

Question: What does "just disappears" mean on the Taylor CYA test? Completely invisible, or so faded you have to strain to see it?

I'm going to harbor freight this afternoon to get a pump to do some draining.

Should I go for a half drain all at once or do a couple of feet, fill, and retest. I can be patient about this and want to do it right.



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Doing a partial drain-->refill-->drain again, while time consuming and perhaps more costly is the safest way if you're in the least bit unsure of a liner or pool plaster not being wet.
Others have done half drained pools without problems too. What's your comfort level?
 

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After draining and refilling about 24" of water and adding 3 gallons bleach 1 hour ago.

d9ca3e0aee08a4eb15737a5d5b8ab8b5.jpg


Looking good.

Next up is overnight test.


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To preempt the question, the app is called boximize. It isn't pool specific. It lets you set up your own database using whatever fields you'd like. You can export to excel if you want. Free. I'm unaffiliated, but it gets the job done.


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DallasSocFan said:
To preempt the question, the app is called boximize. It isn't pool specific. It lets you set up your own database using whatever fields you'd like. You can export to excel if you want. Free. I'm unaffiliated, but it gets the job done.


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Click to expand...
looks neat! Do they have a desktop version or only iOS or Droid?
 

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