I have installed a new Jandy JXi400 natural gas heater (copper heater core). I have installed bypass valving so that I can take the heater off-line when doing adjustments to my water chemistry (SLAMing, PH, Hardness, etc) so that the unbalanced water does not pass through the heater core. I currently use trichlor tablets for chlorination, which I would like to get away from due to the adverse effects of increasing CYA. Lowering pool levels and refilling is massively expensive in the Charlotte, NC area. I have a few questions regarding the heater suggested guidelines for water chemistry and some of the suggestions made by your pool calculator.
1) Heater manufacturer states max. FC = 5ppm pools, 10ppm spas. Why the difference? Is it because spas water is usually set for higher temperatures? I notice on some threads that contributors state that they would never let their FC get below 5 and prefer around 10, which, the way I read it, voids the heater warranty and can possibly cause heater core damage. Not to mention not real good for ANYTHING that gets in the pool (kids, dogs, frogs, algae, etc...not real concerned about the last two). Clorox even states in their guidelines that this is a violation of federal law because the product is being misused. Also, if CYA is above say 50, then you would have to violate the heater manufacturer's suggested/within warranty guidelines. Thoughts/suggestions? I really don't care about warranties (not worth the paper they're written on), I just don't want to purposely damage the heater core. My CYA is currently high (80) so my FC should be >6ppm, above the 5 suggested by the heater mfg. ugh!
2) The Liquidator liquid chlorine feed system, which I am considering as an alternative to trichlor tabs, feeds chlorine into the pump suction line "before the strainer basket". This chlorinated water then passes through the pump, then the filter, then through the heater. I can only guess that the chlorine level of this water is elevated above the heater manufacturer's specs. In fact, some heater manufacturers state that all chlorine generating equipment be located downstream of the heater with check valves between the chlorinator and the heater. Along the same lines you always see "never put chlorine tabs in the skimmer" because all that highly chlorinated water passes through and can damage your equipment.
3) SWG is out, because many manufacturers (including Jandy) prohibit SWG chlorine in their units.
Any thoughts or suggestions on how I can switch to liquid chlorine and avoid the above pitfalls, other than chlorine injection pumps ($$$) or walking around the pool everyday adding chlorine?