Green/Cloudy since shocking

May 13, 2015
15
Cartersville, GA
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Need help please! I'm tired of pool stores and variable test results after traveling to them! So glad I found this site:eek:

FCl 0
TCl 0.15
PH 7.6
ALK 97
CH 221
CYA 86 (was at 150 - been draining and refilling, attempted pool store test again yesterday but their machine was down and used test strips)
**My test kit arrived today so I was able to test these #'s myself

Pool turned cloudy almost immediately after shocking back in early April. I attempted the "Green To Clean" product with shocking and greenish, cloudiness never resolved.

I have Cal-hypo and dichlor - which I found out shocking with dichlor like I was will raise the CYA!!

I know I need to get chlorine in the pool, and bring my salt levels up. I was waiting until I could confirm my CYA in an acceptable range to try and avoid wasting chemicals.
 
Welcome to TFP! CYA level is good enough to get going, it will come down with rain, splashout, etc. Use bleach to chlorinate until the SWG is up and running. 0 FC is never the right number no matter what you are waiting on. With the water clouding algae is right around the corner and you could need a SLAM.

Here is a Test Kit Comparison, I recommend ordering a TF100 test kit from tftestkits.net, that's what I have.

Here are some intro Pool School articles to read.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here is the Water Balance for your SWCG pool.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
 
I just finished with the PoolMath - when looking at the FC of now and target, do I just fill in the target level with the "Shock" suggested level to get my chlorine requirements?
If that's the case, I need 8 gallons of the concentrated bleach.
 
Looks about right, but that's just to REACH SLAM target level. You gotta maintain it until you pass all 3 criteria for completing the SLAM. Leave the SWG off during SLAM.
 
OK, Added my bleach last night just to get my Cl up. This morning the tests read:

FC high
TC high
PH 8
TA 81
CH 200
CYA 85

** I use the LaMotte ColorQ Pro 7 test kit, thus the "high" readings for Cl (meter reads 0-10ppm)

So I will now lower my Ph and continue the SLAM.
 
OK, Added my bleach last night just to get my Cl up. This morning the tests read:

FC high
TC high
PH 8
TA 81
CH 200
CYA 85

** I use the LaMotte ColorQ Pro 7 test kit, thus the "high" readings for Cl (meter reads 0-10ppm)

So I will now lower my Ph and continue the SLAM.
We generally do not recommend the ColorQ due to the limitation on the FC and reports that after a while readings become unreliable. Here is a comparison between the ColorQ and drop based testing which we do recommend. Drop based testing with Taylor reagents is extremely accurate and repeatable.

I'm sorry to say that with high CYA you can not complete a SLAM according to our guidelines due to the FC 10 limitation. A reading of "HI" just won't work when you need accuracy to say 35, which is your shock level if you have CYA in the high 80's.

As to your pH, the results of pH tests are generally not accurate when FC is above 10. That is why the the directions on SLAMing your pool indicate to adjust pH down to 7.2 before you start to add chlorine.

If you can return the ColorQ I would recomend it and pick up one of the recommended test kits. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
 
I will see if I can return the ColorQ then. I had already added the bleach last night before it got dark and came in to read that the pH should be dropped to 7.2. I just scrambled to get to the store to get some bleach before they closed and get back with a little day light left.
 
Unless you are getting a killer deal at whatever store you are buying bleach from, I see that Cartersville has a 24hr Walmart. Any 8.25% bleach will do.
 

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Unable to return it...so, until I can get the FAS/DPD test, I've been diluting the sample with tap water and using a multiplier to keep me in ball park. Had an overnight loss from 33ppm to 19ppm, water is still cloudy with green tint.
The water had actually cleared up quite a bit (still green, but I could see the bottom) until I brushed it down good. Is this a normal part of the process or do I also have a filtration issue?
 
Today FCl 29.48 TCl 33.48 after adding more bleach last night. The Cl level is staying fairly close, only requiring a gallon or less since the first days.
I have to add water today as the level has now dropped just below the skimmers (filtering with most pull from bottom drains right now). So my CYA may drop a bit more.
Pool has improved, much paler green now. Somewhat clear unless I start stirring up the water. Using Polaris to help with that and brushing.
After reading older posts, if this cloudiness that keeps occurring is from pollen/dust, would the sand filter not catch that or is it too find for sand?
 
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