I am trying to post pic from phone not working. Here's the issue. The hopper pool Crete is bad in places. Is wet n squishy. We are installing deep well point. Do I just shop vac out wet floor n repair or do I add lime to wet floor before repair? Also how to get mud off floor? Just use square shovel? Is 4 bags pool krete enough for repair? Can I use silicone caulk at wall joints under duct tape? Can I also caulk seem of wall floor where floor looks good? Planning rust restore to walls. Do I need to paint over that with rust paint? Biggest problem is the wet and squishy floor. Please see pic in reply.
pool reno wet verm.
- Thread starter dpease
- Start date
I would really appreciate advice. These are the questions only a builder can answer. Did I post in wrong section? Under construction seems appropriate. Are there any users that build on here?
n240sxguy
Well-known member
I honestly have no idea about how to help. Hopefully someone on here with experience will chime in. I think you've got it in the right spot. I'm a big DIY'er, but a complete pool renovation is beyond the scope of anything I would attempt. I would do the rust removal to save myself money, and can do anything on the hydraulic and electrical side, but the bottom and liner I would leave to someone who does that professionally if for no other reason than the liability if it gets screwed up. I wouldn't want to spend the money on the liner and risk me screwing it up because I had never done it before.
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Get all the mud you can out. Is it groundwater or was the liner leaking??
You say that you are installing a well point, but the pic I see says that you had water running down and not coming from the bottom..it is hard to tell from one pic.
As far as the mud, get as much out as possible, then use a portland cement and sand mix for the bottom. I use about 1/2 and 1/2. It will be able to be trowled, but still harden enough not to stick to the liner. Make sure you get back to the depth that you want for your liner.
You can mix it loose to level in the bottom, and thick to trowel on the slopes and sides.
Usually, duct tape alone is enough to seal on the walls. I would get some kind of epoxy on the walls to prevent more rust.
You say that you are installing a well point, but the pic I see says that you had water running down and not coming from the bottom..it is hard to tell from one pic.
As far as the mud, get as much out as possible, then use a portland cement and sand mix for the bottom. I use about 1/2 and 1/2. It will be able to be trowled, but still harden enough not to stick to the liner. Make sure you get back to the depth that you want for your liner.
You can mix it loose to level in the bottom, and thick to trowel on the slopes and sides.
Usually, duct tape alone is enough to seal on the walls. I would get some kind of epoxy on the walls to prevent more rust.
Reply
We plan a well point at deep end on side with water. It looks as if the ground water is penetrating at wall floor seem. WE have mole crickets coming in at steel wall seems where the duct tape is off. I already scrapped and wire brushed walls for rust. I removed old duct tape to do this. This is when I saw all the mole crickets. I bought onyx rust restore for walls. I can then cover with epoxy paint. Thanks for the recommendation. But the floor and corner of slope has wet squishy vermiculite. Just like side floor slope in pic. It has broken down - not smooth on top. I am afraid if I shop vac up the verm that the whole floor will suck up into shop vac. I just didnt want to make it worse than it already is. I will post another pic of floor and walls with vermiculte issues. I am thankful for any advice at this point.
Those pics are first looking from wall straight down second across left side where hopper wall has crumbled away. Most concerning is floor where the verm is wet in squishy in shallow end. You can see the water running down slope at wall seem.