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Thread: Columbiasfinest ...

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    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Columbiasfinest ...

    Split by moderator from HERE. Sorry that this now appears out of context, but the advice was likely to cause confusion and discussion in the original thread. jblizzle

    Start off by brushing all the green to the deep end.
    The best thing to do when adding chlorine to a salt water pool, is to shock the pool with chlorine granules. Dilute them, and add it in the deep end.
    It is hard to know exactly what is wrong with your chems without a water sample, but if the pool is green, I'm willing to bet there is no chlorine. If I were you, I would go ahead and brush it all to the deep end, and shock it with 6 pounds spread around the deep end. After a day or so, it should be clear enough to vacuum on waste. One thing about having a salt system, is you have to maintain your stabilizer. Chlorine sticks add this, but you never use tabs/sticks with a salt system, so you have to add the stabilizer yourself. Adding chlorine through the skimmer will damage your salt cell.
    After you get your water sample back, I would be happy to help you get your pool clear and balanced.

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    Re: Getting rid of pool store.....help

    Split by moderator from HERE due to more questionable advice. jblizzle

    I don't see how your chlorine could be locked with your stabilizer at 50. That is a good reading. If your chlorine is that low, I would think you have an issue with metals or phosphates, but the fact that your pH is so low, with your alkalinity being so high, would make me think you have added some other chems to your pool besides chlorine and baking soda, or def have a lot of solids in your water. Definitely backwash as much as possible. You need a more detailed water reading. All the debris could have def caused your pool to have phosphates. You need to test for total dissolved solids. When you say your test turned purple, that indicates you have copper or iron in your water. You need to get a good test kit if you aren't going to use the pool store. There is a hardness reagent you can use to test the calcium hardness. This could also be causing your water to be acidic. Low calcium hardness will make your water very acidic. Please let us know what your pool looks like (clear, algae, cloudy, etc...), and we will be able to walk you through balancing your pool without having to add so many chemicals.

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    SW Louisiana
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    Re: Just shock your pool with chlorine granules

    There are problems with this advice, first you fail to say what type of granular chlorine as dichlor, trichlor, and cal-hypo are all available as granular products. Use of dichlor or trichlor will add CYA stabilizer in addition to the FC, as well as lower pH, the big concern here is usually the CYA which can easily lead to over stabilization, particularly in the quantities needed to clear a green swamp. This only leaves cal-hypo, which raises both FC and CH, High CH can be an ongoing battle for many pool owners particularly those in the southwestern US, where high CH fill water combined with high evaporation rates and often water restrictions, leave pool owners on a constant battle to slow the inevitably raising CH levels in their pools, and this course of action would just speed up that process. In addition to this concern even those that have low CH fill water, should generally not use cal-hypo when fighting an algae bloom as it can cloud the water which confuses the issue of trying to clear the algae. So we get back with our well tested advise of sticking with liquid chlorine / bleach for clearing pools of algae since it neither adds CYA or CH to the pool and is for all practical purposes pH neutral.
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