OK, this is really shoddy....

[ewkearns]

My flow regulator on the Liquidator leaked from the first day and it just seemed to get worse. So, I bought another. Same problem, ***?

OK, had time to disassemble the first regulator, which I assumed was cracked. It had about 10 rounds of teflon tape and was driven all the way in.

These things are destined to leak because the barbed fitting is a Male NPT... a threaded fitting that seals due to the fact it is tapered. The Female thread in the regulator, itself, is NOT a tapered fitting and, baring some special configuration, appears to be an OCFS, O-Ring Face Seal, which is a straight thread.

Without proper fittings from the manufacturer, these things will NEVER work right.

 

[Patrick_B]

Not good, not good....

 

[stev32k]

If you are talking about the flow valve a much better option is a pinch valve. It fits on the outside of the tube and squeezes the tube down to regulate flow. There are no connections to leak and they are cheap - maybe $8 or $10. U.S. plastics sells them on the internet. I had the same problem with my liquidator and the pinch valve solved it.

 

[laprjns]

I believe ewkerns is talking about the flow indicator, as shown here. I had the same problem with mine and found that I don't need it. I also use a pinch valve to adjust the flow.

 

[stev32k]

All of HASA's flow meters leak when you receive them. To stop the leaks remove the fittings then coat the threads with a layer of teflon thread sealer then use three of four wraps of teflon thread tape on top of the thread sealer. Wrap the tape in a counter clock wise direction. Allow 12 - 24 hours for the teflon sealer to set before before screwing the fitting into the flow meter. Screw the fittings into the flow meter but be careful not to get it too tight or you can break the plastic. On the barbed fitting slather on a thick layer of silicon grease then push the tube on and secure it with a hose clamp.

When you do that the fittings will not leak.