Dead Dolphin

Isaac-1

0
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 10, 2010
6,696
SW Louisiana
Well after less than 2 years my Dolphin Diagnostic Pro is dead (something in the motor box is dead), so I have broke down and went with an Aquabot Turbo T as a replacement, at least you can buy replacement parts for the Aquabot. I am not too upset about the Dolphin as I bought it cheap off ebay (new old stock in box, discontinued model, cosmetic damage to power box.... for only about $300), the Aquabot Turbo T was also an ebay find, although not as cheap at $650, new no box. Now I just need to keep an eye out for a working Dolphin Diagnostic DC motor box as everything else is still in good shape, maybe I will find a deal on one before the Aquabot eventually dies.

Any Turbo T owners out there that want to offer any tips or words of advice.

Ike
 
I hate to hear that. I hate to hear any robot lasting less than 3 years, NOS or not!

I love the robot technology and ease of using it, but Im still a bit (well, a LOT) shy about spending lots of money on one. Mine is the bottom of the ladder Dolphin Nautilus. My dictionary says the 600 it cost aint cheap, but I figure if I can cross my fingers and get 3 years outta it, I will be happy. So far, Im happy as a lark with it.

Good luck with your Aquabot!
 
Ike,

Did you actually removed the motor box and test it, or are you assuming it is bad because the power supply is good? I only ask, because I had the input power connector (where the cable goes into the motor box) go bad, which made it appear that the problem was the motor box. Water had gotten in the connector and had corroded one of the pins in half. I found that they sell replacement connectors/pins on line. Replacing the connector fixed the problem.

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe, I was working off the assumption that the power box is good, but I will check that, it appears that a pin spanner is needed to unscrew the port, is that correct?

Patrick_B, I have not, but I will, this is one of the older body style units which Dolphin required be sent back in to them for repair though.
 
Ike,

I just used a pair of needle nose pliers to unscrew what turns out to be a cover. Under the cover is a rubber plug or seal which the wires go through. It took some force and effort to get the corroded connector apart. Not sure where exactly, but someone has a U-tube video showing the disassembly process. At that point I knew the connector was bad, so I really couldn't make it any worse. Once I got it a part I assumed I was going to have to jury rig some type of fix, but to my surprise I found several places sell a package, I think it was less than $10, which includes the connector, three new pins, a new rubber plug, and the cap or cover.
Jim R.
 
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