Faulty run capacitor?

[mk1]

How do I tell if my run capacitor is the reason my Hayward super I I is starting then stopping after an hour or so? I took it out and it looks fine.

Thanks in advance

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Date on it is June 2010

 

[epro05]

Is the motor running hot? If so, the thermal switch may be tripping.

I had that problem last year. The motor would get too hot to touch. I ended up replacing the motor.

 

[mk1]

It does get hot.....

 

[epro05]

In my case, when the thermal switch tripped, the motor would restart by itself about an hour later after it cooled down (if the timer was still providing voltage to the motor). Have you observed that?

FYI, my motor would get so hot I couldn't leave my finger on it for more than a 1/10 of a second, otherwise it would burn my finger.

 

[Donldson]

The cap is for the initial starting current. When it goes bad the motor won't start withoug assistance, but will run and continue running if given a manual spin. Epro05 is right, it sounds much more like a thermal cutout.

From my HTC One via Tapatalk

 

[mk1]

I was under the impression that there were both start and run capacitors on these? And that the hump on the top contained the run capacitor?

I will try the capacitor first and the motor second.

Do I have to un-plumb the pump to replace the motor?

Thanks

what makes a pump motor run too hot? I can move the impeller by hand.

 

[mas985]

Some motors have just a start capacitor (CS), some have a start and run capacitor (CSCR), some just have a run capacity (PSC) and some none at all. It depends on the motor and manufacture.

A motor runs hot when the load exceeds the rated load. Usually, that is caused by bad bearings which is probably the issue and not the capacitor.

 

[JamesW]

Is the motor original to the pump, or is it a replacement? If it's a replacement, it might be undersized for the impeller.

 

[mk1]

Thanks everyone. It sounds quite loud when it is running. I am guessing it is the bearings. The motor is original to the pump. I can always return the capacitor I guess. New parts arrive tomorrow. So we will see.

 

[epro05]

mk1,
You do not have to de-plumb to pump to replace the motor. If you do end up replacing the motor, be sure to also buy the proper GoKit for your pump (shaft seal, o-rings, gaskets and lubricant).

Here are some video links for motor replacement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCNKCYvRSBY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpJLp3oWDGU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy1meV5Y4iQ

And here is some information that may be helpful.

http://www.inyopools.com/parts_hayward_super_ii_ez_find_chart_impeller_diffuser_seal_plate_.aspx

And here is a link to a GoKit. There is a GoKit 1 and a GoKit 2. Make sure you get the right one. I also have a superpump II and I needed GoKit 2.

http://www.inyopools.com/Products/00500022000634.htm

When you have the motor out, check the diffuser and impeller part numbers and make sure they are correct for your setup. When I replaced my motor I found out that someone previously had replaced the motor but it was not sized properly for my impeller/diffuser, so I fixed that while I had the motor out.

I had never replaced a pool pump motor before, the videos made it clear how to do it and I had no problems with it.


Good Luck

 

[mk1]

Already swapped out....super easy!
Much quieter....bbearings I am sure.

 

[JamesW]