Can someone recommend a heater for a 24' AGP please?

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My 100k warms 24' roughly 1 degree/hr. The gas line was the most expensive part for us because it had to go 120'.

Yep - bigger heater warms faster with more gas, smaller runs longer with less gas = same gas either way
 
tbird2340 said:
So is it all relative? A bigger heater will use more gas but run less as it will heat faster? Whereas the smaller heater will use less gas but take longer to heat up?
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No, they will use the same amount of gas per degree of temp rise. Bigger will get you there faster, smaller will get you there slower. This is all within reason of course. too small and you may not overcome temp loss due to ambient conditions.
 
There are two important factors for how much a heater will heat your pool: 1) The amount of water in your pool and 2) The efficiency of your heater. For example, the efficiency on my Pentair Mastertemp 250 is 84%, which translates to about 210K BTU.

So, what you want to look at is how much do you want to heat it per hour and, as said before, what can you afford? The formula for how much heat is:

(BTU * Efficiency) / (Gallons * 8.33) = Fahrenheit Degrees / Hour

For BTU, use the full number (ie 250,000) and for Efficiency, use the decimal (0.84 instead 84%). The above formula will yield the amount of degrees per hour the chosen size heater will heat your pool.

If you use my mastertemp numbers and your gallons, you get about 1.8 degrees per hour. That's typically not an absolute, but the formula has always been really good for me.
 

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Well, there are two other factors to consider when purchasing a heater. first is what everyone's opinion is of what is best and what is not. There has been volumes written on this forum about which heater is best and hands down Raypack always seems to come out on top. The other factor to look for is who can service it in your area. We have two pool stores in my town and neither one of them is worth a hoot when it comes to servicing what they sell. These things run great for the first couple years then the problems start.
 
tbird2340 said:
But is the price right? 200K for $1400 shipped.. Seemed like a good price. I don't know what low nox or cupro-nickel even are.. :)
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You don't need LoNox or cupro-nickle as I don't believe OH is like CA where you have to use LoNox.

Buy a Raypak 206 and you will be good to go on an above ground pool. Also invest in a solar blanket if you don't own one already.
 
So I purchased the Hayward H200FDN and have a question..

This will be my first year opening a pool (just had it installed last year).. I'm going to be hard plumbing my pool and planned on doing it once I got the heater and then I will open the pool..

However, I was just reading that the water should be testing in the correct levels before having water go through the heater.. I have no idea what my levels will be and don't want to ruin the heater, but I also don't want to start hard plumbing, then can't connect the heater because the water isn't good enough, and then come back to finishing the hard plumbing once the water is good and I can have water flow through it..

What should I do here?

Thanks
 
The only thing that could damage the heater is if the pH was VERY low ... and even then it takes time. The odds of the pH being crazy low are pretty ... low ;)

Plumb it all up, circulate for 30 minutes, test everything and and adjust as needed. At worst, the water would not be balanced for an hour.

Or, plumb in a bypass that many people with heaters do.
 
Can someone give me some guidance on powering this thing? I really don't want to have to involve an electrician.. Stupid me thought it was just going to have a plug..

Manual here

GENERAL INFORMATION :
Wiring connections must be made as shown in the wiring diagram found inside the heater cabinet, and as shown in Figure 23. The heater must include a definite means of grounding and bonding. There is a ground lug inside the control box and a bonding lug on the side of the heater.

MAIN POWER :WARNING- Power connections supplied to the heater must be in accordance with National Electric Code (NEC) and local electric codes. The NEC contains no standards requiring Ground-Fault Interruption protection (via GFI Circuit Breaker or otherwise) of “Fixed” or “Stationary” equipment, under article 680: Swimming Pools, Fountains, & Similar Installations.

BONDING :
CAUTION- This heater must be connected to a bonding grid with a solid copper conductor wire gauge 8 AWG or larger. All Hayward heaters are designed for copper conductors only. The National Electrical Code (NEC), and most other codes require that all metallic components of a pool structure, including reinforcing steel, metal fittings and above ground equipment, be bonded together with a solid copper conductor wire gauge 8 AWG or larger. The heater, along with pumps and other pool equipment must be connected to this bonding grid. A bonding lug is provided on the side of the heater to ensure that this requirement is met.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:
The heater is equipped with a hot surface ignition control system that automatically lights the burners. An external power supply is required to power the control system. The heater is shipped from the factory wired for use with 240VAC, 60 Hz field power supply. To convert the heater to 120VAC, 60 Hz operation remove the 240VAC voltage selector jumper from the ignition control board and replace it with the 120VAC jumper. These jumpers are tie-wrapped together and are located on the fuse board. See Figure 25 for location of the fuse board. All wiring connections to the heater must be made in accordance with the latest edition of the National Electrical Code ANSI/NFPA 70, unless local code requirements specify otherwise. In Canada, follow CSA C22.1 Canadian Electrical Code, Part 1.The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes or, in the absence of local codes, with National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA 70. The heater may be installed with the electrical service and
remote control entering the heater cabinet on either the left or right sides of the heater. The heater is equipped with (4) openings for electrical entry. Any unused openings must be plugged (these are supplied). Field power
wiring connections are to be made to the terminal block located in the upper compartment inside the junction box (see Figure 22). The heater has 2 junction boxes (one on each side of the heater). Only one junction box
should be used for field power wiring.
Click to expand...
 
gqjeff said:
You'll need to buy a cord and just wire it in. Should be color coordinated. The power is located on either side so just choose what side you wanna use.
Click to expand...

Yea, I just popped off the cover and it looks pretty simple. Change it to the correct voltage and hard wire it up..

I was more worried / confused about the "bonding".. I've never seen anyone do that and I've asked a lot of people who have pools and they've never heard of it / done it..

Asked my pool store and they said it's not necessary either..

Thanks
 

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