Hi. Total newb here. I'm trying to wrap my head around some things. I bought a house with a neglected pool. Trying to clean it up without draining. Made a little progress as pool was black and is now greenish. I replaced the sand in the filter as well. My question is in regards to slam. My test showed CC as .07 and FC as .06. So in my mind, to slam, I would have a target chlorine of .7 (10x CC). That just sounds wrong so with the numbers I'm set at a target of 10. But, in my brain, as FC is used it becomes CC. So would I not have to continually raise my target level?
SLAMing
- Thread starter Dannyp02908
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. POINT 07 and POINT 06 don't mean anything unless you are saying both those values are less than <1>. Your SLAM value will be determined by your CYA level.
Welcome to the forum Danny,
Yes, those levels of FC will not do much of anything...even 10.0 FC. You need to have some Cya in the water, and anywhere close to the correct amount will negate 10 FC. Tell us about your kit/testing and we can go from there. Next stop should be Pool School and a start with that in the ABC's. You can find that, and how to SLAM your pool in my signature links. Let us know, and how we can help. Good luck on your SLAM!
Yes, those levels of FC will not do much of anything...even 10.0 FC. You need to have some Cya in the water, and anywhere close to the correct amount will negate 10 FC. Tell us about your kit/testing and we can go from there. Next stop should be Pool School and a start with that in the ABC's. You can find that, and how to SLAM your pool in my signature links. Let us know, and how we can help. Good luck on your SLAM!
Welcome to TFP! As mentioned we need test results to give good advice.
FC level is determined by CYA level on the Chlorine CYA Chart
Please update your signature info as described here
Here are a couple of articles in Pool School to get you started.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals needed to maintain your pool.
And use PoolMath to determine how much to add.
Since your pool is swampy you are going to have to SLAM your pool following this process for SLAMing Your Pool.
But, first thing you need to do is order a fantastic test kit. I prefer the TF100 from tftestkits.net, get the XL version.
FC level is determined by CYA level on the Chlorine CYA Chart
Please update your signature info as described here
Here are a couple of articles in Pool School to get you started.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals needed to maintain your pool.
And use PoolMath to determine how much to add.
Since your pool is swampy you are going to have to SLAM your pool following this process for SLAMing Your Pool.
But, first thing you need to do is order a fantastic test kit. I prefer the TF100 from tftestkits.net, get the XL version.
Yes, both read less than 1. Total chlorine is .13. Test results below.
TC - .13
FC - .06
CC - .07
Alk - 33
PH - 7.4
CH - 105
CYA - 3
Pool is 15x4 round AG. Around 5000 gallons.
Pool is green. Like I said, it was black.
But I was curious to how the shock is going to work if my FC is constantly converted to CC and then I need more FC to combat the higher CC (10x CC). I know my alk and CYA are low. But pool store said worry about those after clearing the pool. Maybe wrong? Pool seems cloudy and green. A lot better than originally, but not anything I want to climb into.
TC - .13
FC - .06
CC - .07
Alk - 33
PH - 7.4
CH - 105
CYA - 3
Pool is 15x4 round AG. Around 5000 gallons.
Pool is green. Like I said, it was black.
But I was curious to how the shock is going to work if my FC is constantly converted to CC and then I need more FC to combat the higher CC (10x CC). I know my alk and CYA are low. But pool store said worry about those after clearing the pool. Maybe wrong? Pool seems cloudy and green. A lot better than originally, but not anything I want to climb into.
What test kit are you using? Those numbers make no sense.
Forget the 10x CC non-sense. It is not true.
Just keep adding FC to target your shock level and eventually the CC will drop and the FC will start to hold. Then follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. But you need one of the Recommended Test Kits to do it correctly.
Forget the 10x CC non-sense. It is not true.
Just keep adding FC to target your shock level and eventually the CC will drop and the FC will start to hold. Then follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. But you need one of the Recommended Test Kits to do it correctly.
Test was an electronic test at pool store. Not a national chain like leslies, a mom and pop shop.
What should my target be? I thought the target for shock level was 10x CC?
What should my target be? I thought the target for shock level was 10x CC?
I'm a little surprised that no one has jumped on here and told you to forget the pool store test yet!
Here's what the pro's on this site are going to tell you:
1. Drop the pool store and get one of the recommended test kits. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison
2. No need to reinvent the wheel in this post. Read all of the articles that pooldv listed in Post #5 above.
3. Click on Pool School at the top and READ EVERYTHING!
Your target FC during SLAM depends on your CYA level. It has nothing to do with CC.
Here's what the pro's on this site are going to tell you:
1. Drop the pool store and get one of the recommended test kits. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison
2. No need to reinvent the wheel in this post. Read all of the articles that pooldv listed in Post #5 above.
3. Click on Pool School at the top and READ EVERYTHING!
Your target FC during SLAM depends on your CYA level. It has nothing to do with CC.
I certainly do not trust electronic pool testers. You need a kit to do the SLAM.
We do not "shock" like pool stores tell you to do. We have a process that you need to follow. The FC level you need to maintain is listed in the FC/CYA Chart.
We do not "shock" like pool stores tell you to do. We have a process that you need to follow. The FC level you need to maintain is listed in the FC/CYA Chart.
ok, im not understanding the slam process. should I stop doing chlorine until the rest of chems are in order (alk, ch, cya, etc)?
At this point we have no idea what any of your levels are because those results are suspect. So no way to know what you should adjust first.
What do you not understand about the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process?
Might help if your question was a little more specific.
What do you not understand about the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process?
Might help if your question was a little more specific.
I think it is time to go back up to post #5 and do a little reading.
At this point, I am just going to throw in the towel. I don't have the time to devote nor the patience to deal with it. Grass is easier and the beach is free. Thank you for the suggestions but I guess this pool thing isn't for me.
I have felt your pain. Kept getting cloudy water outbreak after cloudy water out break. My next step was a dozer and a big pile of dirt. The great folks here saved her from the wrecking ball.
I know I am beating a dead horse here but the first thing that you need to do is invest a few dollars in a test kit. Either the kit you can get here or a Taylor 2006 that you can get anywhere. I got mine via Amazon.
Trust me when I tell you that the test kit will save you tons of money over getting "pool stored" with chemicals for as long as you have the pool.
Hope you are able to take a step back and gather your thoughts and go back at it.
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I tried to step back. I live 20 minutes from misquamicut beach. This is to much to figure out over what's basically a kiddie pool.
Bet the pool would be warmer 
If it is a kiddie pool, drain it and start over following this: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
If it is a kiddie pool, drain it and start over following this: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
That works. You have to decide what is worth the time to devote to it.
Sorry it didn't work out.
With this type of pool without a doubt your best and quickest bet is to simply dump the water. It will likely cost you around $20 to refill and you'll be up and running in a weekend. Follow the Guide for Seasonal Pools and enjoy what you got. If it turns green........time to dump again.