Slamming Stalled - CYA Question

[Sallie]

I have come a long way, but my CYA is 60, and I have a question. I added less stabilizer than was called for, thank goodness. I was aiming for 30. Anyway, based on the chart, it looks like I should take the chlorine level to 24. Won't that bleach out my vinyl liner? I know my only other option is to drain some water to lower CYA. Please answer so I can get this slam over with. I have been using CYA of 50 and corresponding chlorine levels. I looked at the test wrong, stupid me!

 

[tim5055]

No, it will not bleach your liner. Take it to he shock level for your CYA.

Nice day here in the midlands, just got out of the pool......

 

[Azgirl71]

Pour bleach in slowly in front of the return and your liner will be fine.

 

[Sallie]

Now, everything is better but not holding overnight and water has been milky for days. So I have the following questions: 1. How low does FC need to be for me to get a good ph reading? Could that be my problem - that the ph is off? 1. How often can I add de to the skimmer? I follow the directions, and the psi rises 1 after one application of 1/4 cup. Thien usually within a few minutes, it's up 5 psi. Should I be doing this during the slamming process? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I have spent a ton on bleach, testing supplies, etc., this year, and I see the look on my husband's face each time I drag out more bleach.

 

[Azgirl71]

If you are not holding overnight then you are not done. FC has to be below 10 to get a accurate PH reading, but don't worry about that right now. Keep your FC up at shock level. dE is doing as it is supposed to, backwash when your pressure rises and re add DE. It will help clear the water. You will notice it will take longer to rise as the water become clearer.

 

[Richard320]

Ignore pH until you're done. That's why why we say adjust pH before you start.

You have a sand filter, so you have the option of just turning the valve to recirculate. That will bypass the filter. Once you get a good kill going, you could then vacuum up the crud and send it out the waste pipe, and then return to filtering. Or skip the DE for now until it starts clearing up and when you can vaguely see the drain, then go with the DE to get the fine stuff out.

I suspect you're still spending less than you would at the pool store trying to clear the mess. And the bright side is, now that you know what to do, you might not ever have to do this again.