Looking to install a SWG. How straight forward will the plumbing be?

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fields_g

Well-known member
Dec 25, 2014
171
Rockville, MD
I currently have a pretty straight forward plumbing system. 2" piping, being sized to 1.5" to enter/exit equipment. The easiest place to put the SWG would be the diagonal pipe in the foreground. Are SWG's required to be installed in a certain orientation? How about the flow switch and a proper amount of straight piping before it?

I'm also looking at upgrading the single speed Superpump to a variable speed pump. I am considering a A.O. Smith ECM27CU dry end replacement, but if the plumbing for the SWG is going to be involved, there is really no reason to only replace half the pump at similar prices.


 
If the flow switch is before the cell you need a minimum 12 inches of straight pipe before a 90 (elbow). If you install the flow switch after the cell, you can add the cell in your measurement meeting the 12 inch minimum guideline. You would install the SWG on the outgoing run from the filter. If you had a heater, the swg would be installed after the heater.
 
Although very close to each other, the plumbing work for the SWG and the plumbing work for replacing the pump have no overlap, and be done/or not do completely separately from each other.

Most brands of SWG will be fine on the sloped pipe, but a few brands require horizontal mounting.
 
I own a Circupool SI-30 +, according to my manual the cell can be installed either horizontal or vertical so, diagonal should be no problem. +1 what Donny said, the flow switch must be installed at least 12" after any elbows. Installing it after the cell will make sure you meet that requirement. However, they stress that the cell & flow switch must be installed after all other equipment. Installing a booster pump after your cell could cause cell or switch problems.
 

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Aaahhh... just got my si-45 delivered. I was told that the cell was about 12" long. But after assembling the cell and the unions, it totalled 16".... 1" more than the 15" of pipe I have to work with. I'm now trying to figure out the easiest way to gain 1+" and not add too much extra plumbing resistance.
 
Or get rid of the angled pipe and just go up vertically all the way to the top and use a 90 over toward the filter pipe.

Either way you are going to have to redo all the pipe coming out of the filter.
 
I thought of doing it both those ways. I was even wondering if it would be beneficial to re-orientate the multivalve, but that would be significant work. Since "horizontal orientation is ideal" according tto the manufacturer, I might go with the increase the diagonal approach. Also, the return pipe entering the ground is a bit crooked away from the pad. The vertical mount might draw more attention to this defect. I think it's time to buy PVC, joints, primer, glue, and of course loads of salt.
 

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