Should I lower my CYA down to lets say 70 from 100 where it currently is ?? Could I just set the SWG at a higher % because of the CYA level of 100 ??
CYA is currently at 100 for a SWG IG pool
- Thread starter Donny
- Start date
If you maintain adequate minimum FC levels for the CYA, I see no problem. Unless you get algae. Poolmath suggests minimum FC of 5 for a SWG pool with 100 CYA. I'd aim a bit higher, but below 10. That way your pH test will still be valid.
Remember, 100 is the limit of the CYA test. Have you done a diluted test to verify that is is 100?
You mentioned in another post using test strips. Are you still using them?
You mentioned in another post using test strips. Are you still using them?
The aquachek strips I have go up to 300 for CYA/Stabilizer. I do have the T100 kit I purchased here though. Also, I should point out the water temp is around 50*
Here are instructions for extended testing, http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/24188-Extended-Test-Kit-Directions
Use the TF100, throw away the strips.
You need a valid CYA test before you do anything
You need a valid CYA test before you do anything
Thanks guys. I will compare the two recent tests. I must say though, I have done this in the past and the Aquachek has been very very close with my TF100 test results. Granted, the strips can not measure in between the 100 and 150 mark on the CYA, I do see your point. What if I'm at 130 ??? OK, I will use the TF100 now. Thx again.
UPDATE: completed test with TF100 as recommended, CYA is at 110.
UPDATE: completed test with TF100 as recommended, CYA is at 110.
You did a diluted test and came up with 55? The CYA test doesn't go up to 110.
*******On Edit
I was on my iPhone, so it was hard to type. If the CYA test is at 100 or above you need to do a second diluted test. If it's just a "little" above 100 on the test you can't equate that to any number.
*******On Edit
I was on my iPhone, so it was hard to type. If the CYA test is at 100 or above you need to do a second diluted test. If it's just a "little" above 100 on the test you can't equate that to any number.
Your cell recommends a level of 60-80 with 80 recommended. Unless you're having problems, you can probably let it run where it is and let the cya fall naturally. Especially once you get kids splashing in the pool early in the season, or if you've have a lot of rain in your area, you may see it fall on its own. Just keep the FC a bit higher for a bit.
That's the route I'd take.
That's the route I'd take.
Yes exactly, it seemed to be slightly over 100. I had to ask myself "is it 100 or over 100" several times. OK, off to take another test !!
*****UPDATE: 50 on the diluted test.
Yea, when it gets around 100 you start wondering.....
So, 100 it is!
It will be up,to you as to weather you dump water and get it where it should be or stay extra vigilant and keep,the FC where it needs to be for 100 and ride it down with splash out, rain and smaller water replacements. Toping off evaporation does not count because the CYA does not evaporate. With luck 3 - 4ppm degrades per month, plus splashout may get you there in a season.
Thanks for the help Tim. I'm going to drain some water and get the CYA down a little. I do prefer the levels be balanced as per recommendations here. Thx again!
not a problem! We wouldn't be here if we didn't want to help.
Asking questions is how you learn, so ask away.....
Operating your pool at CYA over 80 is problematic.
There are certainly some seasoned veterans who monitor their pools closely who can get away with it but the potential issues are simply not worth it.
Just like we say in Pool School, 60-80 CYA if you have an SWG is the suggested value. (Somewhere around 40-50 if you chlorinate manually)
There are certainly some seasoned veterans who monitor their pools closely who can get away with it but the potential issues are simply not worth it.
Just like we say in Pool School, 60-80 CYA if you have an SWG is the suggested value. (Somewhere around 40-50 if you chlorinate manually)
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