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Thread: Valve questions

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    Valve questions

    I'm adding a pool heater and going to take the opportunity to re plumb my equipment and upgrade my valves. Currently I have a Haywood DE filter with a push pull vale and cheap potable water ball valves on the skimmer and main drain returns. I'm thinking I will put a 3 way between the skimmer, drain and main pump and a multiport on the filter.

    Questions:
    Do I need valves before or after the heater?
    Do I need a specific multiport to fit my filter or are they all common size?
    I see different price levels of multiport. Is this a quality difference or is there anything else I should be looking for?

    Thanks
    Tom,
    22k IG plaster pool, Haywood DE6020 Pro Grid DE filer
    Century Centurion 2 HP single speed with Challenger Pentair front housing replacement. Polaris 280 and Polaris PB4-60 pump. Stenner Injection
    Pool is probably 1980-1990 vintage. Concrete deck

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Valve questions

    You do not need valves on the heater, although many people like having a bypass and a way to close off the heater if repairs are required.

    You need to find the specific multi-port for you filter. If you look in the manual for your filter, it will list the parts numbers for the backwash valves. I am not sure if there are "generic" versions of the multi-ports that are compatible or not.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: Valve questions

    Thank you. I have a follow up question. On the suction side I have 2" pvc coming from my main drain and 1 1/2" coming from the skimmer. The return to the pool is 1 1/2" Currently everything on the pad is plumbed with 1 1/2" pvc with reducers on the pump, filter and main drain. When I redo it would I get better flow if I used 2" pipe? On one hand I'm not sure I'll get any benefit since my return is only 1 1/2" and that's the bottle neck. On the other it might help flow through the equipment, elbows and valves. Here is a diagram of how I'm going top set it up. Any opinions would be appreciated.

    pool setup.JPG
    Tom,
    22k IG plaster pool, Haywood DE6020 Pro Grid DE filer
    Century Centurion 2 HP single speed with Challenger Pentair front housing replacement. Polaris 280 and Polaris PB4-60 pump. Stenner Injection
    Pool is probably 1980-1990 vintage. Concrete deck

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Valve questions

    Why is there a check valve on the suction line? That is generally not recommended except for extreme circumstances.

    I would certainly use 2" pipe for everything that you touch and reduce when needed. In water flow there is not really a "bottleneck" per se ... everything adds head loss and reduces flow. So improve things where you can.

    That diagram looks fine (besides the suction check valve). I recommend you make the center port on the 3-way valve be the common pipe ... so middle goes to the pump and middle comes from the filter.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: Valve questions

    I read that a check valve before the pump would prevent water from draining back into the pool when I clean the filter basket. That's why I was going to add it. Would it be detrimental or just not needed?
    Tom,
    22k IG plaster pool, Haywood DE6020 Pro Grid DE filer
    Century Centurion 2 HP single speed with Challenger Pentair front housing replacement. Polaris 280 and Polaris PB4-60 pump. Stenner Injection
    Pool is probably 1980-1990 vintage. Concrete deck

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Valve questions

    Water will still drain back into the pool when the pump strainer basket is open, even with the check valve. It will just go the other way.

    Any check valve is always a little detrimental. If you get a high quality valve, only a little detrimental.

    The check valve is certainly not needed.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Valve questions

    My PB put a check valve before the pump, the same as your diagram, and it did prevent the water from draining back speeding up the time to prime, but after a while it stopped holding as well. It also finds a way of holding onto stringy objects that may be flowing in the pipes.

    Depending on your 3way before the pump, you can rotate that to close off the single input to the pump and accomplish the same thing. I have two Jandy 3way valves before the pump and the PB broke off the tab to allowing it to rotate 360 degrees to allow that.
    Gary
    21k gal SW, IG Gunite PebbleSheen, 1HP Jandy, Jandy 340 filter, Polaris 280, 17' fiberglass slide w/ 2HP pump.

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    Re: Valve questions

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion View Post
    Water will still drain back into the pool when the pump strainer basket is open, even with the check valve. It will just go the other way.

    Any check valve is always a little detrimental. If you get a high quality valve, only a little detrimental.

    The check valve is certainly not needed.
    I see. I'll just use one by the heater then. I was going to go with this one because it had good reviews and was cheap.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    However, your comment about quality has me worried. Should I use a higher end one?


    Quote Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
    Depending on your 3way before the pump, you can rotate that to close off the single input to the pump and accomplish the same thing. I have two Jandy 3way valves before the pump and the PB broke off the tab to allowing it to rotate 360 degrees to allow that.
    Good point. Thanks
    Tom,
    22k IG plaster pool, Haywood DE6020 Pro Grid DE filer
    Century Centurion 2 HP single speed with Challenger Pentair front housing replacement. Polaris 280 and Polaris PB4-60 pump. Stenner Injection
    Pool is probably 1980-1990 vintage. Concrete deck

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    Re: Valve questions

    I'm another one for not having a check valve. Mostly, they seem to be more trouble than the benefit they provide.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Valve questions

    Quote Originally Posted by pharpe View Post
    However, your comment about quality has me worried. Should I use a higher end one?
    I like the Jandy valves:
    http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/Pro...eck-Valve.aspx

    You can see if there is any junk stuck inside (not likely after the filter though) and you can always swap out flapper if it gets worn and get a drop in flow gauge from duraleigh.
    Gary
    21k gal SW, IG Gunite PebbleSheen, 1HP Jandy, Jandy 340 filter, Polaris 280, 17' fiberglass slide w/ 2HP pump.

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Valve questions

    Yeah, those jandy check valves are fancy!
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Valve questions

    If you are going to use check valves, definitely get the Jandy type. But, I would not put one in front of the pump unless your pump is significantly higher than the pool water.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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